Adamw

It is normal to not see much (if any) vacuum during cranking. No, you will unlikely get it to fire without something close to normal DI level pressure. Typically 50-80Bar at cranking and idle. Looking on google that engine looks like it has a fairly standard HDP5 NO type pump so it needs to be energised to create pressure. First thing to check is if you have 12V at the DI pump while cranking. You could also try setting polarity to high in the software in case the control logic is reversed. Some engines if sitting around for a while seem to take a long time to build pressure, I dont know if they get air trapped somewhere or what. 2b. When the GDI pump is in error the pump output is disabled. In the GDI pump error settings you could try setting the low pressure to something very low and the blanking time to max to stop it tripping while trying to get pressure for the first time. Usually once you have everything working correctly the pressure will come up near instantly during cranking. 3. I cant really find any relevent logs in my data. I have one from a N54 engine (which is quite different and uses a async PWM pump), it has 8% dutycyle on the injector with 57bar FP while cranking.

Vaughan, he wants to put Lambda on the axis of a GP limit table, not use a math block. If you do that it gives you only 1dp which is not useful. It should be at least 2 dp for Lambda. G4X: G4+ Example:

I dont know sorry, I have only done some basic research into running one for someone else a couple of years ago. I did have some factory technical info on it somewhere.

The HR16 trigger mode is not designed to work with a variable cam, it will not be suitable. The late HR16 engine with VVT is a bit of an odd ball, the VVT is continuous (both intake and exhaust) but the intake cam can not only advance from home position but also retard. It runs in an Atkinson cycle at idle an low loads. It also has 2 special fuel injectors per cylinder, I have not seen any info on whether the injectors can be controlled with a conventional driver or if they require something special.

No, as stated above you have a trigger problem. I agree your GP limiter is not set up well, but it is not activating in the log you attached. The log clearly shows the cause of the cut is RPM limit, and the trigger error counts up at the same time.

If using the Link CAN lambda (or internal Fury/Thunder lambda) there is fail safe logic built in. If using a single CAN lambda and it reports an error then Lambda will be displayed/logged as zero and the CLL will be disabled. If using two CAN lambdas in dual channel mode and one reports an error the CLL will be disabled on that bank only. If using multiple CAN lambdas and single channel CLL (based on Lambda average), if one sensor reports an error then that sensor will be removed from the Lambda average calculation and CLL will be based on the average of the remaining good sensors. If all sensors are reporting errors then CLL will be disabled Note if using an ecu with automode you can also turn on 3D trim tables which allows you to specify different min & max trims under different conditions. For example you could allow CLL to remove 25% fuel under cruise conditions, but no more than 3% at high boost or full throttle. CLL is also disabled during any of the lockout conditions, as well as launch control, antilag, over-run fuel cut, accel enrichment active etc.

Pull-up off, latch off, on level=high

I have moved this into its own thread since it was nothing to do with the original thread that it had been tagged onto. Ed, I suggest you attach your tune and a log. Original thread was here:

A small change like that I would expect just changing the Idle target idle RPM table to what you want will do it.

We'll be able to adapt the existing tune to give it a safe starting point. Since it is still ITB we will leave it alpha N but turn on MAP compensation. Your AFR target table is already set up for boost so the fuel will almost take care of itself. Will need to modify the ign table to be MAP based. A couple of questions before I dig in: What's the 2 fuel maps for - switched by DI1? Are the injectors still the same size? What analog input have you connected the map sensor to and what specific sensor is it? I'd also highly recommend you update the firmware before you re-tune, it is very old and there have been many updates, fixes and improvements since.

It is just your throttle PID too aggressive so it gets an unstable oscilation, this causes the TP/Target error accumulator to count up quickly so the ECU enables safety mode, shuts off the e-throttle relay and limits eng RPM to 1800. I would drop the proportional to 6.5 and bump the derivative up to 35%.

So you where getting fault code 14, but now you have turned off AN Volt 2, and connected the MAP to AN 6. Are you getting fault code 26 now? The onboard MAP sensor is normally on AN Volt 1 on the Evo4-8 plug-in - Are you not using the on-board sensor? To diagnose, If you temporarily set the AN V 6 error low to 0.0V and error high to 5.0V, then it wont go into fault condition so you can then go to the runtimes screen analog tab, and see the actual voltage coming in to AN V6. If it is somewhere close to 0V then you have a wiring or sensor problem.

It looks like it needs about 3.3% TP to hit the normal 1050RPM idle (with fan on), but with the current table it was pulling 4.4% from the target table, +0.5% for the fan step, so the closed loop trim was pulling -1.6% out to acheive the idle target. When you drive off this CL trim is stored so that next time you enter idle conditions the throttle should be sitting in a position that is somewhere close to where it needed to be to achieve the correct idle last time. I suspect this -1.6% trim when it is entering idle conditions is possibly contributing to the dip below target when coming to a stop. I might be wrong but you usually need to experiment with a few variables to see where the main influence is coming from. We may end up having to increase those top left hand cells back to closer to were they where but its best not to change too much at once. Also, just noticed the ISC proportional gain is quite low, can you bump that up to 1.0 as well.

Can you try the E-throttle target like this:

There is a conditioned square wave wheel speed signal available at the ABS ecu that I would tap into. Pin 7 is the front right and pin 20 is the front left. You will then have to build a small frequency divider circuit like this to connect to the ecu:

Either would be fine. I think you would be in for similar money by the time you buy 3 extra probes for the AEM (from memory the only come with one in the kit). The Internal & Link CAN lambda would give a couple of advantages in terms of being able to disable closed loop lambda or ignore one of the sensors from lambda average if one reports an error, also since they have bi-directional communication they know when the engine is running so they can apply the proper sensor warm-up sequence during start up. I used to have a AEM 4ch on my dyno a few years ago and it worked well, it gave good sensor life and reported similar lambda to my good wideband that I trust.. The only downside is it uses the older LSU4.2 sensors which are becoming harder to find and a bit more expensive nowadays. I have a Link CAN template for it somewhere.

That map you attached is from an Xtreme wire-in ECU, not a plug-in. I have made some adjustments to make it work in a plug-in ECU. You will need to update to the latest firmware to be able to use this map. JZX100 Plug-in.pclr

Have you got trigger 2 sync mode set to "none". Otherwise attach a short log of it cranking.

The 044's are fairly sensitive to cavitation and that can give them an erratic sound similar to what you have there. Im not saying that is your problem, but something to consider. They dont like to "suck" at all. They typically need to be pressure feed by a lift pump or gravity fed by mounting below fuel level. Definitely no filter on the suction side and the inlet hose needs to have little restriction. Cavitation is usually worse as temps increase, so if it is quieter and more consistent on a cold morning and gets worse when the fuel or day warms up then that would be a strong indication of cavitation.

Is it a supra plug-in ecu or something else? You would typically already have rear wheel speed available from the gearbox sensor so you just need to add a front wheel. If you have a plug-in ECU then the ABS signal will be too high frequency so you will need to either build a frequency divider circuit to bring it down to an acceptable level or fit some other separate toothed wheel for front wheel speed.

Can you update to the latest firmware (5.6.7). The E-throttle ISC offset is not working how I expect it to, I remember there was a bug related to that sometime ago that was fixed so this may be related. Can you do another log after doing that, with no other changes.

Can you attach the latest tune as some of the logged values suggest some of the changes I have suggested earlier havent been made.

Restore to factory settings basically wipes all settings and loads default values, so it will not be configured for your engine at all after doing that. Did you save a copy of the map it had in it before doing the restore? I dont have a copy of the JZX100 base map myself. If you have a copy then please attach and I will take a look at what is causing the error. If you dont have a copy then I would suggest you email [email protected] and they will probably be able to get you something on Monday.

I have little info on the M62, but set up trigger as multitooth/missing, trig 1 is reluctor, 60-2. Trig 2 optical/hall, pull-up on, sync mode "cam level". I dont have the trigger offset but many BMW's are around 280 or -80deg. For the VVT the Holden V6 mode should work.

Ok, the throttle control is much better now. I want to try making the first row of your E-throttle table into something a bit more normal now. Can you change the red cells to match this example and do another log. It may stall a bit more often with this adjustment but we will probably be able to fix that later with idle ignition. Can you also change the idle speed control RPM lockout to 300RPM. These changes may not improve things initially but since Im not there to see & feel it how it responds live, I need you to try this stuff so I can look at the logs to see if we are heading in the right direction or not.