Adamw

Ok, apparently our original test car when we designed the TT plugin was a AJQ, so it should work. Can you do a triggerscope when cranking and attach that and your map. >ECU Controls>triggerscope. Click capture while the engine is cranking.

The traction control system is wheel slip based so needs speed sensors. Accelerometer is not very useful for traction control as acceleration drops when you have wheel slip, it also drops in many normal operating cconditions where this is no slip such as going down a hill or changing gear.

Where about's are you in the world? Note the odd series 4/5 "toggle" trailing ignitor/coil is not supported, you will also have to change to individual trailing coils. from memory you can use FD trailing coils or go for something aftermarket.

Drop the numbers in the idle base position table down to about 4% - this is how much the throttle is open for idle. You have ~40% in there now. Also in idle actuator settings change start up offset to 0% - this is how much extra the throttle is held open for start up, change the integral gain to 0.05 and change the max clamp to 8%. That should be closer.

I think the Audi V8 VVT mode is only set up for 2 intake cams. You should be able to use Holden v6 vvt mode which does 4 cams with the same pattern on the trigger wheels. Worst case would be the User Defined VVT mode will do it, but more manual set up is required. LH Intake sensor to trig 2, RH intake to DI1, LH Exhaust to DI2, RH exhaust to DI3. Pull-ups on, falling edge. VVT solenoids connected to Aux 1-4.

What is the engine code in this model?

I done a brief sniff in a local JDM facelift BL/P and the CAN bus looked the same as our "WRX11" stream. I didnt get to drive the car though, just sitting there idling it had all the same ID's, it didnt have the DCCD messages. So I cant give any guarantees everything will work. The Kurofune doesnt have that stream as it is only been added to G4X. Possibly our WRX11 ECU would be a closer option when released since that has 4 AVCS cams, the WRX107 ecu only has two cams catered for in its pinout. Maybe a couple of months away.

Something to do with the VTC by the looks. MAP sensor gets very noisy at the same time - possibly cam timing incorrect?

Yes, that should do it, except set the tooth count to 135 if thats what you have. Ignition mode will have to be distributor for this type of trigger.

The ECU requires two independent sensors for safety - there is no way it can know if one has failed when there is only one. One option as you guessed is a "dual track" TPS such as the 6 wire variohm one that Link sell. This would be the best option for you. As a workaround to get you running with what you have initially (I would not drive it very far this way) you could wire the single sensor output to two separate analog inputs so the ECU thinks it has two sensors connected. There are possibly some junk yard options also if budget is tight. There are APS sensors from some Hondas and old Mercs which are quite adaptable (something like a typical TPS sensor design)

Does it have cable throttle or E-throttle? Does it have the stepper idle valve still and is it wired for ECU hold power functionality?

Let me get a bit more info off the engineers how this trigger mode works, im not sure if it uses raw MAP sensor voltage or if it converts it to a pressure drop first and what type of pressure/voltage drop it requires to satisfy the sync test. Might be a day or two as they are neck deep in it at the moment.

It requires an input shaft speed sensor. The settings for it are in >chassis and body>transmission.

A backfire would suggest a trigger issue rather than a fuel issue. Looking at the little info I have on the RZR triggermode I can see it uses the MAP sensor for sync. For MAP sync to work reliably the ECU needs to see the correct amount of MAP depression during cranking. Unfortunately I dont know these engines or vehicles well and we have little info in our library. I have looked at a couple of other RZR maps we have and it looks like the trigger offset is normally 0 on these engines, but in yours it is set at 270. This makes me think you are mis-syncing a lot of the time. Is the MAP sensor stock? Are they normally E-throttle stock? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

Although we have direct CAN keypad integration coming in the next software release, normally when you have a PDM the approach is to have the PDM controlling the keypad and handling all the logic such as toggle/increase/decrease & LED's etc. Then you only send the result of the button logic or function from the PDM to the ECU via CAN. Although it would be possible in theory, you generally dont want two devices in direct communication with the keypad as things like LED states and toggle logic etc could easily get out of sync if one booted up slightly faster than the other or the logic in each device was handled slightly differently for example. Since most of the buttons will be used in the PDM, in this case it will be best to have the PDM in charge of the keypad. I can help you with the CAN settings between the PDM and ecu when you need it.

The missing tooth location is now really not that critical on most engines. On very high compression, low inertia engines with small batteries like for example superbike engines where the crankshaft speed is very unstable during cranking it could be more important. G4X has an advanced missing tooth algorithm where it not only looks for the gap based on the teeth spacing before the gap it but it also does a further validation after the gap by comparing with the teeth spacing following the gap. So it is pretty fool proof and I havent yet seen it mis-detect a gap during cranking (was common in older ECU's). Ideal location missing tooth location for a 180deg crank with a 90deg V, I would go for about 45deg ATDC. Then it is outside the normal range of ignition timing on any cylinder and should be away from any TDC compression "slowdown" that happens at cranking speeds. As for trigger wheel, 36-1 or 36-2 is usually my go-to. I havent seen any noticeable increase in timing stability or precision (by eye) above that tooth count and to go higher tooth count the wheel tooth design and sensor selection becomes much more critical.

After that first run since there was knock detected at ~5500-6500, the knock trim table would have looked something like this: So the next time the engine passes through 5500-6500 this same trim would be applied. These values in this table will stay there until the engine has been operating in the same cell again with no knock detected, then it will start removing the retard. These tables are cleared back to zero also everytime the ecu is powered up. Whereas if the knock trim table had MAP on the Y axis, then only something like these 4 cells would be trimmed (below). This means you would only get retard in low load areas where it wouldnt affect performance. But still it would be better to fix the threshold so that it is not falsely detecting knock in the first place...

All of the Alfa TS engines fire both plugs at the same time - even the later 16v ones with the one central plug and the smaller one off to the side. Firing twin plugs with different timing is pretty rare due to the higher susceptibility of the colliding frame fronts to cause knock. It is usually only very large bore (95mm+) twin spark engines that delay one plug a little - typically only 1 or 2 degs.

You can see after you lifted off at the end of the first pull that your knock level went above the threshold from about 6250 to 5700RPM. This has resulted in a knock trim being applied between these RPM's. The knock trim gets written into the knock trim table so that when the engine next passes through this same RPM band it gets the same knock trim applied (whether it is knocking or not). Only after the engine has been operating in that RPM band for some time (Ign advance delay) without knock, then the ecu will start slowly removing the knock trim (ign advance rate). So a couple of things you could do to fix: Increase threshold in the high RPM/low MAP cells that it passes through after you lift off. I have highlighted the cells in the table below that are causing the problem. Add MAP or TP to the Y axis of the knock trim table so that the trim doesnt get applied to the same RPM regardless of load.

The 1K pull-up is preferable over the 4.6K and will give slightly better resolution at normal to maximum temps. The 4.6K would give slightly better resolution at very low temps, but most engine people arent concerned about low temp. Set calibration to "Std Bosch NTC".

The base map will give you the basic fuel and ignition settings. You will have to manually assign all the correct inputs and outputs to match your wiring. ie you need to set which aux output the fuel pump and fan are connected to, which inputs the TPS, MAP & temp sensors are connected to and set there correct calibrations etc.

You need to set Lambda 1 sensor control to "Link CAN"

Update your firmware, yours is very old so I suspect it doesnt have the AEM calibration included that you are trying to use. Logging is the same as G4, hit F8 to start and stop logging or click the words "PC Log = Off" at the top right of the screen. K key swaps between text and surface view on any table. See this video if you want to set it up with both text and graphic view side by side: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs Also, since you are new to the software I would suggest you go to >layout>load layout and choose the 1366 x 768 or the 1920 x 1080 layout depending whether you have an HD screen or not. These have many of the common pages already set up.

If DC is at 100% and boost is not increasing then it is either not capable of bleeding enough air or the exhaust manifold pressure is considerably higher than the spring pressure. You can confirm which by temporarily removing the hose from the wastegate and carefully opening throttle to see if higher boost can be achieved with no boost reference. Make sure boost cut is set to something safe when doing this. If you can get high boost this way then it is just the valve not flowing enough bleed, you may be able to fit a restrictor on the supply side.

I think you will be in bootloader mode if you dont have pin 4 grounded. From the manual: