Adamw

Theres a couple of odd settings in your attached map, nothing I think that will prevent it from running but may make it more difficult to tune. In fuel main, set equation load source to Load=MAP. Turn the open loop lambda table on. Turn knock control off. I notice your MAP sensor is set to "V9", is that correct? What size injectors does it have? After making these changes, can you do a short PC Log of it cranking and attach it here. Video showing how to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Wiring would be as per my pic below. CAN Lambda gets spliced into the same CAN wires as the new OBD2 socket. Not only will the ECU need to be set up but the CAN Lambda will need to be programmed to talk at the correct bitrate (there is a tool in PC Link to do this). The ECU will broadcast data to the OBD2 port, where it goes from there will depend what you plug into the socket. You can find a list of the data channels that are broadcast in the PC Link help file, Navigation: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN >OBD (On Board Diagnostics). No it will need to be powered by a relay connected to the battery as per its instruction manual. You will need to find an ignition switched +12V signal somewhere in the car to trigger the relay.

Ok, there is lots of electrical noise in this latest triggerscope, some of these spikes are above the arming threshold so will be seen by the ecu as extra teeth. Ideally you need to find the source of this noise (bad wiring?). But can you first try adjusting the arming threshold up to 1.5V, see if that improves the RPM reading.

Unfortunately the triggerscope is cut short and doesnt show a full 720 degrees. Can you attach your .pclr file also. Comparing your earlier triggerscope to our expected pattern there is some mismatch but I think it should be close enough to work and give correct RPM.

Our digital inputs can already accept a VR sensor input directly, there should be no need to a VR conditioner unless it has a very low voltage or something?

The AIM can use serial instead of CAN so you wouldnt need the hardware mod, but you would still need the G4 firmware update. The only display I know of that is directly compatible with the G3 was our old DisplayLink which is no longer available.

As I mentioned above the map you are using already has all 20 table allocations used up. This is because it is from an engine with 6cy individual knock control, 2 VVT cams etc, multiple boost tables etc. In the attached map I have turned off some of that stuff so you will now be able to enable a 4D table G4+ Storm Black.pclr

Yes, thats how you do it - a old plug lead poked into the coil and connected to the spark plug. It doesnot need to be a great connection or anything as the spark will jump a decent gap, just poke one end up the coil and rest the other end on the plug. I think the help file is wrong in this case, CDMR2 above said his is set to falling and falling works the best when I tested here on my simulator. Your trigger offset is currently set at 0deg. Try 45 and 145, those would be the other most likely values. You dont need to verify the crank sensor wires as we can use the triggerscope to confirm the polarity is correct on those.

When you crank it is there a realistic and stable RPM (say ~150-250RPM) displayed when cranking?

Also try temporarily disabling your antivirus, some of those will stop unknown exe's from running.

Thats what the injector dead time table is for? You shouldnt need any other table to compensate. Unless your fuel pump is not keeping up or something - which would not be a good idea to try to compensate for.

Possibly just looking in the wrong place? Pic below to make it clearer. The other possibility is our Storm example base map is actually quite busy, with a lot of "junk" enabled (I think this map was from our XR6 test car which normally uses a Thunder). The Storm has 20 "table slots". Most of the basic fundamental control stuff such as fuel/ign tables etc have their own dedicated tables but many of the less commonly used functions will use one of these general purpose table allocations. So if all of those tables are allocated it wont allow you to enable more. You can check whats assigned down the bottom of the ECU settings tree in the table allocations menu. From memory the Storm base map has about 17 of the 20 already used up. It is very unlikely to need all 20 with a typical 4cyl set up.

I was hoping Simon would have given some more ideas today since I dont have a lot of personal experience with the G4. Unfortunately he is away for a couple of days now. I dont ever remember much drama with the few I have used although I probably wasnt using activation conditions either. Does it work reliably if you set it to "always on". Have you tried using a virtual aux with the same condition rather than a real aux?

Will PM you some info.

You should wire in a new second OBD2 socket just for the Engine ECU, you dont want to go messing with all the other devices that are connected to the factory diagnostics port. You can connect the CAN Lambda and the new OBD socket to the same CAN bus. The only trick is most OBD2 devices can only work at 250 or 500kbits/s and all devices connected to the same bus must communicate at the same speed, the CAN Lambdas default is 1Mbit but you can re-program it to work at 500 or 250K.

Ok, can you do another triggerscope but this time please "save as log" and attach the file here so I can take a closer look.

There is a problem with highside drive of the starter solenoid in the 5.6.5 firmware, it doesnt work properly when set to highside drive. I believe it is fixed in the next version. I will send you a version of 5.6.6 you can try. BTW, fuel pump switching on when the starter button is pressed is normal behaviour (just the starter should switch on at the same time)...

There should already be instructions installed on your PC with the AEM dash software. Go to the folder: My Documents\AEM\DashDesign\CAN, look for the file "Link_G4+.pdf"

If you open up the case there is an LED on the top board that will be lit up when the ECU is powered up but I dont know how practical that is with the TT ecu. The tacho sweep is probably a reasonable indicator as you have already mentioned. I think you really need to back probe the wires somehow to test voltage with the ecu still attached rather than testing with the ecu unpluged. Sometimes if there is a bad connection there is still enough current able to make it through to give you a decent reading on a volt meter but as soon as there is any load connected to the circuit (ecu plugged in) the voltage drops to nothing. I dont know what the TT connectors look like but you can probably pull the covers off the back and poke a paperclip or pin down into the relevant terminal. Yes, that could potentially drop voltage enough to prevent power up. This is is why we need to test voltage with ECU plugged in. It can come direct to us, there is information about how to return here: https://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/ Typical turnaround is about a week provided we can reproduce the fault in testing easily.

Yes, any of the G4+ ECUs have the 5D tables for fuel and ignition, also up three separate boost tables to switch between or you can interpolate between two boost tables.

There is a little bit of noise near the zero-crossing on your triggerscope that could potentially cause a "phantom tooth" to be seen by the ecu. Can you try changing the trigger 1 arming threshold table to match my example below. Also I suggest trying this: First save a copy of your current tune file (.pclr). Go to >ECU controls>restore to factory settings. Perform the restore. After the restore is complete, load your tune file back in. Test cranking again, to see if triggering looks ok now. From your triggerscope above it looks like it should work ok. K6A is normally a hall sensor but the ECU doesnt care - as long as the teeth are in the same location it should work. K6A expected pattern below.

So is this for a G3 Linkplus (4plugs, 76pins) or a std "LEM G3" (single plug, 26pins)?

Our ECU only needs 12V on pin 3 and one of those grounds to power up. If you are positive that power and ground are present on those pins at the times when it doesnt power up then my only conclusion could be there is a hardware fault with the ECU and it will have to come back to us for inspection.

Leave SPWA at zero, since you have such small injectors you will never operate with a short pulse width.

E-throttle is generally too slow to be the primary torque reduction to control slip. I believe there are some ECU's that use DBW as part of the TC strategy but it gets far more complicated - basically they will still use a traditional fuel/ignition cut as the primary torque reduction to get the slip under control quickly, then only reduce throttle if the cut has to be applied for a sustained period of time. I have played with it a little before (you can put slip on one axis of your E-throttle target table if you want to experiment) but found it to be pretty useless. To reduce torque by say 20% with an ignition cut you only need to cut 2 out of every 10 sparks. To reduce torque by 20% using throttle only on a typical turbo car you need to close the throttle by something more like 50%. What's worse is if you suddenly regain traction you then have to move that throttle all the way open again and wait for the turbo to come back to speed before you have full torque recovery.