Adamw

Start at more like 50kpa. It looks like your wastegate DC table might need some work too. Did you tune it in open loop first?

A solenoid will open instantly to match whatever DC is applied to it. For gear you should be using the park/neutral step so it instantly gets extra DC applied rather than waiting for CL to react.

Integral is used to remove "long term offset". So because your boost was sitting above the target for a reasonable period of time the integral tries to correct it. -ve integral means it is reducing wastegate DC. After a quick look at you log I notice stage 1 is never initiated, I think this means you have probably got too much proportional trying to make up for it so thats why you get the overshoot. The reason for the Stage 1 not working I suspect will be "stage 2 on" setting too high. Read note below to make sure you understand how that works:

You can repurpose a couple of inputs on the main header. Here's a few that probably arent being used: AN Volt 3, Pin 51, was originally for the MAF AN Volt 10, Pin 35, was originally for the RF narrowband oxy. AN Volt 11, Pin 16, was originally for the LF narrowband oxy.

Did you try the WRX/STI jumpers in both positions? It sounds like your ECU is not powered up

There is not many obvious signs of trigger error in these last 3 logs so it quite possibly is some sort of ignition interference at higher loads. Are the coils grounded to the cylinder head? Resistor spark plugs? Is there anything unusual about the grounding in this car such as battery moved to the boot or something?

No its not a percentage of the number in the fuel table, it is a percentage of the final calculated pulsewidth. So it includes master fuel and MAP etc. So lets say both your engine and his engine had the fuel tables tuned so they where both idling at 1.0lambda. But your fuel table had numbers of 80 in it and his had numbers of 20. If both had the crank enrichment set to 20% then you would get 20% extra fuel and your lambda would be 0.8 on both engines - the different fuel table numbers have no effect. No rule of thumb but especially at lower temps the difference is large. Say you will typically need 2 times more enrichment with E85 compared to petrol.

Ok so if you only have a startup problem then you shouldnt be messing with your main fuel table. I would be looking at pre-crank prime, crank enrichment and maybe check if IAT is seeing a "heat soak" effect during warm starts.

No, a smaller number means less enrichment (less fuel, leaner). Post start enrichment is only active for a few seconds after start up so it is unlikely this table is your problem so forget about that for now. It sounds more like your warmup enrichment table needs work.

Im not quite understanding what you are trying to achieve here. Somebody elses fuel map is not going to be useful to you, you are meant to just tune yours until the measured lambda is running close to the target under all operating conditions. The staged injection setup should not affect the numbers in the main fuel table or the amount of fuel injected provided the sec/pri ratio setting is correct.

I think they are commonly referred to as "R8 coils", there's a couple of revisions and I believe the later one is preferable, I dont have any part numbers though. We dont really see them down here in NZ but they are a popular choice in Europe. Attached below is a CAN stream file to aid setup. First setup the CAN mode tab like my pic below, then go to the Streams tab, highlight stream1 and click on "load stream", then browse for this .lcs file attached here. Microtech EGT Use ID24.lcs

You can do either, often easier to change it while it is running - then you can just bump it up or down until it runs best.

The aux output is off until the engine is cranking, it instantly jumps to 80% when cranking. For the Bosch 3 wire solenoid "off" is not actually closed - it defaults to a slightly open condition. I think most people would get pissed off if we made it click away when the engine wasnt turning.

This is the type of thing that would normally be used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292427582383 You definitely have trigger errors but it is hard to tell if it is due to interference or some other problem. Im not sure how much we can rely on the built-in triggerscope to show good detail of the Nissan 360 slot trigger at high RPM - I think it is possibly a bit beyond its capabilities. I think the trigger voltage dropping away at higher RPM is due to the filter. Trigger 1 filter should be set to 1 for high tooth count wheels - can you confirm you have it set to 1? If not can you do another 5000RPM triggerscope but with trig 1 filter set at 1. Did you try switching on low resolution mode?

No sorry, the G4 ecu didnt have CAN receive - only transmit.

Try unplugging or blocking the ISC valve temporarily just to prove it is the startup DC causing the problem, then once we know for sure we can see what options we have to improve it.

You can input GPS speed from a CAN bus device. Here is one example: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/gps-module Note however GPS is not useful for traction control, even if it has a fast update rate (say 100Hz). While they can be quite accurate once the car is moving at high speed, during standing starts especially there is a large lag before the GPS detects movement. Some of the high-end ones combine accelerometers and use math to improve the low-speed performance but I have no experience with them. I have seen logs from a drag race car that had a 50Hz high accuracy GPS and even with that there was something like a ~0.3sec lag for the first 100M or so, in this case it was only being used to control boost so worked fine but it would not be usable for wheel slip calculations.

Have a read through PC Link help file subject "PCLink G4+ Users Manual", that has some of the basics covered. We have a very dated video from G4 days but it may still be worth a watch as much of it still applies to G4+: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hb04S07IA0& Otherwise HP Academy have a course: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/link-g4-plus-software-tutorial/

It certainly is not as good as modern stuff but there should be no reason you cant get it to run and start reasonably if tuned correctly. You will just need to find someone who is interested in tuning it, at least it is PC tunable.

That sounds like we must have one of the polarity settings wrong on one of the fan aux outputs. Try swapping polarities on the fan auxes one at a time and see if you can work it out.

My understanding was a CDI coil had lower inductance so you would get a weaker/shorter spark than a normal inductive coil if you are running inductive ignition. Or are you talking about installing a complete CDI system to drive the CDI coils also?

No you dont specifically need to go to a sensor ground on the B connector for 5 & 6. They are very low current (mA) so you can just splice all 6 together near the coils somewhere and run only one wire back to the ecu.

Is this a new install or has it just started playing up? Does it just drop comms or does it not start either? You can set up ECU logging to record batt voltage so you can see whats going on during cranking without beieng connected.

How fast where the wheels turning when you tried? It may just be that they havent reached the threshold for the DI.

The correct wiring for the LS coils is to run the signal ground back to the ECU sensor ground. I have seen many do as you say and connect both the power and signal ground together directly to the head but that is not ideal and could potentially cause random sparks. The reason is the transistor on these coils is quite sensitive so you only need about a 1V offset between the signal ground wire and the trigger wire to cause the coils to start charging. So the idea is if the signal ground is connected to the ecu sensor ground then it is referencing the same ground as the ignition output (no offset).