Adamw

Do you have RPM showing in the software when cranking? Can you do a short data log of a start attempt.

Can Set the aux you have connected the fan relay to as below: Can you attach a photo of the trigger wheel. 60-2 on the cam doesnt sound like a good idea, the teeth would need to be tiny and the output voltage will be very low.

it appears the ecu is seeing the trigger ok as you see the fuel pump and tacho outputs turn on as soon as you start cranking in the video. The ECU hold power is working correctly in the video. What is the problem you are trying to solve? I will need a copy of the map and a log of it cranking to help much further. One problem I can see in your video is the MAP sensor on AN Volt 5 is showing 0.00V. This would likely mean no fuel is being injected. You need to check what is wrong there. The stock wrx MAP sensor is usually connected to AN Volt 1.

Yep good solution.

MAP is the main factor that effects engine combustion pressure (or torque/power) - which is usually the limiting factor that causes knock or mechanical engine failure. MGP or "boost" is irrelevant in many cases as at the same boost the load on the engine will vary with altitude or baro. For this reason, engine safeties and Closed loop boost control should also generally use MAP instead of MGP.

Read this page in the help file should answer most questions: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Fuel Setup > Multi Fuel > Multi Fuel Setup and Tuning Guide

Can you attach your tune. How is the fuel level sensor connected - have you added a pull-up resistor?

Note you also need to use the 1JZ trigger mode, you shouldnt be using the generic missing tooth mode. Of course it wont work until the trigger wheel is fixed though.

All 3 of those errors are related to the TPS sub sensor. Either it is not working, it hasnt been calibrated, or the error values are set incorrectly.

Can you confirm what you are trying to do - wiring a wire-in ECU into a WRX? What model ECU?

The trigger wheel on the crank is damaged. There is an extra tooth missing just before the gap. 1JZ should be 36-2, your scope is showing 36-1-2. I would say a tooth just in front of the gap is broken off. You might be able to confirm by pulling the sensor out and looking in the hole if it is accessible, otherwise the front is going to need to come apart. This is the tooth I reckon is broken (first pic I attached I marked the wrong side, I just updated pic) :

The trigger looks happy in the scope btw. Have you set the base timing?

The minimum PW on the datasheet is 1.4ms. The deadtime at 14V, 3bar is 1.029ms. So the correct "minimum effective PW" to enter in the Link software would be 1.4-1.029 = 0.37ms

Get him to at least send you a photo or something so we know what the real error is. We need something to work from.

Yeah the datasheet is using actual PW, not effective, you need to subtract the deadtime from those numbers. More likely just the VE numbers in the startup and idle areas are now too small since they were tuned when they were having no effect due to the min clamp. Cold start/crank enrichment etc shouldnt need to change.

After seeing the scope yesterday, Sync tooth 1 or 2 would be perfectly fine in this case.

No I wouldnt expect anything special is needed. CDI ignition on methanol cars makes USB comms less reliable but Ive never had any issues with inductive ignition.

No real elegant way to do it. No matter how you spin it I think one pin is always going to end up with a wire and 3 components connected so it is going to get crowded. I would probably just solder it all and seal under some SCL, it would end up pretty small. Could possibly use something like this: https://rkde.ecwid.com/RKDE-Inline-Board-p353957369 Note this is only needed with G4+ and older ecu's, with G4X you dont need the RC filter as it can be filtered with a math block instead.

The DIP switches on the board swap cam and crank sensor signals between two pins. If the DIP switches are set to Immob then crank sensor connects to B136-5 and cam connects to B136-6 If DIP switches are in "No Immob" then crank is B136-6 and cam is B136-5.

If it fires and runs for only a few seconds that usually means there is not enough fuel, there is only enough to run when the extra crank enrichment fuel is present so as soon as that stops the engine stops. Increase the master fuel value.

What ecu do you have? Is the boot mode error shown any time you try to connect to PC link and wont let you connect?

This warning means you are sitting on the Minimum effective PW that you have assigned. 1.4ms is wrong, it is typically somewhere around 0.2ms. Can you give me a link to the datasheet you got this from, I suspect they are quoting actual PW, not effective PW - which means you need to subtract deadtime from that quoted value.

Was the ECU showing something like -90% DC at the time?

There is no such thing as "analog error 3" as far as I remember. Can you attach a copy of your tune and a short log.

Your scope looks pretty good, I dont suspect the crank sensor at this stage. Actually I see you are on oldish firmware, it would be worth updating as there was a small change in the way some sync modes worked somewhere around 6.20. Base timing needs to be checked again after updating from your existing 6.19. 6.22 is the current version.