Adamw

That is normal, When -ve motor DC is commanded, Aux 10 will be at 100% high and Aux 9 will PWM control the other side. When +ve motor DC is commanded Aux 9 will be 100% high and Aux 10 will be PWM'd.

There is no lambda working at all in your log. The backfire at 4000RPM is whatever you have set up on GP Limit 2.

Id start by setting up ecu logging to record RPM and battery voltage at 200Hz, the crank for a few seconds. Download the log at that will show us what battery voltage is dropping to, and if ecu is completely shutting down or just disconnecting from USB.

Set a GP PWM output to CAN Aux and you should be able to do anything you want with it. You can also set frequency to a table and use that to output something different.

If you are on 6.22 firmware then you should only have to do the add all as I said above

If you are using a standard timing light without a advance dial on the back then it makes no difference whether it is wasted spark or not. If you are using a timing light with an advance dial then they usually have a wasted spark/2stroke mode or set it to zero, or you can just double the expected advance in 4 stroke mode.

Ok, ecu will still work, but you will be limited to wasted spark or distributor ignition and multipoint group injection with no cam sensor.

The Atom cant do E-throttle directly, the Xtreme or Fury are the only wire-in ECU's we have that do E-throttle. The Storm & Monsoon can do E-throttle with an external module, but the Monsoon doesnt really have enough IO to do much else and the Storm with external module will end up costing about the same as an Xtreme. So If you wanted to use one of the low cost ECU's the best option would probably be to convert to a cable operated throttle body. - You would need to consider options for adding an idle control valve as the E-throttle would have been used for that originally. The Atom and Monsoon have 4 injector drives and 4 Ignition drives, so for a 6 cyl, you would need to wire the coils in pairs for wasted spark ignition, and the injectors would be wired in pairs or 3's for multi-point group or possibly semi-sequential mode if the firing order allows it. The most important consideration is how much IO (inputs/outputs) you need. Write down a list of everything the ecu needs to measure and control and check the ecu has enough. Outputs Example: Fuel pump Fan Tacho AVLS solenoids If E-throttle you will also need these further outputs: Throttle motor + Throttle motor - E-throttle relay control Inputs Example: AN Temp Coolant temp Air temp AN Volt: TPS MAP sensor Wideband? If you go E-throttle you will need an extra 3 AN Volt inputs: TPS sub Pedal main Pedal sub. Any other sensor for engine protection or just logging/info such as fuel pressure or oil pressure will also need further AN Volt inputs.

Do a log of a cold start and warm up and look at what injector PW is doing. If the inj PW is flat and the mixture is changing significantly then it is likely the injector. Many of the 1600cc EV14 injectors where only designed for CNG and are absolutely useless with liquid fuel, the flow rate is highly sensitive to injector temperature.

The one on the left is not a V6 STI wheel, the 36-2-2-2 pattern was only used on the later Gen 2 engines - EJ205/EJ207 etc. Do you also have 2 teeth on front cam pulley?

End shift mode should be set to "Time" in your case. Digital input isnt a valid end shift unless start shift mode is also digital input. Basically your gear shift is being ended instantly after it is started.

Start with the calibration at 260 is usually in the ballpark for most JDM cars. Then you can compare speed displayed in the software to say a GPS app on your phone while driving and adjust the calibration so they match.

Go to >logging>set up logging>PC Logging, hit "Add All" at the bottom. This will add any new parameters to your log set that have been introduced since you have last hit Add All.

The RPM limit is functioning correctly in your log. The commanded limit was about 7500 due to the coolant temp being at 95°C. With your control range at 100RPM the limiter will start kicking in at 7400RPM. Although the log appears to show it coming in about 7150 & 7300 the 2nd time, this is just because there is filtering applied to the RPM value recorded in the log and the slowish PC logging rate will miss small spikes of RPM. If you log RPM at say 500Hz you will likely see more detail that reflects your expectation. As for the high boost misfire I would agree with Brad, this is usually a lack of ignition energy, as cylinder pressure increases you need higher voltage to jump the gap - or make the gap smaller.

This is explained in the help file article: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Auxiliary Output Wiring > Wiring Auxiliary Outputs > Avoiding Aux Output Back-feeding. This happens due to flywheeling diodes on the aux outputs, when the ECU is powered down there is a path from the aux pin through the diode back to the 14V rail. It happens in all aftermarket ECU's with flexible outputs. If you move your relay control to an ignition drive or injector drive then these dont have flywheeling diodes so wont back feed.

Maybe a firmware issue, I dont remember the version you are on very well. It would pay to update anyhow as there were some fixes to the lambda CAN stream in 6.20 or 6.21

The transmit errors on CAN 2 suggest there is no comms. Can you give us a pic of the connection to the ecu. That 4 pin plug is a bit of an odd one that Im not familiar with - are you sure the terminals are pushed all the way home and locked in? Is the sensor getting warm with Ign on?

As I said above look at cam position Vs target, if the cam position is following target it is working correctly. The duty cycle it needs to achieve the correct angle is irrelevant.

There are no tricks. The normal process is to remove #1 coil and connect an HT lead between the coil and plug and connect the timing light clamp to that. Most timing lights will also work just by holding the inductive clamp flat on top of the coil.

If the power supply is marginal or very noisy it will report odd errors. Do you have it powered from its own relay or are you using the alternative wiring with the capacitor added? Is it a GTR with battery in the trunk?

Yep the safe mode message is being displayed erroneously after the latest update, you can ignore it, the ecu is functioning as normal.

I searched google for "Mini MPI Flywheel" and most look like this example below from MED. This would be supported by the "Rover K Series 1L6 (14,3,13,2) trigger mode in G4X. A couple of sellers show a "MPI" flywheel with a 36-1-1 pattern, not sure if they have used an SPI picture tho. Does it have a cam sensor as well?

In that log the gear shift status is jumping straight from waiting to torque reintroduction. Im not sure if the logging is just too slow to capture the shift or if you have an odd gear shift setting that is causing the shift to end the instant it has started. Can you attach you tune.

The "ECU running in safe mode" on the firmware updater screen is a known problem at present. It is just being reported wrong, there is nothing actually wrong. Injector duty cycle fault value is in the main fuel settings. In example below you would get the warning if an Injector DC higher than 100% was commanded.

Not If you are only running E85 when tuning table 2. You really want to isolate any error due to blending from the primary fuel properties and table. If you want to be able to blend all the way to E100 then you should really tune on E100.