Adamw

Best to use google drive or one drive etc. You can remove old attachments from old posts but then they arent there for anyone in the future that has a similar question/problem. The reason the allowance is quite tight is forum hosts change based on number of vistors to the site and the total data storage. And the data part is expensive. So we give each user enough allowance to get started and learn their way around etc, then when they need more they can use one of the many other sharing options.

Your tuner should be fired, what you are seeing is exactly the reason you cant use speed density with ITB's. It is a pretty basic tuning fundamental. You will need to start from scratch in Alpha N. Set up the TP axis with fine increments at small openings, then you can use bigger breakpoints as it opens more. I will attach a 20V fuel table that you can import as a starting point. VTC cams generally you only need to switch based on RPM - as all intake resonance is related purely to frequency. Generally the way to find the best switch points is to do two dyno ramps, one with VTC off for the whole run and one with VTC on for the whole run. Overlay the two run power or torque graphs and the best switch points are where the two lines cross. You can do a table if you wish but it is not normally needed, I suspect the factory was doing that only to reduce pumping losses at low loads for economy/emissions. 4AGE 20V ITB fuel table.lte

As Kenny suggests, it doesnt look like you have set the base timing. The offset is often around -100deg in SR20's, but varies a lot from engine to engine. However it is rarely zero. Yes, turn off fuel so it doesnt kick back and you should be able to get a timing flash on it. Start with the offset at -100 as that will likely put the mark somewhere you can see it. .

What device are you looking at?

If its a NA engine then yes TP on the fuel table and BAP as the load equation source will be the best option for fueling. However that is probably not going to help much, a bridgeport "jerking" is nothing out of the ordinary... With the new window cut into the combustion chamber this means the intake port never closes, usually the main port is significantly opened up and the exhaust port is raised at the same time, so you have massive overlap, usually coupled with a very low mass flywheel - so the same reason it pulses at idle is the reason it pulses when driving at low RPM. Even stock engines do the overun surge which is why they had fluid coupling flywheels etc on the luxury models. You may be able to tame it a little by running quite retarded ign timing in the RPM range it occurs, but you need to watch EGT as well.

I would say the most likely cause is the minimum voltage after the first tooth (green line) creeps up as RPM increases until it no longer crosses zero. I like your idea with welding the extra metal into the gap, but I suspect due it being a separate piece of metal the ferromagnetism doesnt work like a single piece of iron. I have seen weld repaired teeth completely mess up the signal. To bring the green line down lower in voltage what we need to do is reduce the maximum voltage as the first tooth is approaching the sensor (yellow line). You could try increasing air gap which will lower all voltages. I have doubts whether this will help much. You could try adding a resistor inline (series) with the trigger 1 wire. You will need to experiment with resistance value but I would say 3K-10K would be what I expect would help the most. You could try adding a resistor across the sensor +/- wires to apply some load. Again resistance value will need some experimentation but it will be lower in this case, more like 300ohm at a guess. Another option, you may be able to drill out the center of the OEM sensor and screw a hall sensor into it. Something like ZF GS100702 usually work ok with small 60-2 teeth (they need a stronger pull up resistor for high tooth count).

Its still a long way off target in some areas though, I wouldnt really call that "working as expected", not even really acceptable. You can use the file compare function to see the difference between the two maps. Still needs PID tuning.

Unlikely anything related to an update since the problem only started after you had it apart. At a very wild guess it sounds like possibly the TPS isnt working, since that would mean overrun fuel cut would kick in when you try to rev it, but I would want to see a log to confirm.

I dont think the ground location will be too critical. The general idea is you want the return back to the power source via the shortest route. Most OEM's have the supressor grounded on the engine, but you could argue whether the source was actually the battery or Alternator when running at high load.

The tooth should ideally be about the same length as the pole diameter - up to about 1.5X the dia is generally ok. The pole diameter is shown in the pic below. The length of the gaps do not matter. A more detailed explanation is here: With a missing tooth crank wheel and sync mode set to Cam Pulse 1X, all the ecu does is checks if it saw a cam edge in the last crank rotation or not. Whether it saw a tooth or not it can determine which phase it is on from that.

Look in the log at the 3 E-throttle error accumulators, look for the problem where the error counter climbs to say higher than 10. It needs to reach 100 for the fault code to be reported.

What ECU are we talking about? A plug-in I assume?

The fault code is probably because you had the TPS sensor unplugged. ie it is not a current fault - it was only a fault when you had it unplugged.

4 & 6 are the TPS signals, these need to go to 2 separate AN volt inputs.

The manual is correct, Aux 1 goes to 106 & 113, it is used for the fuel pump controller in GTR's and VTC in RB25 models. No cars have both devices hence the same aux can be used. Aux 5 is not connected. You have Ign 7 & 8 and Aux 11 on the expansion loom you can use, or possibly aux 2 is free on the main header - GTS dont normally have fuel pump speed control.

It wont make any noise if you have it set to quiet mode in the software. It wont attempt to move until all the calibrations are done, there are no errtors, and it is happy with the signals from everything.

This is due to Bank 1 intake cam bouncing around, bank 2 isnt great either but is probably usable. I suspect you are going to need to use the custom PID option to get better control. Possibly oil is a different viscosity to recommended or something.

Im pretty sure I have tested that for someone else before and found it was a bug in the Aim software. I think it was solved by setting the ecu type in the dash software to "Vipec - CAN_BUS_BASE_LCC" instead of Link*** Try that and let me know if it doesnt work. We do have one of those dashes in house that I can test if required.

Black is motor -ve. Yellow is motor +ve. The rest looks correct. Do you have realistic voltages showing on the TP Sub and main AN Volt channels? With E-throttle turned off, do the TP voltages move when you move the throttle blade by hand? Have all your other fault codes gone now?

If pedal is 6 pin then 2 pins will be 5V and 2 will be grounds. You just splice these to the single 5V and ground wires.

Since they are an ITB engine you will find fuel tables will be quite different from engine to engine. I have attached one below from a 20V to give you the basic set up but it will need to be fully tuned. 4AGE 20V ITB fuel table.lte

The factory one should be ok. It should go between 12V and engine ground as close as possible to the coils - before the main power wire splits into 4.

You've already got AN Volt 3 and 5V and ground at the existing (cable) TPS sensor, So just run the Aux9/10 and say AN Volt 6 to the throttle for the DBW. Then for the pedal you can use 5V, Sensor ground, An volt 7 & An volt 9 from the expansion loom.

go to >fuel>fuel setup>injector test, then test each injector one at a time to confirm you can hear each one clicking. If they test ok then give us a log of it cranking.

With a distributor the engine will run with 4 possible trigger offsets - only one will be correct, but the engine will run regardless. With direct spark the engine will only run with the correct offset. If your timing light shows the correct timing when cranking, the most likely you are out by 360 deg - so the spark is at TDC exhaust stroke rather than TDC compression stroke. Try the offset at -293