Adamw

If you change your Evo4 wiring to match the Evo9 ecu then it will work fine.

What ECU do you have? WRX plug in? G4 or G4+? Is DI4 ignition switch showing active and Aux fuel 6 (ecu hold power) showing off?

What app are you using?

Try leaving DI2 with the original settings but change Aux 6 polarity to high.

Im not convinced that your problem is related to the trigger, but those two higher RPM triggerscopes show the crank waveform is starting to get very distorted and the low level voltage of the cam sensor is creeping up. It still looks usable at least at the time these scopes were taken, but it is definitely not normal. How it this thing wired? Is it a modified factory loom or has it got a custom loom? Piggy back? Can you do a PC log of it driving and capture the misfire?

Knocklink.pdf LambdaLink.pdf

If its working for you - then great, but in my experience they can be pretty flaky with extensions, so keep an eye on it and dont rule out the extension if you ever have trouble doing a store or downlolading a log etc. I've had a few calls from MR2 owners in the past having comms problems due to needing an extension cable to reach the cabin. If you ever have drama, a USB hub or active USB extension should work better in theory. Or Richards USB server is a nice option too.

Attach your ECU tune, I will set up a couple of test messages to see if we can get any life at the other end.

With 4 wheel speeds you can use some of the more advanced "speed sources" such as min, max or average rear speed etc, this can be beneficial for instance to stop TC being too active with cars with open diffs that lift the inside wheel on some corners etc. I havent personally used it with a single rear wheel speed but I have used it with a single gearbox speed sensor and a single front wheel and it still worked pretty good.

Yeah we can probably get a .LFM if absolutely necessary but probably the 4.5.1 would be close enough.

B134-8 is one of the main power grounds, I would expect it to probably go to the block or manifold.

No problem to do this. Set up your DI as a GP Input. Set either both 4D tables or the "Dual fuel/Dual ign" tables to be activated by that same DI.

I know there were some significant changes made to the limiters in 5.6.7 firmware so I held off replying until I could test your file in an ecu with 5.6.7. Unfortunately I still see a similar effect where the MAP limit doesnot initiate until the gear shift cut is finished. Im not sure it there is a reason for it or if it is something that can be improved but I will bring it to @Simon's attention so he can pass your logs and file on to the engineers for a look. The limiter priorities and how all the limiters interact is very complex and even over my head in the few discussions I have had with the engineers in the past. I really do sympathise, but its hard to imagine how 25Kpa extra boost for 0.2 of a second would have broken the camels back. How did the rod fail? Is it bent or was it a tensile failure? Or is it too mashed up to tell. Typically too much cylinder pressure will bend the rod but it will still be in one piece. Are the rodbolts still intact? Is the bigend blue?

No, that is normal for it to show error if not assigned/connected.

There are many ways to do this. For instance you can have 3 seperate boost tables, and use the volt input to switch between the different boost tables. Another option is to have two boost tables set to interpolate mode, then you can control how much of each table is used based on your volt input. Or another option which is probably more like what you are used too is to put the volt input on one axis of the wastegate or boost aim table. If you are using a "boost knob" then it usually makes more sense to set it up with a calibration table to convert the voltage into "knob position" then you can have say position 1-6 on the boost table axis rather than 0-5V which often doesnt make much sense to the driver. Here is an example with a six position "boost switch"

1 = 5V 2 = signal 3 = Gnd.

I would also lean towards it being a trigger problem. Do us a triggerscope with the intake cam fully home then another with it fully advanced (just above idle will be fine). That may give us some clues where the problem is.

Yes to both questions. You can use an 0-5V strain gauge with an H pattern gearbox to trigger a driven upshift cut, the "end shift" (length of cut) can be based on a timer or closed loop barrel position. If the Throttle position is below the Drive/Overrun TP setting then the shift is considered an overrun down shift instead. FYI, I will delete your similar post in the G4 section to not cause confusion.

My post was a reply to Stevieturbo’s comment. I don’t work for Link and am not defending the product, just speaking from experience. I have installed many without drama. The quick start guide is what ships in the box as far as I remember.

Sent you a PM.

No, should be fine to update direct to the latest in one step. As long as you have a copy of your orignal map saved you can always roll back to the old firmware if thing come unstuck.

Im not sure what you are asking? How would an engine run without ignition coils?

The dash set up looks wrong to me, those "G4" channel names look like they are from the RS232 stream. The ECU type should be set to something like "CAN_BUS_BASE_LCC". There are set up instructions with pictures for the MXL in the help file. Go to: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information>AIM MXL Pista. Also, the transmit rate in the ECU should be set to 20Hz.

Here is how to do a trigger scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=RGBlgS However if you are getting correct RPM when cranking it would suggest your trigger is fine.

Yes, they are fussy if connected to a circuit that has significant inductive noise (large voltage spikes). If they are wired as per the two options in the quick start guide they work fine, just very few people seem to read the manual.