Adamw

Its pretty common on RB's. Usually a combination of valve train resonance and backlash in the drive system. First things to check is cam belt tension, replace the oring on the CAS shaft, check splines are a tight fit, check the male spline is still tight in the camshaft (they are pressed in and can come loose). I have seen a good improvement in some with worn splines by filling the spline with sikaflex before assembly. In some cases with bigger cams and/or valve springs the cambelt can get a fair bit of whip in it at specific RPM's also. A low cost "fix" that most tuners use over here is the NZ wiring cam trigger kit. Although it is still mounted on the cam so not as good as a proper crank trigger they are a 15min fit and a very good improvement for the cost. Being cam mounted they are still exposed to the "cambelt whip", but the trigger wheel bolts directly to the cam sprocket so all other drive backlash is removed. Because of a lower tooth count the ecu "sees" less effect from the cambelt whip than it does from the 360 slots. The downside of this system is longer cranking for start up. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/

Wrong area by the sounds. Press the view button until you get to the GPS status page. Video below, our dash is an older one but Im pretty sure the 1.2 strada menu is mostly the same https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPyD7ykUMmecRAHaXG?e=OG3gdI

Yes, attach your tune and PDM config and a list of what you want over CAN

Any of the Nissan 360 modes should work, but "Nissan 360 Opto" as our GTR base map uses is the preferable mode. This mode uses every trigger 2 slot for sync so can sync within 120deg engine rotation (faster start up). The distributor and widest slot mode potentially need up to 720deg crank rotation to sync. Can you give us a triggerscope capture taken when cranking with the trigger mode set to Nissan 360 opto.

Shouldn’t matter for missing tooth mode, but set priority to trig 1

I’m not at a dash now, but if you push the view button (bottom right from memory) on the dash several times to cycle through your pages, after the last page you will reach the gps page. This will show status and how many satellites it can see etc.

Even with the pump running, the injectors arent squirting so there should be no fuel or spark. There will be a tiny bit of fuel injected from the pre-crank prime but should still be no spark. Correct, just start log, crank, then stop log & save.

The set up that vaughan gave should do exactly what you want. Will need a copy of your tune and a cranking log if it is still attempting to run with those settings. Do not mess with the crank sensor wiring, they need to remain shielded as much as possible to prevent interference. What model wrx & engine is it?

Yep, try offset at -120 with correct firing order.

VQ firing order is 123456. All you have done by changing to 456123 is shifted it 360deg later. So your trigger offset is wrong by 360deg.

Yes, it would have to be group/staged injection mode. Primary injectors get wired to Inj drives 1,3,5,7 in pairs. Pairing doesnt matter as they will all be fired together. Secondary injectors get wired in pairs to drives 2/4/6/8.

I can put it on the wish list but its priority will come down to how many have requested it. This is the first time I have ever seen it asked. It would be very unusual to have to tune a large 3D table for each cylinder, typically all cylinders are exposed to similar manifold designs, valve timing, compression ratios etc so VE is similar on all cylinders. Any differences due to air flow bias, cooling system bias or fuel system bias would generally be a taken care of with a fairly basic individual cylinder trim (single cell) or a trim covering a fairly broad range of operating conditions (ie 2D or a very basic 3D).

I do remeber helping a couple of guys set up 6.1 hemis with older G4+ ecu's in the past, I dont remember them being anything too tricky. I can probably steer you in the right direction with some info from you. What is the question?

Yeah looks like it. @tbase I can give you a beta software with the new gearshift strategy if you want. No help documentation done yet though.

Yes, there are instructions in the help file.

Yeah that is what I was suggesting. It will be fine without ECT as the idle valve can take care of the cold fast idle. Typically I only have ECT on the idle ign table if there is no idle valve.

Trig 2 sync mode should be set to cam pulse 1X. There is no sync parameter as far as I know. If both trig 1 & 2 signals say yes then at least the ecu is seeing teeth so should be happy.

You could possibly do something similar with the idle ign table at the same time, give it say 5deg more advance all over when in gear. The trouble with idle valve only is you dont see the full increase in torque from the extra air until a few engine cycles later. Using advance you can instantly increase the torque on the very next cylinder to fire.

No I cant think of any way to do that, it is a pretty unusual situation. The closest I could think of is you could enable dual channel closed loop lambda with each cyl as a "bank". Turn on long term trim and over time it will build up a correction table for each cylinder that you could then copy to the individual cyl trim tables. It is not instantaneous correction however, it takes time for the long term correction to achieve equilibrium. Probably best to just do a few logs of ramp runs and build the corrections from those.

Something very odd with that lever force trace. The gear lever force flatlines the whole time the cut is present. So I dont know if that is a firmware bug or something was corrupted in the log download or something else? But it does not look real to me. I havent seen it before with other gear shift logs. I think you will need to log AN Volt 7 raw voltage as well for the next test. There are some shifts where a cut hasnt occured due to a TPS lockout and the lever force shape looks more normal with no cut. Probably best to wait for the new firmware as it is not far away, has better gear shift control but will need the whole shift function re-tuned.

Yeah looks almost useable now. Trig 2 is hard to tell 100% if it is correct polarity or not but I think it is. It will likely get a better shape and once it runs so do another scope when running to confirm. Otherwise I expect you should have RPM and sync now.

Your Ignition switch on DI2 switches off as soon as it fires. You could just set Ign Sw to off and turn off ECU hold power function if it is not needed (usually only needed for stepper motor idle valves). Edit - added later: Actually it looks like you have the starter signal wired to DI2 - you see the battery voltage drops and recovers at the exact same time as DI 2 is active.

You can but probably dont even need a virtual aux. You could just put "gear" directly on the table.

Ah, unfortunately no, only the native name for those lists at present.

Outside of idle conditions the throttle will go to whatever is in your E-throttle target table + idle base pos + dashpot offset. If it went to zero during decel as soon as the RPM got low enough for idle control to engage there would be no air in the plenum and throttle is closed so the engine would stall as soon as you press the clutch in. You would normally have 0 right across the top row in your E-throttle target table, I noticed you have 3% above 2000rpm so that will hold it open even more.