Adamw

It looks like it syncs almost instantly in the log so I would be concentrating more on fuel settings. Comparing to our base map it has about twice as much pre-crank prime and crank enrichment than yours. Most other stuff I looked at seems pretty typical. So try the map below, I have just imported these two tables from the base map. Bumpty20psiV4sti test.pclr

Ok, I thought you had a Link MXS 1.2 dash but it looks like you have an older MXS. The last time I tried to do a custom CAN stream on one of these there was a bug that prevented compound messages from working. That was quite some time ago though so it has possibly been fixed by AIM by now. So before I waste too much time creating a new compound message can you load this configuration in your dash to see if it works. It will be obvious if it works or not - you wont have any data working if the bug is still there. You dont need to change anything in the ECU, just the dash for this test. Benjis Barra Patrol CAN test.zconfig

Hmm, thats odd, seems to work for me. I will email you a copy.

Yes, the wastegate solenoid is connected to the ECU so boost can be manipulated by the ECU and it is user configurable assuming your tune is not password protected. However, you cant just go and blindly adjust the boost settings unless you know the engine has been tuned at that specific boost you are going to run. Also, it will unlikely just be a matter of changing a single "boost target" number, more likely it will be a 3D table with duty cycle numbers in it so you will need a pretty good understanding of how it all works before you touch anything.

The G3-G4 firmware upgarde is a "paid for" option. Basically you order the upgrade through a dealer, give them your ECU serial number and they will get an upgrade code from us. You then use the G4 software and do a firmware update as normal, it will require you to enter the upgrade code at the beginning of the process. The upgrade cost is about NZD$200 at this time.

It looks like a USB comms drop out to me. It could be the flyback from the solenoid interfering with USB or possibly ignition noise etc. Can you do an ECU log instead? Note the aux outputs are only rated for 2A so that solenoid should really be wired through a relay too.

A 36-2 trigger disc should be fine, I dont think you are going to achieve anything by changing to a 12-1. I would start by doing a couple of triggerscope captures. Do one at idle initially and one while holding it at say 5000RPM. That might give us some clues whats wrong. Here is a quick video showing how to do a triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY Here is a video how to do a PC Log if you want to record a drive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Im not sure I will be able to get your dash config out of those files you have attached. The correct way to do this is go to the configs page in RS3, put a check in the checkbox for the config you want then hit the export button.

It sounds like you have the "activation control" set to DI5 which is your speed sensor. There is no signal coming from a speed sensor when a car is not moving so that is why it turns off. If you dont have a clutch switch or switch on the dash etc that you want to use to activate launch control then you should just set that activation control to "always on". For the non-driven wheel speed you just have to assign that in the speed sources menu. Set both driven and non-driven to LR Wheel.

Crank is now correct, cam is still wrong.

Ok, 13.6:1 is 0.93 Lambda so it is just off by a factor of 10. Can you check if your dash is on the latest firmware. If it is already and still a problem then I will adjust the scaling when I set up your EGT's.

If you attach your ECU and Dash configs I will set it up for you when I have a spare minute.

Lambda 13.6? Thats an air/fuel ratio of 200:1? It sounds like you have the analog input calibration set wrong in the ECU.

It appears to me that the ECU side of things is working correctly in your most recent log. Camshaft position seems to be believable and realistic, there are still a few errors but they are not appearing regularly enough to suggest there is much wrong with the settings now. In the log we can see the ECU is sending increasing duty cycle to the vvt solenoid trying to move the camshaft but the camshaft only moves a very small amount. So I think you either have a mechanical issue with the cam advance mechanism or possibly the solenoid/wiring. Have you confirmed if you set Aux 1 to "Test (PWM)" that you can hear the solenoid clicking?

Im not sure what you are trying to prove here? Of course with the VVT and cam position turned off there are not going to be any vvt errors as the ECU isnt even looking at it. As I, cj & ClintBHP have already told you a few times above, set VVT mode to 1JZ, cam angle test off, set the trig 2 VVT offset to 174 and it will work.

Use cal table 1, 2 or 3

no, the overlap effect will affect different areas of the fuel table differently whereas a change in fuel pressure affects the whole operating range equally.

Innovate communication is serial, our ecu’s don’t have a serial lambda input. You will need a CAN bus wideband controller if you want digital connection.

You need to read my instructions again: The problem is AEM have at least 3 different calibration curves and the OP doesn’t know what model gauge he has.

That would be model specific. Im no expert but I suspect most of the bigger brand name ones like Pioneer etc will be pretty locked down and wont allow 3rd party apps to be installed, they possibly will also have restrictions on what the USB port will talk to. My thoughts would be find a couple of models you like then do a bit of google research, you will find a forum or something about them. Probably some of the cheap generic no name ones would have a more open OS.

Not at this time sorry. There are plans to do a plug-in for the later WRX's in the future but we havent even started to work on one yet so it is some time off.

That is only half of the triggerscope. Please "save as log" as per the videos shows.

No, that is the tune file only, not a log. However I think I see the problem anyway. Your fuel table has a massive lean hole in it that starts at 6000RPM, there is less than half the fuel commanded at 6000 than there is at 5500. See pic below. Also, be aware, it looks like your ignition coils and possibly injector wiring is incorrect as the firing order is set to 1234 in the software. That means knock control and the individual cyl ignition trims you have set up will be working on the wrong cylinders.

Sorry for the slow reply, I've been overseas on holiday with only a little 8" tablet that is not much good for looking at logs. I dont see anything obviously wrong with the fueling side. Assuming the fundimentals such as fuel pressure hasnt changed since it was tuned then I would be thinking it is probably related to the camshafts and the tune may need a tickle up. For instance it probably had stronger vacuum at idle with the stock cams which would reduce the amount of fuel injected. A couple of other things I noticed: Some idle settings are wrong that are probably preventing the idle control from working at all. The stepper motor type should be set to "unipolar 6 terminal" and the stepper direction should be set to normal. You will probably need to do that base position table again after fixing that. I also notice the TP is sitting at 2.9% most of the time. That may mean it is sticking open slightly or it could just need re-calibration. Fix that before messing with the base position table again.

Rather than trial and error, we can do a quick test to get a better idea of the voltage range of your device: Temporarily change the AN Volt 4 function from "lambda 1" to "voltage 0-5V", so we can then view the raw voltage coming from the device in the runtimes screen while we do the test. Runtimes screen is accessed by pressing F12 on the keyboard and then go to the analog tab as per the picture below. Pull the sensor out of the exhaust system. With power on and the sensor hanging in free air, note down on a piece of paper both the voltage displayed in the runtimes screen and the AFR or lambda displayed on the gauge face. Next slightly dampen a rag with some hydrocarbon solvent (petrol or brake clean will do) wrap that rag around the sensor so the damp bit is near the sensor tip, the gauge should go to full rich scale as the solvent evaporates. Again note down the voltage displayed in the runtimes screen and the value displayed on the gauge face. Report back what you have recorded and we can build a calibration from that assuming the values we get back make sense.