Adamw

I believe the cranking position is hardcoded. There was another post on here somewhere (cant find it now) where someone else with a supercharger had a similar problem. I assume it is because you've got a really large volume of air in the plenum and superchager case that takes a bit longer than normal to evacuate once the engine starts? If you want to see how much effect the idle valve has just try it with it unplugged.

I agree with most others here, stay away from Innovate, some get lucky but the majority dont. 2 main issues with them; no analog ground so you will usually have to mess around with calibration to fudge the offset, often short sensor life or sensitivity to EGT due them controlling the sensor pump and heater completely different than it was designed to be. AEM X-Series is a good option if you want a built-in gauge. You can use a CAN bus gauge although these do add a significant cost. But they can do other cool stuff such as display multiple parameters, alarms, etc. https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html https://gaugeart.com/product/gaugeart-can-gauge/

If it is asking for an unlock code then you have a G4+, not a G4. You need to contact the dealer you purchased it of for the unlock code. They will need the serial number off you so get that noted down.

Yes, you should be using the Evo 9 map, not Evo 4-8. Load our Evo9 map in.

If ECU hold power is on that would suggest there is no ignition switch signal on DI6. Can you look at the DI6 runtime and tell us if that says active with the key on? For the fan, I suspect your car may have the extra "high speed fan" on ign 7. Try setting ign 7 to Engine fan 2, set polarity to high and make sure fan 2 temp settings are something suitable.

That was what I was initially hinting at but I have just looked at our schematic again and noticed both DI1 and DI5 have the same pull-down resistor fitted so thats not going to achieve anything and now Im confused about how it works. I think I need to find a factory wiring diagram.

I think Scotts comment above should probably have said "-20", not 20 (+20 would be 20BTDC). Its pretty common to see more than -20deg retard (absolute) so Scott probably thought that was a reasonable starting point to suggest. 20-40ATDC is what I see in most maps I look at from other users/tuners etc. By all means it is fine to start off more conservative than that. I find it easier to use the absolute mode rather than degrees as then the main ignition table and other trims dont have an influence as boost starts to build etc.

An input that is not connected to anything is called a "floating input", if there is no load connected to either "pull down" to zero volts or "pull up" to an elevated level then the pin will float at some indeterminate value. So it seems whatever is connected to that DI1 pin just goes "open circuit" when turned off so the ecu cant determine if it is high or low. Can you also check if the voltage level on pin 11 (DI5) changes with AC on/off? I see we have a special pull down resistor connected to that pin so it may be that we need to move the wire from DI1 to DI5

Hi Martin, Im sorry to hear you have been messed around. I have tried to follow up what happened today. Unfortunately I think some of the message has been mixed up along the way between NZ and UK. We originally got the message from your dealer (Ind***) that the face plate was missing, we had 6 spare in our UK office so couriered all of those to him about 3 weeks ago, we assumed 1 was for you and he was going to pass it on? Are you able to contact him and retreive one yourself, or do you want me to get one of our sales guys in the UK to retreive one and get it to you?

It very much sounds like quicktune wasnt doing anything at all and you were probably just moving into a cell that is too small. In manual mode it wont make any adjustment until it has been centred on the cell you want to adjust within the set centre tolerance and the stabalise time has elapsed, the status will then only change to "ready". Once it says ready you then have to hit F10 again and it will only then try to adjust anything. It will only adjust that one cell, if you move out of that cell centre it will stop adjusting and you then go back to "waiting" mode and you have to push F10 again to start any adjustment happening. I think we will only see what is going on with a log.

You can connect up to 8 CAN Lambdas and 5 other CAN devices all to the same CAN port - the only limitation is they must all talk at the same bit rate. All of the devices mentioned above have user configurable bit rates so you are fine to connect them all to the same CAN bus. Our ECU will not be able to drive the coils directly, you will need some type of ignitor/amplifier.

I think your dwell is a bit excessive for the 1NZ coils. I notice they get very hot quickly with anything more than about 2.1ms at normal running voltage. Try something like below. It would also pay to log dwell time to confirm that the actual dwell matches what is commanded in the table. If for instance you have a trigger problem you can end up with dwell scatter.

When you say "autotune" I assume you mean quicktune right? Were you using manual or auto mode? Did you hit F10 to start it working? What did the status text show - waiting, lockout or target reached? Was it changing the numbers in the fuel table? Your basic map settings look ok. I cant see what quicktune settings you were using as they are stored in the PC. The only reason the quicktune would remove fuel is if the measured lambda was richer than the target lambda. Your target lambda table looks ok, so my first thought is possibly the quicktune hadnt actually been started. As far as I can see none of the higher load sites have been adjusted at all. Can you try again but do a log at the same time and attach here.

Example below. If using openloop boost control this table just adds or removes duty cycle from the main wastegate table, in closed loop mode you also have another table to change boost target based on gear. Note also most of the 3D table axes are flexible so for instance you might just want to put gear position on one axis of the main wastegate table, then you only need to mess around on one table. 2nd option:

Yes but that is connected via CAN bus. The original poster wants a button in PC Link.

I suggest you download the software and have a play around in the Xtreme base map. Note you cant have a completely different "boost map" for each gear but we do have a "Boost Gear Wastegate trim table", this allows you to add or remove boost (commanded from the main table) based on what gear it is in. If you want completely separate boost tables then you can have a maximum of three and they could be switched via gear position or speed or whatever else you like. Accelerometers would be set up as a GP Input and use a cal table to convert it into some meaningful numbers. We dont have "g" units as a selection but you could use "g/s" or something like that instead.

Can you point out where? I had a quick look and it seems to match to me...

I would calculate it like this: If your measured lambda was 0.61(9:1AFR). Lets say your target was typical NA target of 0.87. So 0.61/0.87 = 0.70 (i.e need to remove 30%). New master fuel = 20 x 0.70 = 14ms.

Yes download the latest PC Link from our website, that contains the latest firmware, then do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u54915wuLYc Yes, Lambda/AFR will show 0 if the sensor is in error condition.

It doesnt look like there is anyway to set that up in the MXL from what I can see in Race Studio 2. The ECU can certainly interpret your analog input as PRND... and send it out over CAN bus but it looks like AIM can only display it as a number between 0 & 8.

No from a functionality perspective, just it might be distracting to the driver to see a flash of zero and the logs wont look as nice. Yep you could do that too but I havent needed to on the cars I have played with. You are not going to hurt it with a few test shifts so try it and see. If it is not cutting for long enough it either wont engage or you will get a big clunk.

You are correct, the tolerance setting will affect the point at which torque reintroduction occurs. Which option is correct will depend on how fussy the gearbox is but you may have to put up with a short period of "gear zero" in between gears if reintroducing torque while it is still shifting causes a problem. My gut feeling is since you have six gears + R & N, the spacing between each barrel position is close enough that it will be perfectly happy with a fairly big volt tolerance there. I have tuned a couple of cars with closed loop gear cut systems and in those I have a big enough tolerance that we dont really see gear zero at all during a shift.

Have you both already tried setting the DI to use the opposite edge? In the R32 it is common for the reed switch at the back of the speedo to get sticky, sometimes swapping the edge can give you a better signal. If not you will have to connect a scope to the DI so we can see why the ECU is not happy with the signal.

ABS will be fine, unfortunately traction control I cannot answer confidently. I think probably it will be fine but as far as I know none of the cars we tested on in-house had traction control. I do not see any reports of traction control warning lamp problems in our tech support system. The ECU has saturated injector drives so it is intended to drive high impedance injectors. You would have to add a ballast resistor if you wanted to run low impedance.

Yes, our naming convention make this a little more confusing than it was in the G4 the first time you do it. Below is how you would set up a virtual aux that activates when DI1 is on and DI2 is off. The important bit that you probably missed is the bits I have highlighted in pink.