Adamw

You are probably best to discuss this with your tuner. Antilag is not very practical for a road car, you will need non-vacuum assisted brakes etc. It sounds like possibly a tune issue to me, I would expect the S300 to be excessively laggy. Your tune file is password protected.

No that looks about it.

They can be positive or negative, it just depends on whether the injector squirts more or less fuel than the "straight line" curve would predict. For instance if you look at ID1000 data the adders are all positive on the other hand the data for the ID1050X injector is mostly negative.

Correct, on this particular ECU the purge valve is not connected either.

From a pinout perspective you have it mostly right, the only two that dont look right are the launch and boost control "dials", these would most likely be analog 0-5V signals so these should be connected to analog inputs, not digital.

To confirm it is actually a direct dash input, can you check in the ECU runtimes screen (F12) if any of the wheelspeeds show any speed when you are driving.

You are not alone, missing tooth trigger waveforms catch a lot of people out as they kind of look opposite to what is intuitive. A quick way to pick correct polarity is the trace will be rising through the "gap". The two above are falling through the gap. The part that is important to the ECU is it triggers when a edge falls through the zero line. Below is a 24-2 triggerscope with the sensor wired correctly, I have marked the edges that fall through zero near the gap. Notice the spacing between the pink edges on each side of the gap are about twice the width to the teeth preceding and following, this is our -2 teeth. Now below is a 24-2 triggerscope from an engine with the sensor wired backwards. Notice now if we look at the edges that fall through zero we now have an odd "tooth" in the middle of the gap - and the gap is no longer 2 teeth wide, its more like 1.5 teeth. With a 24-2 wheel the ECU expects to see 22teeth per rev, however with the sensor wired backwards it will see 23 teeth per rev. The ECU will freakout every time it sees this "extra" tooth.

The pressure exchange solenoid is not connected to anything inside our ECU. MAP sensor should be routed direct to manifold via the shortest route possible, preferably with nothing tee'd of it.

Its possible but error 16 is usually power supply related.

trig 1 multitooth position should be set to cam. If you use the ignition test function do all coils spark? Do you have ignition mode set to direct spark?

The “find devices” tab is only used for Link CAN Lambda’s, it will no show other devices.

Not ideal. CAN bus is not meant to be a star point configuration, it is meant to be a single longitudinal bus or "trunk" with termination at both ends of the bus and only short nodes splicing off the bus. The node stubs are meant to be less than 200mm so if everything connected to your "hub" is within 200mm it will be ok. The other problem is those connectors are only rated at 2A per pin. That may be ok for some low power devices but for instance our CAN lambda can pull up to 8A for a short time.

It would offer no benefit with this ECU. I would go for a standalone wideband controller/gauge and just use that as visual feedback to any tuning changes or diagnostics.

I would go direct to battery as a test, if that works try the isolator. There is no EGT set up in your map.

In your 2nd triggerscope picture (bottom) the cam sensor is correct polarity but the crank sensor is wrong in both pics. So it looks like you need to swap the +/- wires on the crank sensor. In the 2nd pic the cam sensor is outputing very low voltage so you may also need to set the trig 2 arming threshold quite low in the zero and 1000RPM cells. try 0.3V@0rpm and 0.5V@1000RPM.

They are LTW mini series. Male plug is AU-06BFFA-LL7001. Mating receptacle options below. They are solder cups only unless you by the over-moulded cables. Personally if I were going to do this I would probably pick something more common such as a 2pin DTM. You can even get 2 pin DTM CAN splitters and terminators off-the-shelf.

Ok, Im going to have to give your trigerscope to engineering so they can check if it will work with any of our existing trigger modes. Unfortunately it is a public holiday here today so I wont have any further news until Monday. Can you try the Holden V6 Alloytec II trigger mode in the meantime, I dont see much difference between the two from the info I have available but they may use different sync points so its worth a shot.

There is a basic guide for that valve in the help file, copy below. The only thing I dont quite agree with in this document is they usually need the minimum clamp set to more like 20%, they actually start to open again below about 15%. Not all of them have the adjustment screw that is mentioned but they do usually work best if the throttle blade is adjusted so that normal hot idle is somewhere around 50%DC.

Ok, your cam teeth are in a different place to where they normally are on a TT. For the "Cam Level" sync mode to work the cam voltage needs to be high during one missing tooth gap then low voltage for the next the missing tooth gap, in your scope below you can see the cam trace (green line) is low for both missing tooth areas so its not going to work. Try the Holden V6 Alloytec III trigger mode, it looks like this might work for you. You will need to set trig 1 to reluctor after changing to that mode and set base timing again.

You might have to ask them what is going on there. The one I attached was the GM data. The Link one seems wrong to me to have a non-zero adder at zero pulsewidth...

done.

You can wire the temp sensor to Expansion 1, one pin to the sensor ground wire, the other pin to temp 3 or temp 4. For the boost solenoid you can either get a second expansion loom and connect it to either ign 7 or 8, or the other option would be to run a new wire down to the main ECU header and connect it to the pin that is normally used for boost control (pin 25). For a map just use our GTS base map and adjust the master fuel to allow for the injector size.

Open up the parameters pop out, then navigate to the AN Volt input you are using, right click and chose properties, you will get a screen like below. The "warning value" is the value that turns the gauge orange and the "error value" is the value that turns the gauge red.

The reason we havent allowed linear calibrations on the temp inputs is because resistance based sensors usually arent linear. This is the first time I have heard of a linear temp sensor. That calibration looks really odd with only a 1.1V range? For the HT-010304 coolant temp sensor that matches the link/Delphi calibration so just set that to "Link NTC1-8 & IAT 1-8"

I dont think you will need anti-lag to make a "crackle", you just need to play more with fuel and spark. It is not something I have ever wanted to do so dont have any experience but I expect you would need it to be quite lean and retarded, try pulling fuel out of your fuel table in the high vacuum area.