Adamw

I mean what model car is the plug-in for. WRX? Evo? Honda? All of them have different wiring and different functions available on the expansion connectors.

I suspect thats probably a bit low, usually, you will need lowest timing around your torque peak - so say 4-5000RPM, but as cylinder pressure drops at higher RPM you can ramp timing up towards redline. Example; Evo 4G63's on pump gas will often end up around 4-8deg at peak torque RPM, but maybe 15deg at redline.

The actual base position numbers look ballpark correct although the big jump between 50 & 60°C seems out of place. I suggest you give it a go yourself, follow the instructions below. Save a copy of the current map first so you can always load it back in if you make things worse. Once you have the base position table "tuned" you will find you will get better control by turning on and setting up the idle ignition control - but I suggest you get the base position right first.

Good spotting, I just tested it, it seems to work ok, just the labelling is wrong. 200 = 2.00g/cyl. The yellow table crosshair also uses the wrong scaling but the green active cell tracks correctly and the correct value does get pulled from the table. So it can be used until we get it fixed. I will add it to the list. Personally, I cant see MAF working well for accel since its quite a way downstream from the effect you are trying to correct for, but give it a try.

What model plug-in ECU do you have?

Yes, since we are not worried about the timing accuracy of the cam pulse, changing it to hall allows us to choose rising edge which is safely to the left of the crank missing teeth area.

That one is for AC only. You can get similar ones in DC versions but they need a big diode and heat sink to give reasonable life. I have used the Hella ones for fuel pumps before - they are rated at 22A continuous so should do that pump no worries. They also say they are ok for inductive loads so no need for a separate diode. https://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/relays-flashers/solid-state-relays/12v-4-pin-solid-state-relay-22a.html You need to supply the power to these from a separate relay that switches on/off with ignition.

Can you do us a triggerscope at about 5000RPM.

Both crank and cam are incorrect polarity in that capture. Also with the cam tooth being right in the middle of the crank gap could potentially be a problem. Set the trig 2 like below usually works best in this case (set as hall instead of reluctor):

I assume you are using the "cruise light" output? Unfortunately, this doesnt work at present, it was reported a few months back and is on the list of things to fix at the moment.

Connect the 2nd Fuel pump relay to any spare, aux, ign or inj output. Set up like below. Wiring info is in the help file under: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Auxiliary Output Wiring >Switching Through a Relay

I dont see any obvious signs of trigger error, but the first thing I would try (assuming it is still an evo4 engine) is change the trigger mode to Evo1-6, rather than the evo7-9 mode you are presently on.

Did you try setting your trig 2 lockout to something like 5000?

It needs to be tuned in modelled mode for the fuel gauge to work correctly. I have attached a map set up in modelled mode. I dont think you will be able to get the traction control working & light off, our test car didnt have traction control so I suspect there will be something missing from the data streams causing this. The snow button is connected to the ECU and can be used for other functions such as launch control etc. It is received into the ecu as CAN DIG 1. The lamp should still turn on and off with the button as far as I know. What do you mean by heater? It is not controlled by the ECU. You will need to tune everything properly before idle control will work well. G4+AltezzaLink Turbo Modeled Fuel (2).pclr

Can I get you to do another log, but set the logging activation to manual and leave it logging continuously until it faults. This log looks like it must have had some sort of automatic start/stop logging conditions set up and it has only just reconnected a couple of seconds before the e-throttle error happened, Im not sure I trust the first few seconds of a log after reconnection as there is a lot of data moving across the USB. If we can believe this log, it actually shows the Aux 9/10 voltage dropping to 2V, before the relay was turned off so that suggests a wiring problem but im not 100% confident that has been captured correctly due to the reconnection.

Hi Grimson, Unfortunately I got to your log a bit too late today and all the clever people have left the building already with just me left (Christmas holidays start today for most companies in NZ). Im lacking in GDI experience so arent going to be able to answer all of your query. Usually is it done by measuring the pump piston diameter and stroke, I dont know what strategy is used for "tuning" this setting without physical measurement however if that is what you are asking. I have a few GDI logs on my PC and from what I can see this is normal. It looks like it is a +ve number when rail pressure is below target and -ve when the rail pressure is higher than target. You can stop it from flashing red or orange by going to the parameters screen and adjusting the "Low soft warning value" and "low hard warning value".

Yep, looks like it. Pretty odd they dont have 1.2 on the outside of the box but nevermind. So as per Clint's post, the 1.2 can send data out over the same CAN port that it receives ECU data from, so you only need to connect AIM CAN1 to the ECU. I can still help with your set up once you are closer.

There is none of that showing in the log though, there is no "turning of the key", there is no engine running, there is no aux 9/10 fault. Its just 16 seconds of everything sitting static.

I think you have attached the wrong log, that log shows no pedal or throttle movement or errors at all. Can you also attach your tune file with your log when you have one.

Most likely the error 71&71 are "symptoms" rather than the cause of the problem. If there is any problem with the throttle system for long enough that the ECU thinks it could be a safety issue then it will shut off the E-throttle relay and you will get those errors as a result. Start by watching or logging the 3 related error accumulators, you can view them on the runtimes screen as shown below or log them. These will start counting up whenever there is a small error, if the error corrects itself they will count back down to zero. If any of these accumulators reach 100 then the safety strategy will be engaged (e-throttle powered down, RPM limited to 1800). It is acceptable to see these accumulators count up to say 5 or 10 under heavy throttle movement but if you are seeing any of them counting up higher than that then I would say it is this causing your issue and we need to look closer at what is causing that.

The knock pin is not connected, it will not work any other way except as per the instructions I have given you.

So you're going to run more than 44Psi boost? AN Volt 3 would need quite a bit of messing around to disconnect from the existing MAP and make it usable for an external device. Did you know you have AN 4 (o2 sensor) and AN2 (MAF) available on the header? I will send you a drawing later how to connect the knock.

This is the older MXS dash and the CAN output is one of the limitations I mentioned above. You can certainly still do what you ask - send GPS speed to the ECU, but the slightly disappointing fact is you cant send and receive on the same CAN port. So you need to connect both of the AIM CAN ports to the ECU, the ECU is happy to send and receive on the same port so you can connect both AIM ports to just one port at the ECU end. Once you have done that, attach your ECU and dash config here and I will set up the CAN side.

Unfortunately the knock pin is not connected on the VR4 ECU. You cannot connect it to any other input, it needs to be to the dedicated knock input. If you were willing and know someone that is reasonably capable with soldering I could give you some instructions on how to solder in a link wire to connect the knock pin to the knock input.