Adamw

Incorrect. Many 3 wire coils are dumb coils. Including most Ford and BMW. The 3rd wire is typically the HV ground for the secondary winding. The correct test is to measure resistance as the OP already did. A smart coil will have resistance >300ohm. A dumb coil will have resistance below 2ohm.

Sig 1&2 have to connect to either Aux 1&2 or Aux 3&4.

Suspect your max clamp of 30% isnt enough power to fully open the throttle. Can you set that to 90% and give it another try.

its a bit odd how the MAP goes dead flat when the fan turns on? This is where the lambda jumps off target also. Not really sure if this is a symptom or cause since the idle becomes much more stable at the same time. I wonder if the lambda is not reading right and it is actually much leaner than it shows. Can you try turning off CLL to see if it idles better.

To clear the fault codes hold the throttle down WOT while turning on ignition switch, then hold it there for 10sec. Provided the fault has been fixed, then the CE light being illuminated will have no impact on how it runs.

In Fuel Main settings if "Open loop lambda table" is set to on, then the lambda target is taken into account as part of the fuel equation - much like a modelled/VE type strategy. Ie You can change the target lambda later after tuning and the mixture should follow without needing to retune the fuel table. The target table will always be used for CLL target regardless of this option being on or off in wideband stoich mode.

Yeah, if it is <1ohm it is definitely a dumb coil. The reason for the no start would be with no ignitor the spark would be very weak. obviously just strong enough to ignite the high volatile starter fluid sometimes but not e85. The ignition system change going forward is proobably personal preference. 2 x decent 4 channel ignitors end up costing about the same as completely new smart coils in my experience so cost is a moot point. Stock coils with ignitors will probably be the neatest and require less wiring changes. The potential downside maybe the stock coils have less energy than the well proven LS coils (I have no experience with the Ford coils and would only be a consideration if high boost was intended in future). The LS coils will need a some more wires added and brackets and HT leads made.

You should only have one CAN channel set to CAN Lambda, this will handle up to 8 individual CAN lambdas. Turn off one of these and see if that solves it.

Moved to G4X forum. Your ECU setup is correct. You may notice the haltech help file shows "transmit DisplayLink", this is exactly the same as "Transmit Generic Dash" so that is ok. Unfortunately I dont have much experience with the Haltech dash to offer much help with that end - did you do the "load defaults" in the beginning? Did you do the wiring yourself or using Link or Haltech cables? Beaware the DTM4 pinout is different between Link & Haltech so that catches a few out.

I would start by putting something like 85 in all these cells so there no big jumps between cells that you drive through.

If the Boost source is set to MAP then the target will be MAP. This is the most common option as MAP is what determines the torque (cylinder pressure) and also the factor that you need to consider against engine or driveline component strength.

Yep, pretty much all Fords are dumb coils.

That doesnt look like you have removed the factory connector. Can you confirm you chopped this off and fitted a normal connector with no diodes inside?

I'll call in @Vaughan to see if he can take a look at the reason for no dwell. Im not in my office today so dont have all the info or gear I need to test what is going on. On first peak I thought the scope looks like it should be acceptable to me. Possibly trig 1 arming threshold is a bit too high, but lets see if Vaughan can test on the bench or has any other ideas. Otherwise I can take a closer look at the end of the day.

Can you explain what the problem is. What is the log "issues with vanos disconnected" showing? Can you give us a log with the vanos set up and attempting to work.

Looks like it is just way too rich to me, anywhere that you are on boost the lambda is 0.6-0.7, you will have trouble lighting that up. Around the area in your fuel table where the numbers jump from 83 to 110%.

You have just used up your allowance. Share it with google drive/Onedrive/dropbox/wetransfer or similar.

Have you attached the right log? In this log all the boost attempts where throttle is at 100% the MAP goes more than 10psi past target and that is with the ecu pulling 14% DC out. There are quite a few things I would change in your set up, but first, does it control ok & repeatably in open loop?

Dwell time is zero in that log so that would usually suggest the ecu is not happy about something related to the trigger and cant sync. So there would have been no spark when that log was taken. Can you do us a triggerscope while cranking. Make sure you hit the capture button while the engine is cranking, not before.

It would pay to get the wideband working before starting and log a hot start so you arent guessing. But I would say most likely it is too much fuel. With ethanol there is a massive difference in how much start enrichment you need between hot and cold.

Have you done the Cam angle test calibration? If so give us a log and the tune.

Sorry I cant really see the wiring connection well enough. Do you have 3 wires connected? And the connection is to the CAN1/RS232 port on the bottom PCB? Are you using a USB > serial adapter? Can you give us a picture of the windows device manager Com port section.

Not significantly as far as I have seen. The system doesnt even need to be particularly fast, most OEM CLL systems only oscillate at 5Hz or less. I think the main reason for narrowbands in older OEM's was cost - it was the cheapest way to achieve the objective. Most modern cars have changed to wideband sensor pre and post cat now as emissions output has gotten more stringent. A wideband has exactly the same narrowband nernst cell inside - it just has an oxygen pump cell working beside it at the same time, when you are at L=1 the oxygen pump is doing nothing.

Yeah you are going to struggle with that, too sensitive for good control - at least for typical levels of boost. 1psi for 2%DC is more typical. As far as I know the 46series is a higher flow version of the 45series so that may be the cause of some of your sensitivity - I cant say that with confidence though, I havent played with 4 port valves much. We specify ours with a high temp coil, the standard one that most supply is only rated to 50°C max.