Adamw

Ok, trigger scope looks good. I dont see any anything else obvious however I would start by turning off the whole lot of the extra tables you have enabled just to eliminate an odd value hiding in one of them somewhere. So as a test, turn off the six individual ignition trim tables, the 6 injector trim tables, the knock control, the transient retard, the 2nd fuel and ign tables, and turn off the VVT. Go back to a basic, simple config and get it running ok first, then you can enable this stuff once the problem is known.

Yep, depending on what ecu is connected or what basemap is loaded, PC link will hide settings that arent relevant to that particular hardware. For instance if you have a Monsoon connected the traction control and knock control settings shouldnt be visible. Hiding the highside drive setting was one they missed originally. It has been fixed in 5.6.6 whenever that finally comes. Im not sure if those notes from help file have been changed though so I better add that to the list.

They are size 20 DTM. Note if you are still getting errors when connected to a standalone jumper pack not attached to the car at all (except CAN) then I dont think we can blame it on a dirty power supply anymore. Im leaning toward you having a faulty unit.

That is the part number for the gauge cup, it doesnt tell me much about the device you have. The common AEM wideband controllers are 30-4110, 30-4100, 30-5130, 30-0300. Look these up online and tell me which one yours looks like.

I mean part number of the AEM device.

The monsoon doesn’t have highside drives, you will have to change wiring.

It needs to be connected to an analog (AN Volt) input, not an Aux output. If you tell us the part number of the device you have I will give some example settings.

The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf

Your basic settings look alright. Does it show stable and realistic RPM in the software when you are cranking? If not, my first suspicion would be the arming thresholds are too high - the Toyota dizzys put out quite low voltage at cranking speeds. So I would put 0.2V in the 0RPM cell and 0.5V in the 1000RPM cell in both trig 1 & 2 arming threshold tables.

Yep they should be fine.

I dont see anything obvious after a quick look. I think it will be worth doing a triggerscope (just at idle will do) to confirm there are no problems there. You have 14.5 deg in the ignition table 1, -1 IAT trim, and -5 from traction control (suggest you turn off traction control since you dont have a non-driven wheel speed).

What you show above is actually more like 0.2 of a second. When I look at your log the RPM seems to respond well to throttle movement, for instance everytime you lift off to change gear etc we see RPM drop straight away. The example you show above appears to be due to the car going down a hill as we see the MAP go all the way down to very strong vacuum (20KPa).

Im not quite sure what you are asking but if you mean the orange/red colouring then for dial gauges you can do that in the gauge properties by choosing the manual settings mode. Example below. For other display types you do it in the parameters properties.

Is this a plug-in ECU? Have you tried the ignition test to make sure all coils are connected/sparking? Do you have stable RPM showing in the software when cranking?

I have no experience with VirtualBox but I would say it is an openGL problem. It will need OpenGL 2.1 and from a quick google it seems VirtualBox either doesnt support this or is flakey.

Yes, assuming that jumper pack can be forced to stay on that will be a good test.

If you are using our plug-in ECU then the cam solenoid is connected to Aux 1. Set up like this:

I have just replied to your other thread, I think it will be easier to keep troubleshooting all in the one post.

Ok, so you still have error 16 present. So I understand you now have power via a relay direct from the battery? Have you removed the original wires? Is there anything odd in this car like the battery moved to the boot or anything? Do you have another separate battery or a jumper pack or something that you could try powering the CAN lambda from as a test?

Yes, the same setting is available in two different places, you only need to adjust one and the other will change at the same time. It depends if you are using open loop or closed loop. If using open loop the base position table tells the idle valve how far open to be, the idle target table has no effect. In open loop mode the idle target table is only used for idle ignition control. In closed loop mode the base position table is the starting position that the idle valve jumps to when idle conditions are first met, then the closed loop control will take over and adjust the valve position further if needed to make the RPM match the idle target. The idea is the base position table can quickly get the idle valve somewhere close to where it needs to be then the closed loop only needs to make small corrections. There are instructions in the help file how to tune idle control. I suggest you start in open loop mode to build a good base position table. Follow this page in help: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control >Open Loop ISC. Are you seeing this drift when the "set base timing" screen is open (so timing is locked)? What ECU do you have?

Obviously no electronics can reduce the boost below whatever value the wastegate spring opens at. You will get whatever the engine airflow is capable of producing. If you think you have more boost coming in lower RPM than it used too then it is possibly too retarded or lean?

We typically only publish the user configurable stuff as that is all an end user should need with a plug-in ecu that is designed to work with a factory loom. As Brad says, if anyone needs more info for troubleshooting etc they should get in touch with Link Tech support. I have PM'ed you a bit more detail.

It is better to attach the actual log file rather than a screenshot, cant tell much from what is shown above.

Did you watch the video? You havent clicked "add all" so you havent recorded much that is useful. If I were to hazard a guess I would say it is your overrun fuel cut too active. Turn it off and see it it helps. Otherwise, please watch the video again and follow all steps.

Your Intake cams appear to control well once the oil is warm but are a bit unstable when cold. You may be able to improve this using a higher/lower minimum and max clamp when cold and posibly reducing Proportional gain a little more. I would try min max clamps like this: For the exhaust cams, have you tried even less proportional? Like say about 1.5?