Adamw

Where are you getting this info from? If I look search google images for 3SGE vvti pulley, there is no way that twisted spline thing can rotate it 45deg. Looks more like about half that in the pictures I see.

Use the latest G4+ PC Link, it is at the top of our downloads page and is presently V5.6.5. Any mini USB cable should work. Have you got the ECU powered up?

You have done it right at the ECU end. I will set up the dash end to match when I get more spare time later today.

You will need the external module with that ECU. For E-throttle you need two spare analog inputs for the pedal sensors and two analog inputs for the TP sensors (already one existing TP sensor input on the Z32 ecu). There are 4 spare analog inputs on the expansion connectors as well as a few on the main header that are probably spare such as air flow meter and narrowband oxy pins so you have plenty to do E-throttle and a few other bits and pieces.

Your pinout is wrong. Have a look at the last page of this doc: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/assets/files/Instruction_Manuals/200026-N14.pdf

Disconnect coils or turn ignition off (so it doesnt start) and do a triggerscope while cranking. It may be that something is wrong with the arming threshold or something similar causing it to be slow to sync. If you dont like the precrank prime to occur at key-on, you could wire a start signal to a DI, then you can set the pre-crank to occur only when start signal is seen. I've never seen a problem with the more common "key on" prime though. Even with multiple on/off cycles I dont remember causing flooding or fouling type symptoms.

Can all the users in this thread that have had experienced the logging problem please email me a copy of your tune file. I need as many clues as I can to pass on to engineering. If you can, in the email include a link to this thread so I know what its about.

In our E36 base map the pre-crank prime happens at key-on, before the engine starts cranking. This may not be captured in the logging as it potentially is all over before the logging is working. Cranking enrichment will initiate as soon as the trigger syncs, so worst case scenario is one full engine revolution. Can you attach a log and your map.

Yes you can connect another Lambda via CAN bus (highly recommended) or old school analog input. If you use CAN you can actually connect up to 8 CAN lambdas. Yes the Fury has dual bank closed loop lambda control. You would still have to turn on dual channel control and assign correct cylinders etc, but yes the Thunder can do it without any further external hardware needed. Yes, this works ok. You will also need at least one un-driven wheel speed.

You said at the beginning you already had an XS loom, that has two temp inputs available so you can connect your air temp to one of the temp wires and your oil temp to the other.

Why has the cam moved between your two trigger scopes? In the image above your cam rising edge is not is a good place, however in the attached triggerscope llg file the camshaft tooth is about 40 degs retarded (further to the right). Did you move this on purpose or is there something lose mechanically? My understanding is it wont affect your displayed/logged RPM parameter - but it will affect the accuracy of the ignition timing due to rounding error per tooth. Here is a quote from an older post on the same subject: The engine position calculation is performed by dividing 360 by the number of teeth. The result is truncated to a whole number. This means that the error increments as more teeth go by the sensor. When the gap in the teeth appears (or the trig 2 sync on a crank wheel with no gap) the error is reset to zero. So in your case 360/38 = 9.47deg. You are going to have 0.47deg timing error for every tooth. After 37 teeth that is about 17degrees error, so quite significant.

No, as I said above, there are various other limits at play. I know somewhere around 60 crank degrees should be possible assuming the mechanical bits are working correctly but no way are you ever going to get 94.

The correct procedure is in the help file, typically yes you would start in open loop, build a good base position table and settings for the other step tables then switch to closed loop, but we might be able to shortcut that a bit. In fact, looking at your map again it doesnt look like this has been tuned at all, it looks like it is virtually unchanged from our base map? You know fuel and ignition have to be pretty spot on before you mess with idle tuning right?

It is definitely crank degrees. My simulator only allows me to advance the cam up to 60deg and the ECU is still happy reading that for me, I believe the limit of our timing hardware is somewhere around 70deg. Below are 4 triggerscopes overlaid. Since this engine has a 36-2 crank, the spacing between the crank teeth is 10degs. The bright green cam trace is with cam at zero. The next one to the left (pink) is with my cam advanced 10deg - notice it has moved about 1 crank tooth (so 10deg crank). The yellow trace is 30deg advanced, again it appears to be exactly 3 crank teeth further left. Finally the pale blue trace is with the cam 60deg advanced, again it appears to line up about 6 crank teeth to the left compared to the zero position. I done this on a g4+ simple because it have a built-in scope but I done a similar test with a G4(V88). Have you done the cam angle test and set your offset up correctly?

I dont think the orientation is too critical. I think probably more what Simon was talking about when he said "harder to mount" is the threaded sensors just need a tapped hole. Whereas the plastic Bosch sensor needs a smooth reamed hole (for o-ring), as well as a flat machined mounting boss and a drilled/tapped hole. We do sell weld on bosses for mounting this sensor for those that dont have machining facilities: http://dealers.linkecu.com/IATBMA_2

It looks like mostly your base position table has not been tuned. Whenever you move the throttle, CL gets disabled and the idle motor will jump to whatever position is in your base table, in your case that position is too far closed so the RPM drops until CL kicks in and slowly winds the valve open again. If you do a PC log of a cold start and warm up to somewhere close to normal temp that will give us some numbers to improve the base position table. Once the base position table has been tuned properly then you can also add idle ignition control to help stabilise things as well.

Just in case you dont have a live G4+ yet, here is your converted map. Note you still need a good look over it, there are new tables etc in the G4+ that may not be populated using a G4 map. ep3.pclr

For the narrowband input I dont think there ever was a conversion to AFR or transfer function, as far as I remember it is just logged/displayed raw voltage. Curious why you dont have the WB input, was this an older G1 that was upgraded to V5?

Aside from all the new cool stuff you can have such as launch control etc, the biggest advantage is that you can actually adjust everything to give the engine what it wants and view/log everything realtime. As an example, say for instance your coolant temp sensor has a dodgy connection, it is pretty obvious when you can see coolant temp in a log or watch it on screen with an aftermarket ECU, but with the OEM ecu you are pretty much unaware of these things and you can chase your tail forever looking for why it runs funny sometimes... The knock sensor I cant say for sure how well the OEM one will work as I have never played with one, but I think I would allow for changing that to a bosch wideband one so there was no disappointment if the OEM one didnt give a usable signal. The intercooler pump is connected to an aux output (inj 5). It is not configured in our MR2 base map but you can set that up to control however you like. You might want to switch it on based on IAT, MAP, TP, timers or whatever you like. The bulit-in "IC spray" strategy which cycles the pump on and off at configurable duty cycles when certain conditions are met would probably work well for a WTA IC pump also.

The MAP sensor needs to read accurately for the fuel calculation to work properly so you shouldnt go "fudging it" to make it more sensitive. Does it read the same as the BAP sensor with engine off? If you have a weak map signal then you will probably be better to use TP as the load axis on your fuel table

Do the test below with a couple of jumper wires or something. Im pretty sure Toyota use a different convention from everyone else in that 12V on the +ve pin closes the throttle.

Hi Rob, Yes you are right, the centerline mode doesnot work correctly, it appears from the way the help file is written someone has got it wrong and assumed intake centreline is BTDC, not ATDC, so it is displayed wrong. I can confirm all numbers in the VVT tables are crankshaft degrees.

A similar question popped up on facebook "Guild of EFI Tuners" today. I will paste a copy below. We get regular good feedback about those. I dont think I would bother if it is a mechanically noisy engine with lots of piston slap or valve train noise but they seem to work well on most modified modern road car engines. The last comment is from an Emtron dealer...

In your map you have Lambda 1 assigned to AN Volt 6 which is on the expansion connector. If you have wired the wideband to the stock O2 sensor input then that would be on AN Volt 4.