Adamw

Correct, it will run direct spark with no sync but 50/50 chance of starting. MAP sync will be a good option.

That almost sounds like a backfeed through an aux output. Have any of the devices connected to aux outputs been changed, or perhaps any power supply changes to aux devices? Standard aux devices for this ecu are as follows: Tacho Turbo re-circ Wastegate NC Fuel pump relay Purge Canister CE light

The 10pin header is JTAG, the 12pin socket pads I think are for special coms - Kline/LIN etc. For E-throttle you can use Aux 1&2 with our external E-throttle module or add flying leads to make aux 9/10 available which wouldnt need the external module. Modifying yourself will void the warranty, but I can give you instructions if you wish.

Correct, Monsoon hardware V3.0 and above have knock control built in. I will get that storm website page fixed. The knock input pin is shared with DI4, so you can either have knock or an extra DI, not both together.

Is it the old G4, not a G4+? Does it still have the microswitch? Would the microswitch be open for the whole shift or would it just be a momentary trigger to indicate the start of a shift?

correct

I would guess when engine is at TDC 1 the "1T" marks would line up with both pink lines I have drawn. For TDC2 the 2T marks would line up with both pink lines. Most likely you can only see one of these references through the inspection hole in the cover. I think the trigger offset will be about -45 or 315. Does it have a cam sensor? You have ignition set to direct spark but trigger 2 sync mode is set to none. Since this would be an odd fire engine, the engine configuration would need the Custom TDC enabled and Custom TDC points could be 0,180 or 0,540.

Its better but still quite a mess. Something else must be wrong, its missing the ground or something. You can almost see a ghost of the trigger 1 waveform in trigger 2 so possibly the sensor negative is connected to trig 2 rather than ground or something?

It will need the tune checked before you give it a hard time. G4X is quite different than G4. It will be close enough to run, but I wouldnt be confident the fuel tune will not need tweaks.

Yep that caught it pretty well. In the pic below to the left of the pink box I have drawn you can see TP sub and main traces (purple & light blue) are sitting almost smack on top of each other - this is how they should be. Inside that pink box you can see TP sub - the light blue line starts to drift away from TP main, TP main remains close to target (orange). Since the RPM didnt change when the TP sub signal initailly drifted up I think we can assume that the TP main is correct (ie throttle hasnt moved), so it is the TP sub signal that is telling lies. Since there are no dropouts or spikes like you would commonly see with a loose connection, I would say this is more likely the sensor (throttle body) that is failing.

Yeah I would have expected it to nearly run like that. It sounds like it has a very weak spark or something. I have seen similar for example dumb coils without an ignitor wired direct to the ecu low current output. The coils will spark fine with ignition test when outside of the cyl, but when inside the combustion chamber under cyl pressure they no longer spark. Have you tried a timing light on on plug when cranking?

Have you got a picture of the crankshaft? Is it 180°, 270° or 360° firing angles?

The connector has 4 pins but if you look at the loom there is only 2 wires connected. Pin 1 & 2 are the magnet coil.

G- is the usual toyota convention for the trigger ground - Pin 39 on that ecu. Although either of the two grounds you have marked would do perfectly fine.

Yes, the Monsoon doesnt have highside drives so the aux outputs can only ground a relay. Your most recent proposal would be ok, otherwise you would have to use a second relay for the key start trigger.

The Thunder is the only G4+ that can do dual E-throttle. ITB's with cable or a single E-throttle actuator would be ok. Yes the Bosch throttle bodies would be no drama too.

Yeah, something odd going on here. The ECU response now looks quite good to me so there is not much more that can be done to increase torque quickly. Is it a stock fan? The battery voltage drops from 14.0V to 12.3V when the fan turns on which seems like a fair bit of load. Does the idle valve actually work? Does it idle at 1500RPM when cold?

Map below should be somewhere close. Use the "test PWM" function on each aux to confirm they are wired/assigned to the correct cam solenoid. Also, check your DI's, you had DI1 set to LH intake but that cam should be wired to trig 2 so I have changed DI1 to RH intake. I changed DI2 to LH Exh and DI4 to RH exh. Basic trigger and VVT set up.pclr

Yes that is looking into the connection on the coil. I suspect 3 wire coils would work either way around anyhow since the 3rd pin probably means the secondary ground is not connected to the primary 12V as it is in most 2 wire coils. But if yours are wired different to this it wouldnt hurt to swap as a test. That pic is out of the Facet catalog so I have good confidence in it.

Have you changed the electronic throttle to cable throttle? Connect LH intake cam sensor to Trigger 2. Connect other 3 cam sensors to DI 1-3. Assign them to the correct cam type in the software. Connect VVT solenoids to any aux 1-8, assign the correct cam type in the software. 250Hz should work. VVT control set up needs to use the the User Defined mode, instructions for set up are in the help file. The ignition coils have ignitors built in as far as I know so can be connected direct to the ecu.

Are all the cam sensors 3 pin or do you have 3 pin on the intake and 2 pin on the exhaust?

If it runs on wasted spark with the offset at 94, then it can only be 94 or -266. So when you say spark on the correct cylinders, do you mean ign test 1 gives a spark on cyl 1, ign 2 test gives a spark on cyl 2 etc? Do you have the coils pined as below?

Ok, a few things I would change. Your AC fan is coming on at the same time as the main fan. Change your fan settings to this: Next, >Idle speed control>Fan step, change this to 2.0%. It goes a bit lean when the RPM drops and MAP increases, try increasing these cells to about 70 in fuel table 1: Idle ignition gets disabled when the MAP hits the lockout. The idle ign table might be a bit too aggressive also, can you try these changes below in green. We can add fan status to the idle ign if we need to but try this first:

All looks ok to me. The RPM looks realistic, there is dwell being commanded and no cuts so there should be a spark. Do the coils still have 12V when cranking? The offset for an RB is usually around -85, so enter that to see if there are any signs of life.

What ECU do you have? Only some of them have high side drive aux outputs, generally they are low side drive so the ecu is controlling the ground side of the relay.