Adamw

Yep, it looks like you are using the built-in dash speed input. Go to the main channels tab and click on the channel named "speed", that will pop open a channel settings dialog where you can adjust the wheel circumference and pulses per rotation. If you dont know the pulses per rotation you can just do it by trial and error, adjust that number until the dash speed matches a GPS speed on your phone or something.

It sounds like you are adjusting the wrong thing. The throttle stop screw is on the throttle body near the throttle cable. It will usually have a little locknut on it and either a hex socket (allen key) or screwdriver slot for adjustment. Something like this:

The google drive link should work but it looks like you havent given it the correct permissions. Can you go to the sharing settings and set it to "anyone with link can edit"

Can you give us a picture of the screw you adjusted? When I was on teamviewer with you it only needed 0.5% throttle to bring the idle right so it should be doable. Since you have no idle valve connected there is nothing else we can adjust.

The EFR sensor has a divide by 8 circuit already built in.

I actually think *3338 shouldnt be on the website still. *3338b is the correct one. From memory *3338 had problems connecting to old firmware. For best resolution it is better to have a smaller master and bigger values in the fuel table. The main thing you want to avoid is really small numbers in the fuel table - say if your biggest number is 30% you are going to struggle to tune idle. The general advice is pick a master fuel that gives you numbers around 50% in the middle of your fuel table. Correct, they are basically the same, just using the trim you can get a finer adjustment.

Ok, can you attach your dash config then. In RS3 go to the configurations tab then click export.

No, provided the valve still changes the idle speed when you change DC then it will be fine left as it is. Some valves for instance will not close any further once you go below 25% DC, so if you can still bump idle up or down by changing the commanded DC when you are down at say 15% then it sounds like it is fine to leave it as is.

No, I dont see any way you will be able to get a DC servo motor to control idle air with our ECU. Most engines I do are ITB and I dont bother with any idle valve. Typically you can get pretty decent idle control just using ignition only. Set it up so normal warm idle uses quite retarded ignition (say about 0), that means the throttle blade needs to be set open quite a way to achieve a normal idle speed. Set up the idle ignition table with ECT on one axis so that when its cold it runs about 20deg more timing than when hot. Thats usually enough to get it to cold idle own its own with no driver input.

If you mean the lean spikes below every time you move the throttle, then yes I would say that is accel enrichment related. I would change the "accel hold" to 6 events and bump the load correction up a bit. Try something like this:

I have never personally used them but they are available. Get the shortest one you can get away with as USB generally doesnt like more than about 2M total. Note the Atom is Mini USB, not Micro. http://www2.usbfirewire.com/Parts/rr-114210-07-xx.html http://www.l-com.com/usb-waterproof-usb-mini-b-5-position-cable-assemblies-revision-20-compliant-ip67-rated https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-USB-2-0-Panel-Mount-Connector-IP67-Waterproof-Cable-1m-3ft-Mini-USB-Male-to/32846078552.html

It would be dTP/sample. I only have a vague recollection that the sampling frequency for TP is 500Hz but I would need to confirm that with engineering as I dont remember clearly. So if deadband is set to 1% and the throttle moved more than 1% within 1/500seconds then it would be triggered. 0.5-1.5% would be typical deadband numbers I am used to seeing. Im not sure of this. I have never really needed to know this info so it is not something I have a lot of knowledge about. I suspect it is just an arbitrary unitless "factor" but I will see if I can get any more info from engineering if it is easy to understand. You can log or watch the parameter "Accel fuel" to get a pretty good idea of where it is working and how much fuel it is adding, I dont normally need any more info than that to get it working well enough.

When set to TP mode the trigger will be rate of change of TP. The setting "Accel sens" adjusts how much enrichment is added for a given rate of change.

As per Decs comment, dont even bother with the AC idle up, our ECU can just open the PWM valve more when AC kicks in.

I think from memory these are a two wire switch? If so, connect like this:

Your diagram is wrong if you are using a common mac valve such as 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA, The pressure source should be connected to port 1 (normally closed), and the wastegate dome to port 2. You show the opposite in your drawing which would mean the wastegate would see no pressure source at all - it would be dumped straight to atmosphere.

I agree, that looks completely usable to me.

Yep, thats how it works and they will all work happily on top of each other. I dont have any NOS experience but here is how my logic would approach it: Lets say you have 600HP without NOS, to add another 150HP you will need about 25% more oxygen, so I would add about 25% more fuel in this example. I would also set up some logic in my aux output conditions so that NOS is cut as some as any engine limiters are active to minimise the risk of a backfire.

I have little experience with this particular model but just as a general comment your dwell times look significantly higher than typical for a small COP coil. So with little other clues to go I think it is worth a try to drop them back to something more typical.

Switch wiring can either be to ground or to 12V: Set up example to switch ignition table below. I doubt that you would need to switch the fuel table if the only difference is octane but it can be done the same way if you wish:

Log and map will be easier than everybody guessing.

I have never heard on isopropanol being used as a fuel, I know some "fuel stabilisers" use it but I suspect that is only to solubilise any water/contamination in the tank. If you have 99+% isopropanol it could boost octane a little but it is not good as ethanol. Most consumer level isopropanol is only about 70% (30% water) so that wouldnt be useful as a fuel at all if thats what you have. You would probably be better to look for Toluene or similar if you want to mix your own as a relatively small concentration can make a decent difference.

The SR20 distributor usually has an internal ignitor. Does your one not match the pinout below in the help file?

Hi Antonie, It sounds like when the cams move the tooth or feature on the cam wheel that we are referencing to sync from must move across to the other side of the gap so the ecu loses sync. If I remember right your engine has a custom trigger wheel and it may be in a slightly different place to where it normally is. Do you have a two channel oscilloscope so we can get a capture of the crank and cam signals when the engine is running? I will PM you a picture and a bit more info about the trigger pattern.

Yes that is the exact injector we sell.