Adamw

Did you do the test above (oct 8th post) to confirm the sec/pri ratio? It is important to do that as the quoted flowrates rarely work out. Then adjust the staged accel fuel setting to get the transition better. I would expect it to be much higher than it currently is.

Both those log files attached are triggerscopes. The trigger 1 voltage is quite low and is skipping some teeth due to the arming threshold not being met in one of them. The "running 2T" scope looks better. I would change the "sync tooth" setting to about 10 so it is doing the sync test well away from that cam edge. With it at one you dont have much margin for the cam to move. Will need a PC log of it running to help any further.

Map: Connect PC Link to ECU, >file>save as. Log: Hit F8 key, you should see the red "PC Log =off" box at the top right of screen turn greeen. Start the engine (or attempt to start). Hit F8 again to stop the log. Then go to >logging>save log file as.

Double the values in your fuel table as a start, as we mentioned earlier the fuel table you have is not suitable for modelled mode. Also something a bit odd with your fuel pressure, it is sitting at zero until you start cranking so you wont get any pre-crank prime and crank enrichment will be effected.

Can you clarify what you mean by "will crank but not idle"? So there is no signs of combustion at all? Or does fire but never enough to run? Can you attach a copy of the tune and a log of it cranking.

I cant tell from that photo what position the jumper is in. If it is bridging the two pins then it is 2:3 mode. Usually if it is wrong there will be a lamp on the dash but still worth checking.

No need to change any wiring, the tps signal to the attessa is already handled as per the factory ecu. Do you have any warning lights on the dash on? Is your tps jumper on the bottom board set to 1:1 or 2:3?

The reason for multiple grounds is to handle the total current for all the lowside switching outputs. Aux outputs can do about 2A each, e-throttle about 4A, lambda about 3A, injector drives can do about 5A each. For most applications 2 main grounds is enough, if you have more than about 15A lowside devices I would consider more.

You do not need to assign a blip solenoid if you are using E-throttle for the blip. Use the Overrun Downshift Throttle Trim table to specify how much you want the throttle to open for the blip.

If there are still no signs of life with the addition of starter fluid then it would suggest there is a spark, timing or compression issue.

There is really no limit to the timing that can be commanded by the ecu, I think we allow something like up to 100ATDC. But the problem is distributors have a relatively small window of advance that they can work with. This is determined by how wide the tip of the rotor is and the spacing between each post in the cap. A V8 distributor is pretty much the most limited due to how close the posts are to each other. If your rotor tip is only 30deg wide for example, you cant command more than 30deg difference between your lowest possible timing (idle ignition) and your max advance (cruise). It would pay to check your rotor phasing as per the instructions below, you may only need to rotate the distributor a little to make it work over the timing values you wish to use.

I don’t think anyone would be able to answer that without buying one of each and setting up a fairly elaborate rig to test spark properties. Unlikely the same due to the form factor. Most modern coils from GDI engines however do give pretty decent performance.

I cant view your video. You are probably best to contact your dealer for help if you dont know how to do a log.

No, as far as I can see there are plenty in stock. They would usually ship out the same day the dealer places the order.

Connect the white wire to any AN Volt input.

Everything looks happy and in the ballpark I would expect in that log. Just as a test can you try adding say 50% to the engine capacity to see if that changes anything (will effectively give 50% more fuel). If it were me I would also try a squirt of starter fluid as that is a quick way to confirm if it is a fuel or spark issue.

No, that is a trigger scope. For a log press F8 to start recording, try starting the engine and then F8 again to stop recording. Then go to >Logging>save log file as. For the map, go to >file>save as.

Throttle looks fine in this log and your last one. If idle RPM is going too high then just reduce the start up step and idle base position.

The ignition table in the map you attached above looks very different than our S6 basemap ignition table. The S6 ignition table should be acceptable for start up and gentle driving. However, that wont prevent it from running. Still something wrong with your fuel if it only runs with the master at 2ms. I would expect it to be around 7ish for 1000cc injectors. Did you check fuel pressure? Is it possible the secondaries are wired to primaries or something? If you use the injector test function do the correct injectors fire? Can you do a log of a start attempt.

Fix the fuel table as I mentioned earlier. For logging, hit F8 to start recording, do a start attempt, hit F8 again to stop recoding, then go to >logging>save Log file as, then save it somewhere easy to find. How sure are you about the ignition timing? Your offset of -2 is unusual for a PRP trigger kit. The last one I done the offset was 300.

Attach a log of it cranking and the most recent tune file.

Can you attach your map, and a log of it cranking.

So did you try it as 4 bar as per this note?

Hmm, odd. Trigger looks good in all of those captures with plenty of margin from error. It must only be some intermittent occurrence that upsets things. Looking at your log again I notice the error mostly occurs when the ignition advance is very low - it was around 0deg in most of those errors. I wonder if it may be rotor phasing in the distributor causing the spark to jump to something other than the correct post. Can temporarily turn idle ignition control off for a short test and see if your trigger errors disappear with that disabled.

Set active drives to Inj 1-4. If you attach the map you have set up I will take a look.