Adamw

Can you please update to the current firmware, you are still on old firmware in your latest map. It should be 6.17.8

They are identical, The ignition output is just a low side drive, that is pulled up to about 6.5V. So regardless of whether the output is set to tacho or speedo, it will output a 0-6.5V square wave. I can only assume the difference you are seeing is due to duty cycle or frequency. The easiest fix would be to move your speedo to one of the aux outputs as they are pulled up to 12V. Aux 6 for instance which is the purge valve, then you can move the purge valve wire to ign 8. You may be able to add your own pull-up to 12V to the ign drive but the 6.5V pull-up they already have is quite strong so that is going to bias things.

Cruise active won’t show active until you’re actually driving with cruise on. Enable will show any time the switch is on.

Before you go that far, are the statuses changing in the live measures screen? For the alram conditions, 0 means off, 1 means on. So a condition something like >0 or equal to 1 will do.

Ok, I had a quick look over, most looks good. A couple of things to mention: You dont have power supply to your Cam sensor. The 8V supply on ecu pin A6 is often convenient for hall sensors. That oil pressure sensor/switch doesnt look right, it only has a ground and AN Volt connected. If it is a variable resistance sensor then it will probably need a pull-up resistor to 5V added to make it work but that type dont usually work well. Personally I would probably change it to a proper 0-5V sensor as the ecu can still mimic the "warning light switch" part of it just with a single pressure input. Are fans, fuel pump, E-throttle relay etrc all going to be done over CAN to PDM? What is Aux 1 to the PDM doing?

Yeah, Im not really sure, I would suggest updating to the latest firmware to start with. I loaded your map into a ECU with current firmware and it works fine in my quick test below. But I did also try the oldest firmware I had handy (6.16.27) and it still worked fine in that too so Im still not convinced if that is your problem or there is something else Im missing too. Note you should zero out your trim tables as some of them are adding 100% when the temps and gear is high which is why it shows 100% DC below. Give us another log at idle on current firmware if it still doesnt work and I will take a closer look. Yeah, I think the help file is wrong there but I will get that clarified. For me if Im below the RPM or MAP lock out the status shows OFF rather than MAP lockout.

Yes, see the release notes for firmware version 5.6.6.3593. The fuel pump control still actually worked correctly all the time, just the displayed duty cycle in the log didnt match what was actually happening. The 2nd connection from the FPC is a feedback "Pump is running signal". Im not really sure what you would need or want to use this for. Our V10 plug-in ECU's dont use it. It may be a part of some emmisions or Evap strategy in the oem ecu but im not sure.

Try files below. I have some doubts I may have the cruise statuses wrong and Im not sure if the CAN auxes are actually working yet but I didnt get to check with the software engineers today. Look in the live measures screen if CE light and Cruise enabled changes status, for the CE light you can put it in to test mode in PC link. For cruise you will have to press the on switch. MitsubishiVR4Galant-LegnumG4XtremePlugin.pclrno2 new CAN.pclx James991.zconfig

It sounds like you havent installed PC Link in the default location? Can you try re-installing PC Link and dont change any of the default install options. Otherwise I would suggest calling our tech support and one of them can jump of team viewer and do it for you.

Ok, This is weird, like the driver hasnt been installed. Can you try this: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPtSZdsjoGBDdeIjLI?e=qa8KDD

Sorry for the confusion, you are right, that is V1.4 I have posted above. I dont even have V1.5 in a manual. But here is is from the actual schematic.

We are here to support our users. Please feel free to attach your IO list and I will critique it when I get a minute.

It is labelled wrong in the manual. The manual is actually V1.6. This is what yours will have/V1.5: Sorry, I had forgotten about it. I have run out of time tonight but will have a look tomorrow. Dont be afraid to chase me again if I forget.

Im not sure if I would expect there to be any resistance with a solidstate sensor like this. Another thing you can do to test your wiring is change DI6 to GP input, pull-up resistor on. Then with sensor unplugged DI 6 should show active, and if you short the Gnd/signal pins together at the flex plug then DI6 should show off.

On that same screen, can you change the property drop down to “hardware ids” like my example.

With ignition on, engine not running, go to the runtimes screen, Digital tab. DI 6 will be green and show active when there is a signal coming from the flex sensor.

That is not something we at Link support sorry. I would suggest trying some of the forums that are relevant to that model car.

Yes it will influence the Mixture map so you do need to consider this effect when using it. There is no software tool to compensate for the delay at this time, although it is on the wish list. If you are using Auto mode CLL then the Lambda rate table compensates for the transport delay and system response time. If you are using Stoich mode then the gain adjustment should take care of it. That is not really true, most OEM type oxygen probes are designed to run very hot, the Bosch LSU4.9 for instance is rated for 930°C continuous exhaust gas temperature, and up to 1030°C for short periods. This myth mostly came from Innovate controllers that controlled the pump cell much differently than the sensor was designed for so they became very sensitive to temperature changes. Any other controller should be fine to have the sensor close to the engine or turbo. Also be aware that some controllers and sensors are very slow also which may contribute to your problem. The worst I have seen is the old NGK AFX with NTK sensor, they are painfully slow.

That screenshot suggests the driver has not been installed. Do you have a G4X or G4+ ECU? Do you have administrator privileges on that PC? What version of PC Link do you have? (go to Help>about in PC link to see version)

Yes sorry I should have replied here yesterday and forgot. I found that we have sold some of the first batch of G4X Evo8 ecu's with a revision 1.5 bottom board. The pinout in the manual is for V1.6. The main difference between V1.6 & V1.5 that I can see is DI10 has been moved. So you will find DI10 on your ECU is actually on the expansion 1 connector.

Yes, the secondaries will be fired in group fire mode every 360deg. Injector drive 7 & 8 alternatively. So Inj7, then 180 deg later inj 8, 180 deg later inj 7 again etc. So how you pair them up doesnt matter. I would probably do 6&9 together and 7/8/10 together, this will spread the fuel pressure pulses in the fuel rail a little more evenly.

Only DI 1-4 are capable of measuring cam position. But you can move the clutch wire to DI10.

The highside drives on Aux 5/6/7/8 are rated for 0.5A continuous. Google suggests the B18C vtec solenoid will be between 14-30ohms. So if its 30ohm it will be fine but if its 14ohm it will probably trip out after some time. If yours is more than about 25ohm I would be happy to drive it direct otherwise it will be best to fit a relay.

Sorry must have been half asleep with that comment. DI2 and DI4 would probably be the easiest.

Get it set so it idles first, then do the TPS cal. You want the TPS to read zero at idle. Your settings are correct but the log shows no signal from the flex sensor. Either the wiring is wrong or the sensor is faulty. Is your wiring like so?: