Adamw

Have you done the cam angle test to set the correct offset on trig 2 vvt settings?

This is a V series. The MXS dash will still work fine.

The Hella ones are quite nice as they fit in a standard ISO relay base. https://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/relays-flashers/solid-state-relays/12v-4-pin-solid-state-relay-22a.html

Can you attach a picture of the actual CAS on your engine. Also, if it is twin cam does it also have another sensor on the other cam?

The 12000 Rpm showing in your log is just a trigger error that occurred as you shut the engine off, it was only idling with TP at zero at that time. In your video, it looks more like you have changed from 3rd gear into 2nd causing a mechanical over-rev, electronics can do nothing to prevent that. Having said that, if you want a faster responding limiter, change to ignition. cut, fuel is injected much earlier in the cycle than ignition so if you use fuel cut you can still potentially have one cycle of fuel already injected sitting in the intake port or combustion chamber waiting for the next spark. Also I suggest you increase the start cut TP100 to 60% and the end cut to 100%.

you will need a clutch switch or lever switch. I don’t know how you would detect “low load” when you are at WOT.

No, consider the basemaps something to allow you to get the engine starting and driving only, they will need tuning to suit your engine. Most of our plug-in base maps have come from tuned/running near stock cars but they may not have been dead stock and in many cases the plug-in ecu’s cover several models of similar cars the have very different injectors.

Nobody here is going to be able to diagnose much from a dyno chart. Post a log and the tune file. Also it would help to know what the engine is.

I can’t quite understand what your scope capture is showing. What is channel A & B connected to? Generally the ECU only switches the ground side of the spill valve, the live side comes from the power wiring. On your scope it looks like channel A is set to 10v/div so those small square waves are approx 15v.

Correct, with a missing tooth crank wheel the cam is only used for phase detection. So really the most important aspect is the cam edge that you are using must always occur on the same side of the crank gap.

My recollection of the old cable cruise control like Subaru and Honda used in the 90s were they were vacuum controlled, so I don’t think it will be any good for anti lag as you will have no vacuum.

You donot need an external e-throttle relay for the plug-in ECUs. However you still need to assign a spare aux or virtual aux as e-throttle relay in the software for it to work. I have found the PID for the BA Falcon are usually very close for the common Bosch throttles.

With a standard CAN message you can only send a single frame per ID. Typically this is 8 bytes, Link allows longer frames but I don’t think the stack does (sometimes called DLC or data length code). To allow multiple frames to be sent with a single ID you use a compound message, in a compound message you use byte 0 as an index or indentifier. Stack call this a multiplexer. You can research how to construct a compound message yourself, there are examples in the help file such as the generic dash stream.

I suggest you follow CJ’s suggestions above, then if still a problem give us a log of a difficult start as that log file shows a very quick start so it is not useful for diagnosing your issue.

Yes it would be connected to a DI usually. The settings required will depend if the switch grounds or sends 12v to the DI.

in the attached log you start cranking the engine at 4.8seconds (batt voltage drops) and the engine is running at 1000rpm at 5.4seconds, so it took 0.6 of a second to start. Can you confirm what you mean by ""difficult to start"?

FYI, you can use the test calculator in pclink to see how each parameter is stored and used in the firmware. Example for TP below. 0-100% with a resolution of 0.1%, so you need 1000 "bits". If you weren't worried about the 0.1% resolution then you could just use a divider of 10 and send it as an 8bit value.

The VA8 is just used to generate a constant. VA8 cannot be used for anything else and must remain set to off for this to work. I can't confirm if the ODO works as I haven't had feedback from anyone on that. The cruise light wont work but everything else you mention should.

The updated CAN stream to suit the Ibiza and some other later VAG models is included in the next firmware release. I don’t think it is far away from release but if you need it now you can email [email protected]

I know of some people that have done this but it’s not a good option in my opinion. Having two separate ecu’s controlling things with no communication between them and little understanding of how the oem ecu controls things is bringing a lot of risk to the party. For instance if the oem ecu cuts fuel as a limiter but your port injectors are still squirting you are probably going to melt parts quickly. With port/DI combos there are many other scenarios where the timing difference between the two injection events can cause very lean cycles also. Fair enough if it’s a junk yard engine with not much value and you are prepared to learn by breaking things...

Correct, so with my suggested wiring you would have 3 injectors squirting at the same time, then 360deg later the other 3 squirt. With your present wiring you will have 4 injectors squirt together, then 360deg later 2 injectors squirt.

If the shifter position switch is connected to the ecu you can use the park/neutral step setting in the idle control settings to open the valve more when in gear. You should also be able to set up idle ignition control to help.

It should be configured as normal, 6cyl, 4 stroke. Set injection mode to multi-point group and injection rate to 1/2 cycle. Set ignition mode to wasted spark. Set trigger 2 sync mode to none. Coil pairing is correct but personally I would have wired the injectors individually cyl1-inj1, 2-2, 3-3 etc, as it would have given more even pressure pulsations in the fuel rail but it will still work as you have done.

What engine are we talking? Do you have a log of an over rev? Can you attach your tune?

It’s exactly the same process as doing a firmware update, just you choose an older version from the selection box. So, open up pc link but donot connect, if you use auto connect then just click ok to the pop up that tells you the software is version is too old or whatever. Then ecu controls>update firmware as per normal.