Adamw

To import the VVT table, right click on your VVT table in PC link, go to >import/export > import from file, then choose this new table file. For the VVT problem, please attach the log and tune.

I would expect both crank and cam are reluctor sensors and the crank pattern is likely 36-2. Cam pattern is unknown to me. Can you set triggermode to 1JZ VVTi and do a triggerscope while cranking, I will then advise proper settings after looking at that.

B25 not working does sound like possible a hardware issue. They are all extensively tested before leaving HQ though so it was at least working when it left NZ. You can send it back for inspection if you like. I cant see how it would be related to your connection or speed issue but give us an update after a few days.

Yes, that sounds good. Those coils pull about 4-8A max at typical NA dwell times. Both grounds should go to the cyl head - I believe one is secondary winding ground and the other is the ignitor ground.

It will most likely be your trigger offset wrong. With a distributor your offset can be 180, 360 or 540 out and the engine will still run as the rotor will always send the spark to the correct cylinder. With direct spark only the correct offset will work. You have -23 as an offset now - so try 337.

Its in the help file: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information > AEM X-Series UEGO gauge.

Someone like Element 14 or RS components should have them within a couple of days, otherwise any Link dealer can get you a CANPCB next day.

Ok thats odd. Try assigning a different aux to engine fan 1 output, do a store, then change it back to Inj 7 to see if that changes anything.

Have you set the fault settings correctly? Usually low of 0.05v and high of 4.95v

Just the name of the analog inputs in the software since the G3 had the first three that were labelled "load inputs" . So, G3 pin originally labelled "Load 1" is now AN Volt 1 in G4 software. G3 pin Load 2 is AN Volt 2. G3 pin Load 3 is AN Volt 3. G3 pin AN Volt 1 is now AN Volt 4 in the G4 software.

The pinout matches and your set up looks correct. You should see ground on B25 when you set ign 7 to test on, assuming active state is set to low. If you ground pin B25 with a paper clip poked in the back of the plug or similar does the fan come on?

Yes that will be easy with TP as the reference for VE and VVT.

Temp are typically 2 wires, signal and sensor ground.

AFR should be 2DP, Lambda will be 3.

You will have to load your own map back in or you can use the S15 basemap that is in PC Link and start from scratch.

Im not sure to be honest. Those AC control units are a black box of magic with more electronics than the space shuttle inside. It might be a question for a subaru specific forum. But as far as I know, the AC unit needs no interaction from the engine ecu.

I would guess due to the hardware ID being messed up that you have a dead USB chip in the ecu. It will have to go back to Link HQ in NZ for repair.

Oil shouldnt worry a reluctor

That wire is not your problem, it is only used as a signal to the ecu to force the alternator out of low voltage/economy mode. It is not connected to anything in our WRX104 ecu as our ecu doesnt control the alternator - it just runs in normal mode all the time. It is the AC control module that grounds that wire to turn the blower relay on.

I would probably set the frequency to 25Hz in the boost control settings, but apart from that it will just be tuning.

Notice also about a minute before it stopped in the "unknown failure" log the lambda pegged full lean as well? It may indicate a ground has come off or something? Does it have spark when your cranking? Although there is definately something with the trigger it is not fully happy about, I dont think that is all of the problem - maybe more a symptom. From the cranking log it appears to have all it needs for fuel and spark so I would still expect some signs of life.

1 wire to aux output, other to ign switched +12V source

I have never needed to do any more than a single VE table. Sometimes you will need to tickle up the final VE table after VVT has been tuned but usually it tends to take care of itself. If you find the need then you can turn on a 4D fuel table and put cam position on one axis to perform a fuel correction based on cam pos.

No, you will need a wideband controller as well. This doesnt necessarily have to be a Link CAN lambda, there are many 3rd party 0-5V analog and also 3rd party CAN options, but the Link CAN Lambda does work well. The CAN wires need to be twisted but dont need to be shielded. They are fine bundled along side other wires. If using a Link CAN lambda you will need a 120ohm terminating resistor across the two CAN wires near the lambda connection and I would also install the 22uF capacitor across the power wires as per the quick start guide since you arent using a dedicated relay. Pressure sensors are 3 wires - 5V, sensor ground and signal. They donot need to be shielded. You can often splice into the 5V and ground to the TP sensor or MAP sensor. No shield needed. What model car is it?

Generally TP works better for cam control in my experience. Many tuners still use MAP or MGP as the load axis for VVT so cam position is referencing the same variable as the fuel (VE) table lookup which should in theory make tuning the VE table easier - so it is fine to do it that way if you wish. It does work ok. But in my experience in some operating regions, especially light throttle this can cause a self perpetuating cam position oscillation and when it does happen you can feel the torque oscillating with it while driving. This is because moving the cam changes the MAP, so having MAP also controlling the commanded cam position is not ideal.