Adamw

I havent tuned an RB for a long time, but I suspect you would need more like 50-55deg @3000RPM, 100/120kpa to get some decent knock.

Yes, assuming it is NA the MAF air temp is fine. On most 350Z installs I see they generally fit an IAT sensor somewhere near the throttle body in the custom intake pipe to the filter or whatever.

Leave the other cables there, the chassis still needs a ground connection.

User stream file attached. Set up on ID1635, bit rate 1Mbit. LF wheel = CAN Freq1 RF = CAN Freq2 LR = CAN Freq3 RR = CAN Freq4. ECU Master CAN Wheel speed G4X ID1635.lcs

The BMW mini CAN stream will make most of the basics work. Or you will find on the forum here an E46 map from me with some custom CAN that will make most of it work. My map is G4+ though so it will need manually copying accross and several changes to work in a G4X.

Ethanol % and temp comes from a flex fuel sensor which connects to a digital input. You can also repurpose AN Volt 10 and 11 (factory narrowband O2 sensors not needed), and AN Volt 12 (evap press) is not used.

We dont support the old 4 tooth sync with 24T ref as it wouldnt allow sequential injection or direct spark ignition. But if you want to keep it you can still make the Link work using the stock 4 tooth wheel. Just connect the 4 tooth sensor to trigger 1, nothing connected to trig 2. The 24T wheel will not be used. Trigger mode multitooth, sync mode none. Ignition has to be distributor and injection mode has to be multipoint group.

Either G1 or G2 works, just trigger offset is 360 different. I think Toyota just used it to give slightly faster start up.

I have just messaged you a firmware fix to try.

MAP sensor is best if it has its own dedicated port, not shared with other devices.

No, nothing else was changed, just added the two voltage measurements. CAN AN Volt 1 is the voltage at the lambda controller and CAN AN Volt 2 is the heater voltage. Note you can also see the red "reconnected" marker line in your log when cranking started, this means the ecu shut off for an instant, the CAN and logging would have stopped for a brief moment right at the worst point, so the batt voltage and the CAN lambda voltage actually would have dropped lower than is reported.

I think the problem in this case is we have the error threshold too close to the frequency that is considered normal, and with your fuel being at exactly 0% ethanol it is just teetering on the error threshold. I have just passed this on to the firmware team to have a look, I suspect we may need to adjust the error value a little to fix this.

Lambda target is already factored in to modelled fuel equation, the fuel table number (VE) doesnot change if you change lambda target. Our help file only says in traditional mode you want to aim for numbers around 50% in the middle of your fuel table, it doesnt say that is the max. The reason is with traditional fuel equation you have the option to turn off many of the compensations that are used in modelled mode - so the fuel table represents fuel mass rather than air volume, in some cases you need a much larger range of numbers in the table than you do in modeled mode.

If you can find somewhere the 2 CAN lambdas can be reasonably close together but still reach each exhaust then possibly 1 x CANJST, 1 x CANEXT & 1 x CANTEE. I would suggest using MAP, the ECU has a built in MAP sensor. I dont have any calibration data for the stock MAF.

You really want a cable from the battery negative post direct to the engine, starter motor, or gearbox case, chassis often has relatively high resistance when you try to pass starter current through it.

Trigger 1 has 24teeth per cam rev. You should conect it to an aux output and set it to tacho.

Yes the RPM filter will smooth out the RPM trace in the log, but it doesnt fix the problem that the ECU is still getting bad position information.

My advice is always start simple and only add complexity if required. For boost target you will likely get away with a single 3D table, boost knob Vs RPM. Changing the throttle target to limit power is fine - but be aware any time you adjust that later you will likely have to retune the boost control system - or at least the base DC table anyhow. Note if Boost source is set to MAP (most common) boost target is absolute pressure (MAP), so if you have a 1bar waste gate spring your minimum target should be 200kpa. There are plans to in the future, but I wouldnt get too excited about them. They add many complications, are more difficult to tune and give poor control compared to pneumatic. The worm drive flapper type are especially difficult and arent reliable at all. They only really make sense in cases such as high power drag engines where you need to do odd boost strategies on launch or where you need a wider range of control than dome pressure control can offer.

In most cases VE will be around 50-60% around the idle region and 100-110% at WOT, peak torque RPM. That would be for traditional fuel equation, not modeled. The only reason for this recommendation is so you have good resolution at low load and dont run out of range at high load.

This is what we just done. The lambda is showing a voltage about 0.3V lower than the ecu is reporting when the engine is running. The ECU is dropping to 7.7V during cranking, so the lambda is probably dropping even further. Error 26 is reported is the lambda voltage drops below 8V. So if you fix whatever is causing the large battery voltage drop during cranking you will likely solve the error 26. Most likely battery/starter/main batt cable/ground. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFJ9LLGSrH4

Yes, I can confirm we got this to work. It was the 2 CAN lambda channels he had set up that was upsetting things. I will attach the steam file later if I remember

If its not being detected in device manager there is a problem. Assuming it is a standard windows laptop, not a mac running parallels or something... Can you open up the case and check the USB cable is connected to the USB socket on the topboard and not one of the CAN sockets on the bottom board. If that looks ok then I would suggest you email [email protected] to get it inspected.

Should be able to handle that. Attach your dash and ecu configs.

Ok, will send you some instructions.

Do you have a ground cable from the batt negative post to the engine block?