Adamw

A generic 4 cyl wiring diagram attached below. The only change would be you will only need to use Ign 1 & 2 for wasted spark and the "cam & crank" sensors would actually both be inside the distributor. If the wasted spark coil is a dumb one like from a ford or vauxhall then you will also need a two channel ignitor between the ecu and coil. The VW golf coil is a good wasted spark one that doesnt need a separate ignitor. Monsoon-4-Cyl-Generic.pdf

It is possible, but there may be better strategies. Is it boosted? Does it have an idle valve or any other device that ever allows air to bypass the throttle?

Each forum user gets a small upload allowance when they join. This would suggest yours has been used up. I dont really see anything obvious in the log. I have seen some GDI engines get air trapped in the system and it is quite difficult to get it out. The usually dont run when that happens though. Since your rail pressure is below the low pressure error value (3000kpa) for longer than the blank time (3s) then the pump will be disabled. You can try temporarily setting the low pressure error to say 10kpa so the pump doesnt disable so quickly and see if rail pressure comes right with a bit of running.

Attach a log and the tune.

This means the ecu is not shutting off when you do the power cycle. Possibly a back feed keeping it partially powered up. Try the firmware update again, but this time when you get to the power cycle step completely disconnect the battery or unplug the ecu for a few seconds before clicking ok.

Don’t guess, you need to set it using a timing light.

So if it runs, do you actually have a problem? Have you set dwell times correctly and confirmed there is near 12V at the coils when cranking?

Just to give a bit more info on this - the multiplex is a single wire system. N5 & N12 are effectively just 2 connections to the same bus, I suspect they just have one wire to the BCM and 1 to the cluster or similar.

Something like below will be a starting point. Set the "upshift digital input" to the same input as your clutch switch. Make sure you select "NO" when it asks you if you want to disconnect the clutch. This will just give you a cut for the whole time the clutch is down.

Use the Altezza base map that is in the PC Link base map folder.

Yeah, Im with vaughan here, I would set up E-throttle 1 with no outputs etc and use E-throttle 2 for the bypass. The only other catch I can think of is when an E-throttle is assigned, some lockouts such as for idle speed control use AP instead of TP. So you may have to get creative around that but for a marine application it will likely be easy to workaround.

Lambda target should use MAP or MGP as the load axis as you generally want to target richer mixtures as boost increases.

In your log we can see the ECU is commanding dwell, the RPM looks correct and there are no ignition cuts, so there should be a spark. The fact you have a weak spark when cranking suggests there may be a wiring problem. Have you confirmed there is 12V at the coil during cranking?

Yes the replacement for the Thunder will be the next generation ecu, whatever that is decided to be called. No it is not anywhere close to release. I dont think pinout or even connectors have been finalised yet.

On the models that had an immobilizer the AC clutch and Fuel pump pins may be swapped. Try changing Ignition drive 3 to fuel pump and Injector drive 5 to AC clutch.

Do you have the standard 4 plug evo 8 or the 3 plug "MR" ecu?

It should work. For opto mode the voltage must rise above 2.0V and fall below 1.5V to be considered valid. Yes it seems to work good. I even got a harley working reliably with it which had a MAP signal common to both cylinders and only 45deg difference between cylinders intake events. Yeah that should be fine provided the mechanical advance curve is not way different than the mapped advance in any of the normal operating conditions.

For Android your best bet is Realdash. You will need one of the realdash recommended CAN bus USB adapters. There is a realdash thread in the G4+ forum.

It looks like it is mostly happy in the log. Are you getting spark? Have you checked ignition timing?

That looks like it should work with the K20 VTC trigger mode. Can you do just a PC log of it cranking. The trigger scope likes like the engine is cranking very slowly, like a flat battery or bad starter wiring? Trigger offset should be near zero.

Triggering of clutch would mean you get a blip on upshifts as well. Probably best to do something similar to my post above on the 17 July. This uses clutch, brake and aps to trigger the blip. You could potentially just use clutch and APS.

It is just a function of using fuel cut, with port injection it is not a great method for torque reduction and you will never get a nice seemless gear shift using fuel cut. The reason is fuel is injected ~720deg before the combustion event. So since there is fuel already sitting in all of the ports waiting for the next intake event, even after you cut fuel you still get another full engine cycle at full power. Then to restore power the ecu first needs to wait until the next scheduled injection event, squirt the fuel into the port, then the next combustion event is still 360-720 deg away. At say 6000RPM, 720deg is 20ms so on a 4 cylinder just a single fuel cut event on a single cylinder means you have a 25% torque reduction lasting for at least 40ms. The torque reduction effect from fuel cut is just too granular and too slow for a nice progressive torque reintroduction.

Yes, it is ok/normal to leave it working all the time.

Example how to do that below.