Adamw

Yes, this model is on our list of supported vehicles for this ecu. The only other important consideration is it must be a manual gearbox, our ecu does not support the automatic transmission.

Have the fuel and ignition tables already been tuned? Is the air-fuel ratio reasonably well controlled? Accel enrichment doesnt normally need much work from our default settings but as a quick test you can try increasing the Accel Sens. setting. It is currently set to 15 in your map, try 30 and 45.

Yeah that is definitely not one of our cables by the looks.

Sorry, I should have looked closer, I missed the CAN Lambda. It is showing error code 16, which is usually caused by poor power supply. You will need to get that looked at, make sure it gets its power from a source that is capable of at least 8A (and wires are big enough), and sometimes they can be upset if connected to the same source as something that generates a lot of inductive noise such as a idle valve or VVT solenoid. You should update firmware to 5.6.5, in that we added an improvement so that the CLL is disabled anytime the CAN Lambda is in error so that will prevent this issue from happening in the future.

The V4 WRX just uses a 3 wire solenoid valve, not a stepper motor, so the Monsoon will do that fine.

There's no signs of trigger issues in your log but if the trigger-scope pic above is how your current alignment looks, I would leave trig 1 on falling but change trig 2 to rising. Most of the random spikes of knock level in your log appear to me when you transition from over-run to drive. Could it be some mechanical backlash noise like a multi-plate clutch or straight cut gears, play in driveshaft splines,etc? Does anything go "clunk" when you go from off-throttle to on-throttle? Also, I suggest you upgrade your firmware to 5.6.5 as there were several improvements made to knock control in 5.6.5.

Yes, also the Storm has 2 connectors, so potentially more wiring.

So it should work then? How about at the fuel pump relay, measure voltage between the LT GRN & WHT/BLU wires while using the Test function in the ecu. You should see near 0V with the aux output set to off, and near 12V with the aux output set to "Test (on)".

Yes it should allow it to run. With a bit of luck yes. You should still calibrate and test every input/output as per the start-up guide in the manual. That would be the easiest option. I think I already emailed you the other day about this same subject. This is the easy option, not the most correct option. Leaving the coils/injectors wired incorrectly and fudging the firing order in the software will allow it to run but if things like individual cylinder trims and knock control are used it will be very confusing or possibly wont work properly.

This thread has all the info you need:

The best resource is the help file in PCLink as its searchable and has table of contents etc. We no longer do PDF versions as they were too big and difficult to use, the last PDF version I have is 3 years old so doesnt have the Monsoon in it.

One problem I see is closed loop lambda is enabled but there is no Lambda sensor assigned so the CLL is adding 10% fuel all the time. 10% may not sound like a lot but you if it was originally tuned to say .9Lambda at idle then with +10% you are at 0.8Lambda which would be in the territory where plugs could foul. I suggest tuning the CLL off for now. HKS made an aftermarket VVT kit for the RB26 "HKS Vcam", from the setup it looks like it is running one of these.

Yep, CJ has it right here, Aux 9/10 & 17/18 are the only ones connected to the E-throttle driver. For the analog inputs, as well as the slightly reduced voltage range, AV13-16 are also sampled with a lower priority so I suspect that is why safety critical sensors cannot be assigned.

There are no shared pins on the Monsoon so you can use all 6 Aux outputs and 4 DI's at the same time. Also if you run wasted spark ignition you can assign any spare ignition drives to work as aux outputs if you run short. Be aware the main thing missing from the Monsoon compared to the LEM G3 is the monsoon cant do a stepper motor idle valve, it can do solenoid type only.

One attached below is not from a running engine but one I built to get someone else going, it will be a reasonable starting point. It is from an Xtreme but will load into a Thunder no worries. No E-throttle set up in this map, I dont know if the VY commodore has DBW? LS1 Sample Start up.pclr

You will be able to get some improvement with a Link as you will be able to use idle ignition control, however that is not going to be a complete solution, for good road car manners, cold start etc, you really need to be able to bypass some air, that can be via DBW or an idle valve. It maybe an easy option to fit a common Bosch idle valve somewhere.

I've had a quick look over your log. I think your MAP signal looks usable as is. A couple of thoughts: Set up the CLL lockouts so it is disabled at idle, it looks like that is chasing its tail a bit. You only have 0° advance at idle, most engines would be happier with a bit more than that, try 10-15. Your injector timing is at 540°, that is a bit unusual, most engines with the injector close to the valve will work best around 380/400 at idle. Try shifting it in say 30deg steps an see if it improves anything. Also, there are no indications of trigger issues in the log but just to confirm I would get a timing light on it, lock the ignition timing (open the set base timing screen) and just watch that the ignition timing is relatively stable at idle. If for intnace the crank sensor was wired back to front it will bounce +/-10deg once every revolution when the gap goes past.

I already have a wiring diagram for this model. Have you checked there is 12V on the white/blu wire (comes from the main relay) at the fuel pump relay?

Without a lambda connected we are shooting in the dark but comparing to a couple of other RB maps your warm up enrichment table has a lot smaller numbers in it especially around the 10-30deg region which would be a common cold start temp. So try the attached map, I have just copied our default warmup enrichment table into it. You can always change back to your map above if it doesnt improve. JOHNBROWNR32GTST warm up enrichment changed.pclr

The "premium throttle kit" just sounds like a bad idea to me. It appears it just disconnects the motor so that the throttle is no longer electronic, it is controlled by cable only. The Altezza uses the electronic throttle to control the idle so as you have found with this device fitted you will have no control of idle. With a Link ECU fitted you will be able to make some adjustments to improve idle (idle ignition control) but it is not going to work as well as the factory setup with electronic throttle. If it were me I would remove the premium kit and fix the original electronic throttle.

Then it should work if your wiring is correct. To test you can pull the 3N wire out of the plug and touch it on ground, if wiring is ok then the fuel pump should turn on.

Is the Aux 5 polarity set to low and the driver type set to lowside?

As I said in my reply above, it is fine to connect two injectors in parallel direct to drive. 7ohm load is only going to need 2A, the drives can supply 5A. You do not need any resistors.

Yes that will be fine. The injector drives are good for 5A continuous each, so you can probably have 4 or 5 common high impedance injectors per drive. Edit, I found you had posted in both G4 and G4+ sections so moved it here.

Sorry for the slow reply, I wanted to do some more testing with an engine simulator to confirm that this trigger mode works correctly since it is fairly new and has only been tested on one other engine that I know of. I can confirm it seems to work properly for me. Going off your last trigger scope your signal looks good and I dont see any reason why it shouldnt work. If I calculate RPM manually from your triggerscope it appears your engine is cranking at about 400RPM. Can you try this: Set the triggermode to something completely different - say mitsubishi Evo 1-6. Store. Turn ECU off & on again. Change trig mode back to K6A and reluctor. Store, then try cranking. I have seen cases in the past where after changing trigger settings they dont initialise properly, changing it to something different then back again may fix it. Can you also confirm your teeth positions are close to my angles below: