Adamw

Im no subaru guy, but from memory a 99 wrx would have had a dumb coil with separate ignitor originally, you have now changed to coils with ignitiors built in. Did you remove/bypass the factory ignitor?

Use the "Jeep Cherokee 2000" mode. I think from memory it is 18-2-2-2 on the flywheel which sounds like what you are describing. You will need to be on the latest firmware if you dont see this mode in your ECU, it was only just recently added.

I dont see anything wrong here. Is >ignition>ignition setup>ignition main>spark edge set to falling? Does it have the factory ignition system? Stock coils wasted spark? Is it a dial back timing light? How is the timing light connected? Can you attach your map also.

Do us a trigger scope at idle and attach it here. Here's how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=UDcotj

The delay setting will only account for a couple of degrees. Was the set base timing screen open when you were revving it? Is this a plug-in ecu?

I have the cam sensor below. For the crank sensor I think you will probably need to find a wiring diagram.

DI 8 is on pin 88, you can use it for whatever function you like.

List below of currently supported inputs via CAN. So Oil press is there, exhaust temp is there (would go to one of the "CAN TC Cyl#" channels), but there is no oil temp CAN input. If you just want to log it or use it for safeties etc then you could bring oil temp in as say "CAN TC Cyl 8", you would still be able to use it for anything you can use oil temp for but it would just be named wrong. And yes the AEM dash can send this info to the ecu - however the AEM dash doesnot have any analog inputs - how are you wiring these sensors to the dash?

From what I have heard from friends at Sema, they are designed to be driven like an E-throttle, it will need an H bridge with closed loop position control. There was mention that them or a "partner" will be selling a separate driver box so you can control it via a more typical PWM type boost control signal. Im interested to know what you would need this for? It seems like it is designed to replace the CO2 control on the Pro mods and similar where they do odd things at launch etc. We use electronic wastegates in my current job and to be honest I dont see any real advantage over a more traditional option - we do it for quicker troubleshooting & scrutineering purposes mainly. It takes a lot of work to get them to behave the way a pneumatic gate just behaves naturally during gear changes and stuff like that.

That will be fine on a NA engine. I have some cars with them in the primaries with no drama.

I only see one around time 1:04, is this what you are talking about? This would typically indicate an interruption of USB comms. So it just draws a straight line between the points where is lost comms and when it started again. The reason for that will be harder to diagnose. What sort of connection speed do you normally see at the top right of your screen? I only had a quick look, but my feeling is just before that point the MAP drops from around 39/40 to 34KPa, this reduces the injector PW from 0.44 to 0.37, but the lambda actually goes richer. I suspect maybe your injectors are just hitting the point where they are becoming erratic - some are behaving differently than others. Try setting your min effective pulse width limit to something like 0.42 and see if you can reproduce it.

I cant think of how that would effect anything, in your earlier logs all sensors appeared to be reading correctly so it suggests nothing is shorted out in the Exp loom. To confirm that really was your problem, if you plug the exp connector back in do your trigger errors come back? Are you getting RPM now?

The bit you are missing though is that a Subaru has cams on opposite sides of the engine, so making sure the "home position" is correct at build time is well worth while for the two two reasons below. In contrast to say a cast iron block inline engine you can usually just rely on the factory home position being close enough (assuming the cam grinder got it right). 1. When the heads/block are decked (most subarus have had this done many times by now...), the cams move closer to the crank, the tensioner is only on one side of the engine and the cam belt is a fixed length, so the cams on one side both advance and the cams on the other side both retard. Effectively doubling the normal error this type of machining causes. 2. The block is aluminium and the distance from one side to the other is much longer than a typical inline engine, this means thermal expansion causes even more of the same effect explained above. Its been a long time since I had this discussion with someone that knew but it was surprisingly large numbers from memory, something like the difference between cold and hot was the cams on one side advance 8degs and the cams on the other side retard 8 deg. So your two intake cams even though they are showing the same "position" in the software are effectively opening/closing the valves 16degs differently to each other in relation to the crank. I believe the factory cams are indexed differently to account for the thermal expansion effect but I believe most aftermarket or reground cams arent and the factory obviously never considered the decking effect. You could probably do a quick test, turn on the cam angle test before a cold start, set RPM and ECT lockout low so it works right from start up. Start the PC logger recording all parameters then start the engine and allow to warm up, log the whole warm up. You can then look at "Cam Angle #1,2,3" to see how much the cam moves from hot to cold. You will only be able to do one cam at a time but just do one on each side.

If you are looking at the "Auxiliary" runtimes then this is normal, they only show "on" when assigned to auxiliary output functions. The drives that are used for inj/Ign will just show "off" all the time.

“Zero” is just the point where the cams are resting against the mechanical stop - ie all the way home. The engine builder needs to check that this “zero” is relatively close to where the cam manufacturer intended it to be. Subaru’s are especially difficult as they change so much between hot and cold, most builders that are familiar with them will factor this fudge factor in to the cam timing when building the cold engine.

Agree with JMP here, less advance (flat all the way to 1500) and set it richer initially. Once you get the ignition right you may be able to lean it back off but its easier to start on the rich side.

The was an error in one of the old firmwares that caused it to display wrong. The actual output to the fuel pump works correctly, just it is displayed wrong on screen. Update your firmware and it will be fixed.

No real way to do that directly sorry. It may be possible to fudge up something similar. The best I could come up with is use something like GP RPM Limit 2. Set the limit to 0% so it doesnt actually do any limiting when the limit is active. You could then use a combination of a virtual aux and timer so the GP limiter statistic gets a count eveytime the IC spray had been running for 1 second or similar. Just thinking out aloud though, havent actually looked at it.

That is what the dip switches do that I mentioned two posts up. (even though it says "polarity", the switches actually swap the crank for cam). So this possibility is already covered.

Your log show cranking starts at 4.306 seconds and the engine is running at 800RPM by 5.31seconds. That is exactly1.0 seconds to start, doesnt seem too excessive to me? Is this as bad as it gets? Can you attach a triggerscope of it cranking (turn ignition off so it doesnt start), I will see if there is anything that can be improved there. No ecu can - how would it know which spark plug to fire and where TDC is if it hasnt synced.

Are you sure the alternator light is a ground? In most cars this is a 12V signal from the dash lamp to the exciter pin on the alternator. In any case, these two documents will probably cover both options: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/configuring/mx-series/FAQ_Configuring_MXx1.2_DigitalStatus_100_eng.pdf https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/mx_series/FAQ_Sensors_MXSStrada_Alarm_LEDs_100_eng.pdf

Im sorry, but you have most of this wrong, there is a good explanation of how it works in the help file, you should study that and try to understand how it works before offering advice. No, the hard limit is designed to be used as an extra safety step, it should only ever be initiated if you have the normal progressive limit set wrong and the RPM overshoots the set limit. Under normal limiting conditions you should not even get close to this limit. Start cut is the amount of cut that first gets applied when the RPM reaches the control range. The general idea is to use the smallest number possible. You want just enough to prevent RPM over shoot during very high acceleration events (free rev) such as when the wheels come off the ground in a rally car or a jetski leaving the water. Typically 20 or 30% is normal for a road car engine, whereas 50 or 60% may be needed on a low inertia motorcross bike or jetski engine. The reason for 2 different start cuts is most engines will need more limiting if the throttle is wide open than it does if it is at say only 30% open. If you set start cut to 100% then you have effectively turned off the progressive limiting altogether and only have a hard cut. Kind of right, but poorly explained. Exit decay rate is how quickly the limiter is reduced to zero after the RPM has fallen below the limit control range. It effects how quickly the torque is re-introduced. It is typically used to prevent the sudden increase in torque causing a loss of traction - especially important for launch control limiting and on circuit cars where you may hit the limiter during exit from corners.

You will not need a resistor at all, the ecu has one built in and the dash also has one built in (just need to turn it on in dash software).

Definitely CAN over analog any day. I havent personally used the Zeitronic one but he has been around for years and I have never heard any bad comments about his stuff. I have installed and used quite a few of the 14point7 ones with no drama and they seem reliable too.

A trigger error means the ecu is not receiving the expected pattern from the crank and cam sensor. The quickest way to troubleshoot that is to get a scope capture of it so you can see the same signal the ECU is receiving and see what is wrong with it. Any other option is just shooting in the dark swapping parts and you could end up replacing the whole car and still not find it. It could be anything from a wiring issue to cam timing to a wrong sensor or other related part fitted. It will be a bit of a learning curve if you havent used one before, but you can get a basic 2 channel scope for about USD$50: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-PC-Virtual-Oscilloscope-OSC482-2-CH-20M-Bandwidth-50M-Samplinmg-Rate/254039609497?