Adamw

Is it reporting trigger errors?

The triggerscope shows nothing. Can you do another one, make sure you click the capture button when the engine is cranking or running, not before. I dont see much else that would cause two cylinders to be missing. Do the ITB's look synced? If you pull #4 coil out and run it with an old spark plug fitted where you can see it, is there a spark? You can also try increasing and decreasing the engine capacity setting which is an easy way to give it more or less fuel as a test to see if it is too lean or similar. Try it at say 2000cc to see if it makes any difference.

I cant really come up with any logic that would cause more advance than commanded. How are you testing this? How often does it happen? are you using a timing light with an advance function or just a static one?

I dont think you've got the trigger scope correctly. Can you try again, make sure you only click the capture button when the engine is turning, not before.

Have a read of these should clear it up: How to wire fuel level sensor: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/FAQ_Sensors_Fuel_level_100_eng.pdf How to set up Fuel level sensor: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/software/rs3/FAQ_RS3_Fuel_level_101_eng.pdf

You could achieve that by putting MAP on one axis of the throttle target table, or switch to a 2nd target table with smaller max opening when a certain MAP is exceeded. But be aware throttle is way too slow to act as engine protection. An ignition cut stops combustion instantly, closing the throttle you've still got full combustion pressure for probably 200ms or so - at 6000RPM that is 10 full engine cycles with excessive cylinder pressure. MAP limit should only be used to prevent damage if something goes wrong, it should not be hit during normal operation - if you are then you have a boost control issue.

Base timing should be set with it running in normal mode with ECU controlling timing (ie bypass pin at 8v and est commanding timing). When you remove the 8V it just fires a spark exactly on the edge of every tooth on the 3 tooth wheel. So that is purely controlled by the position of the wheel on the crank and from memory that is about 10BTDC. I see 1 potential problem in your map, the spark duration is set to 3ms, I would drop this to 1ms. This setting is used for distributor ignition where you have to charge the same coil say 6 times per cycle. With a distributor at high RPM you often run out of time for both a full spark duration and full dwell, so if the ecu knows the spark duration then it can reduce dwell so both fit in the available time. So this is potentially shortening your dwell in some cases.

The idle valve should be open all the time, otherwise the engine would stall when you close the throttle. Why are you worried about it being lean on decel, normally you would have the overrun fuel cut cutting all fuel on decel so that would be normal.

Duty cycle is closed loop and the ecu will give it whatever it needs to achieve the target cam angle. What you should be looking at is Inlet target Vs Inlet position.

Sorry, it looks like I might have steered you wrong there. I just had a look at the one on my car and it is a slightly different part number than the Link one, I got it from another company I was working for at the time and I assumed we both sold the same one. 2832-811-214-911-00 is what I have. The Link one is 2832-812-214-911-00. It is strange the manufacturers data sheet suggests the only difference between these 2 part numbers is 110deg Vs 120deg electrical angle and shows the center of the electrical range is with the flat aligned with the cable for both outputs but that looks wrong according to your drawing. I can say for sure on my one the 2 outputs are exactly opposite to each other over the same angle.

All sensor grounds are common, you can use as many or as little as you like.

Im not sure I understand the problem. The ECU uses Lambda, not AFR for all calculations. Lambda 1 = stoichiometric no mater what fuel is used. In traditional fuel equation the Stoichiometric Ratio setting in the software is only used to convert lambda into AFR for those who are more familiar with working in AFR units. You can use the "U" key to swap between AFR and lambda units in the target table. A lambda sensor is not a requirement for Modelled mode.

I would normally set the error high to 4.95v and error low to 0.05V, then the ECU can detect a failed or disconnected sensor and use a fail safe value.

Yes, you can send data from the dash to the ECU using the CAN output function.

The intake looks like it is following target quite well to me. Have you done the cam angle test calibration?

I would go with Motec's suggestion for the dwell as below. It looks like the values they have chosen is to achieve roughly a duty cycle of about 50%. Note however, if the dwell is too short or the EST signal is lost the module just defaults to bypass mode - this drops timing back to a fixed base value around 10deg. It shouldnt cause it to advance from its base value.

I think the initial cause was the trigger error which gave a large spike in RPM, the RPM limit then cut all fuel which stalled the engine. So the question is why did the headlights cause a trigger error... Really the only common circuit between headlights and trigger sensors is the ground so it would suggest there is a bad or intermittently bad ground somewhere which causes headlight current to pass through the ecu ground at times.

Can you do a triggerscope while cranking or idling and attach here.

That almost sounds like it is rotated past its range of travel. Is the flat lined up somewhere close to parallel with the bolt hole centers like pic below?

This should show 5V with the 5V pin bridged to the signal pin. Since it is only showing 1.21V suggests you have a wiring issue. Do you measure 5V at the TPS plug?

What value pull-up resistor did you use? Did you set the correct pull-up value in the sensor cal?

The J131 box is an ignitor - I think the GTiR originally had one a bit different to that but that should work. In your pic the center pin (green wire) should go to ground, the right pin (yellow) should go to ECU Ign 1 output, the left pin (black?) should go to the coil negative. Do you get no spark even using the ignition test function?

Unplug the vvt solenoid, turn the cam angle test on, rev engine, if cam angle is stable within a degree or 2 then polarity is correct, if cam angle drifts say more than 5deg then polarity i wrong. The arming threshold is not user adjustable on the DI's.

Depending on the age of the ecu it may have a 4bar or 7bar map sensor. Sounds like it is set to the wrong cal.