Adamw

I gave you a link to a video on live chat yesterday, maybe you didnt watch it? Shift-click is what you are missing I think. Here it is again: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs We have also got a new feature coming in the next software release to lock a surface view to whichever table is being used to make it a bit more user-friendly.

Normally close to zero, but thats not important, just bump it up or down until your timing mark shows the same value as you have set in the "lock timing to" box.

In your trigger settings, Set engine type to RB26, set widest slot to 24deg, then set test ECCS sync to off (this must be done last). Do a store, then crank it again and tell us if it now shows RPM. All the other stuff is irrelevant for now. The GTR doesnt have an oil pressure sensor connected to the ECU, the sensor is connected to the gauge in the dash only. Your air temp sensor is connected to AN Temp 2, so turn AN Temp 3 off and put the below setings in AN Temp 2. The AN Volt 6 error is because the oxygen sensor wont output voltage until it is warmed up. We can change the fault setting so that doesnt report an error later.

When you are in the realdash connections set up area and you click on linkecu, serial port, on the next screen does the "link ecu USB" (name might be a bit different) show up in the list of available devices? Then if you unplug the usb cable while you are in that screen does that disappear off the list?

Is it any different with some throttle? As a quick test if it is fuel related you can adjust the "engine capacity" setting up or down. It is set at 2500cc now, try 3000 and 2000 just to see if it improves in either direction. I notice the trigger offset is set to -20 which is a bit odd, have you checked base timing?

No, there should still be a spark, just it will be at the wrong time. Do you get a spark if you use the ignition test function?

Yes but you said "it does not fire". Of course it will not fire with the fuel turned off. The reason the help file says to turn it off is so it doesnt fire before you have confirmed the timing has been set somewhere close to where it needs to be.

It looks like just not enough fuel, you are only getting like a 0.4ms pulsewidth. Mostly the fuel table doesnt have suitable numbers in it and the cranking enrichment is zero. It looks like your battery is fairly low also, 11V before it cranks, dropping to 8.5V when cranking, this may not help with such large injectors. Try the attached map, I have just fixed up some of those fuel settings. Fixed1.pclr

Your fuel is turned off. You have to click on the "set base timing" wrench, then you can change the offset in the set base timing screen. Make sure you hit the enter key after typing so it turns blue.

Cam sensor is wrong polarity by the looks. Can you swap the wires and do it again. Offset will probably need to change by 360deg when you swap it.

Here is a better starting point for an ITB ignition map. Download the attached file, then right-click on your ignition table, >import/export>import from file. 911 3.2NA ITB.lte

I have never seen one connected directly. The sensor needs to be protected from the temperature and contamination/condensation. Usually a length of stainless tube from manifold running "uphill" to a small canister - normally filled with steel wool, then the EMAP sensor is connected to that. https://racespeconline.com/products/t1-emap-canister https://turbosource.com/products/full-function-engineering-emap-exhaust-manifold-pressure-canister https://www.xenocron.com/products/xenocron-emap-backpressure-kit?variant=5071867543589

Yes our external e-throttle module will work with that ecu. Be aware however on a V44 you are going to be tight on analog inputs, for DBW you need 4 analog inputs, 2 for TPS and 2 for pedal sensors. The V44 only has 5.

The master fuel will need to be reduced a lot for such large injectors. If that doesnt help then please do a log of it starting and post a copy of your tune. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

The map you have attached should work. About all you will need to change is the master fuel setting. Most likely it will need to be down around 4ms, but I wouldnt have expected that would stop it from starting or at least attempting to start. Do you have a realistic RPM displayed in the software when you're cranking?

Just tell me which input the fuel level will be connected to is all I need. Might even be easier to connect that directly to the dash as it has configurable filtering

Havent had time yet but its on my list of stuff to get done. Give us a couple more days.

Can you just move the ground strap to one of these two bolts?

I agree we do need better functionality to do this but what you can do now is set up the CE light aux as a GP output, you can give it a condition so it switches on when the knock level goes above a certain value. Obviously this doesnt take target knock level into account though.

Talking to engineering this morning they say they have only seen this happen with extreme electrical noise. Since the ignition system is not stock, this is the first thing I would be looking at. How are your coils grounded? Preferably direct to the cylinder head. Where do the coils get power from? I would also try a condenser on the coil power supply. I notice the main engine ground strap is connected to one of the cam cover bolts (which is insulated with a rubber gasket), you should probably move this so its bolted direct to the cylinder head.

Correct. All plug-in ECU's have the same electronics on board so that is why they all show in the software, how many of those inputs and ouptuts get physically connected to a pin though depends on how many pins the factory connector has and if there are any spare. Yes.

No, you can leave as is. I would probably just set the keep alive time (under ECU hold settings) to zero.

The ECU only supplies a ground to the fuel pump relay, exactly the same as the stock ecu. I dont know where the fuel pump relay gets its power from in the car but it is not from the ECU. It appears your power does not come from the pink fuse if it still works with the fuse pulled.

I wouldnt have the faintest idea what the pink fuse does or how it is related to the fuel pump circuit. So all you want to be able to do is disable the fuel pump? You can just set aux 1 to off to do that.

Im not sure if I follow what you are saying. So it primes then stops when you first turn the ign on, but if the engine is started then turned off the pump keeps running? Is that what you are saying?