Adamw

Possibly, what do you want to use to tell the ecu that you are going to perform a downshift?

Why arent you just using the built in fan function? There are no GP outputs set up in the map you attached except for the oxy heaters so cant really advise you what is wrong.

Attach a log and the tune.

Looks good to me. Note the pins labeled "Shield/Gnd" are effectively sensor ground also, so typically for example on the A plug I would have cam and crank sensor grounds and their shields all spliced together to a single wire connected to A7. Then similarly on the B plug I would have the knock shield and ground both connected to B17. Only mentioning as it is quite a tidy way to do it Vs trying to separate the grounds out. And in a similar train of thought to aerace_fab's comment above, I would typically also have a spares connector with say a couple of DI's, AN Volt inputs, a 5V and a 0V as it is not uncommon for users to decide they need something extra in future.

Attach a log and your tune.

In most cases you will get away without short PW data for an injector that size. For 1500cc and above on a typical size cylinder it is nice to have.

Any DI is fine.

Yes it should work, you may have to change trigger mode to K24.

A 3 wire sensor is a narrowband sensor. It is not suitable for tuning, it cant give any indication of lambda - it can only tell the ecu if the mixture is richer than stoich or leaner than stoich.

Yes, AC request from the dash works with the mini CAN stream.

Yes, that will be fine.

You must be mistaken. The G4X software will not even talk to a G4+ ecu at all. If you managed to do a firmware update and load a map then you were using the correct software.

Yes the R in the spark plug number usually means it is a resistor type. I dont know the change over point off the top of my head so best to contact tech support with your serial number to confirm. Purchase date doesnt mean much as it could have been sitting in one of our warehouses or the dealers stock for some time.

It would be better to attach the log and tune, tables arent useful without some context to how they are being used. For the connection issue, the first check would be that it has resistor spark plugs. If it is an older G4X it maybe able to come back to Link for a modification to the USB circuit that helps in cases where the connection is flaky. There is also an updated USB cable with ferrite beads. Note you have lots of ECU logging capacity in G4X, set it up and use it, you dont need a laptop connected then and it is recording all the time.

Ive seen one other case in our tech support system where something similar was going on. In that case the user tried a different laptop and all worked as it should. So that would be my next advice. Otherwise contact Aim directly or our tech support and they can contact Aim for you.

You dont even have any CAN set up in that map. Can you attach the map with the settings that you were using for the screenshot above.

You can try this: You will need a windows computer Running Race Studio 3 revision 3.38.03 (latest Revision) You will also need to download from the Aim Server the latest firmware for your dash (for MXS this is currently 2.36.76) Both the above can be downloaded if in Race Studio 3 by using the blue cloud with the three dots. Once that is done connect to the dash by usb . Turn off the dash. Press the two buttons on the left of the dash while turning on the dash.( you will need stable power while you do this , don’t just hold the wires to a battery. This will cause one led to flash red and the display will remain blank. In the cloud with the three dots click on update device . Then update to the latest revision if not greyed out. If it is greyed out press other revisions and select the latest revision and press update. The led should change frequency of flashing and then reboot. When the MXS reboots it should be restored to a default config.

Charge temp approximation will affect the VE calculation. So, you need the VE somewhere close to start with so you can do the test, but if you change anything in the charge temp table you will usually have to touch up the VE table afterwards. You often need to go backwards and forwards tweaking both.

The turbo sensor ground should connect to ecu sensor ground, not DI15-. DI15- will be left unconnected.

2 & 32Gb will be fine. The low powered tablets are a bit slow for the app to open and initially connect, but once they are up and running they have no drama with PC Link. I have an old dell venue 8 pro that would be 6 odd years old and it is quite useable. It might take something like 30 seconds to wake up, connect and show live data.

Yes. The power supply to a hall sensor generally only powers the electronics inside, its output signal is not influenced by its power source. The signal wire is pulled up by the ecu with a regulated supply. The hall sensor just shorts that signal wire to ground.

Do it as per the help file or you will be at risk of causing a back feed.

Provided the hose is big enough that would work I think. Obviously crankcase ventilation would be less effective with half the vacuum going through the idle valve. Typically you want about 16-19mm hose if they are long, may get away with 13mm if they are short.

For the CAS, the NZ wiring kit is a good improvement for reasonably cost. The ultimate is a proper crank trigger, but these can get quite expensive unless you are capable of engineering some of it yourself. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Although the NZ wiring kit is still a cam driven trigger, it still eliminates many of the original nissan CAS problems and is usually a big improvement. For the 3T Atom, yes I expect that would be suitable, I mostly use the Atom for NA 4cyl. Just check you have enough aux outputs, there are only 4 on the atom assuming you are running direct spark. So, fuel pump, fan and two wire idle valve would use up 3 of them. If 3 wire idle valve then you will use all 4.

Start with the example numbers given in the help file, this generally works pretty well with often no adjustment needed for many cars. As for tuning the table it is easiest on the dyno, if a turbo car I usually block the intercooler with cardboard so the air temp quickly increases while coolant temperature stays more or less constant while holding at constant speed/load. If the charge temp number is correct you will see little lambda change as the IAT increases. I do this at about 4 different loads/RPM and from that you will have a pretty good idea of the shape the table and values it needs. For an NA car I have a large flexible duct that I rig up so the air filter is mostly sucking air from somewhere hot like behind the radiator or exhaust manifold and use the same technique.