Adamw

I talked to George yesterday and told him that his tests suggested the ECU was faulty and it needed to come back to us. Not sure why these questions are still being asked here.

Yes, of course you will need to turn it on (On - Knk Internal). You will also need to set a relevant frequency and gains etc.

I'll let @Simon ID the device but I will make a couple of comments about the tune side in the mean time. Ignition timing and air temps would typically have the biggest influence on an engines susceptibility to knock. So assuming your intercooler system is working correctly and air temps are under control then the most likely cause is ignition timing. It could be something as simple as the base timing isnt set correctly (so the whole operating range is over advanced) or it could be the ignition map is too aggressive just in specific zones. Note the "maximum advance" setting will have little effect as you would typically only hit maximum advance under high vacuum/overrun conditions. You will really need a standalone wideband sensor/display to confirm the fueling side is ok. You will not get any useful feedback from the hand controller as that ECU probably only has a narrowband sensor connected (if at all). The "INJ" display is injector duty cycle in %. If you are seeing numbers in the 90,s your injectors are too small. "OXY" shows the voltage from the oxy sensor (if connected).

3A would have been the ground the ECU connects to the injectors when the injector drives are "on". 3C would be the ground the ECU connects to aux outputs. Assuming both of these are decent sized wires I would use these two as the main "power grounds" Connect 3A to one of the i88 main grounds. Connect 3C to the other i88 main ground. Dont bother connecting 3B to anything.

It would be normal to have negative values for temperatures above whatever temperature was present when the ignition table was mapped.

Either is equally fine, use whatever is easiest. Was there not already factory knock sensor wiring?

The stock knock sensor is connected if you want to give it a try. I dont know the ST185 well but most of the Toyota's from that era used a single wire resonant frequency sensor that is not particularly useful on a modified engine.

The Aux9/10 error was caused from when you initially had the E-throttle in "on" mode. In this condition, if the ECU sees any throttle errors (such as TPS not calibrated) then it will activate all throttle safety strategies such as applying the limiter and shutting off power to the E-throttle relay. That will cause the Aux9/10 error and these errors can only be cleared by first clearing the fault codes, then power cycling the ECU. So you should leave it in setup mode while you are tinkering. Your TP calibration failure looks like you possibly have the motor connected backwards - have you tried swapping the aux9/10 pins?

Just FYI, the MAP limit has a control range just like all the other limits, if advanced mode is turned off the default control range is 10Kpa, so with 245Kpa in the limit table, the ECU would start applying a small amount of cut at 235Kpa. Our notes suggest the WRX1-6 MAP sensors are only rated to about 225KPa so this is running dangerously close to its upper limit. Personally I would be lowing the boost a little rather than adjusting the MAP limit, at least until the MAP sensor is replaced.

According to the AEM datasheet, the 3.5bar MAP sensor should output 0.5V at 0KPa (full vacuum). Your runtime shows only 0.45V, so either your wiring is wrong or your sensor is dead.

Im pretty sure that map was done by High Performance Academy, I assume since it is a NA car and wouldnt normally have running intake temps above about 30°C, the enrichment at high intake temps is done intentionally to compensate for hot start heat soak.

Yes, trig 1 signal and trig 2 signal should both normally say yes when it is all happy. To confirm it is a trigger problem check if realistic RPM is displayed while cranking (say 180-250RPM). If you have no RPM then you have a trigger problem so the next step would be to do a triggerscope capture while cranking. Video showing how to do that: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

You will need to wire the ECU as per the "ECU hold power" wiring diagram in the help file. The ECU can then be set to "stay alive" for a pre-set length of time. It will always stay alive for this pre-set time regardless of whether your EWP needs to run or not. The ECU uses very little current so shouldnt drain battery etc. The maximum keep alive time setting is 1310 seconds or about 20minutes.

Ok, with ignition on, engine off, open up the runtimes screen (F12) and note down the value of the 3 parameters highlighted below. Reply with those.

The Speed sensor signal can go to any DI. The switches also need to go to (any) DI's. For wiring the switches, one pin is wired to the DI, the other side can go to either ground or an ign switched +12V. Usually ground is the easiest.

There are no obvious clues in the log but can definitely see the engine is not happy. Its making no vacuum and it needs like 15-20% throttle to get it to 2000RPM. Have you done an injector and ignition test to confirm all ign/inj drives are wired to the correct cylinders? Its very rich in the log, did you try removing fuel so lambda is closer to something normal? Have you checked base timing? Is this engine a known runner or has it been apart recently?

What gauge do you have and what CAN port is it connected to? Attach your tune file and I will take a look at your settings

When you say "boost reference" I assume you mean the supply for the wastegate - not the MAP reference for the ECU? I dont do many turbo cars so dont have much experience but for the wastegate supply my logic says somewhere near the compressor is more relevant as it will not be influenced by throttle blade position.

Where are these colours you are quoting - are these XS wire colours, or colours on your sensor wires? You are right that you need a 5V supply, Sensor ground and an analog input. Unfortunately for the XS loom colours you will have to open the case up and look at the labels printed on the PCB or pin positions yourself. The wire colours used in the expansion loom have changed a couple of times over the years so we cant confidently relate colours to pin functions.

You can log actual PW but I dont see how you could interpret it into a 3D table since there are more than 2 "dimensions" that influence it. You could use a 3rd party tool such as MLV pro to filter out some of those variables to make it fill a 3D table but I still dont see it being particularly relevant. What are you wanting to do?

The charge temp table is used to calculate air mass for the fuel equation. You would usually still want/need the IAT ignition trim table active - at least in a knock limited turbo car.

Your cal 5 is not set up correctly, set up like below:

Yep, use cal 4,5 or 6 and that’s all you need.

I have also been discussing this with George via our tech support skype. The trigger capture looks good but it still it has massive trigger errors. I have given him a couple of ideas to try and he has another ecu to try also. I will update this once we work out what is going on.