Adamw

Heres a pic of the early WRX crank & cam wheels. Notice the crank goes 2 teeth, 1 tooth, 2 teeth, 1 tooth. The cam goes 1T, 2T ,1T ,3T The ECU triggers when a falling edge crosses over the zero volts line, I have marked on the pic below those trigger points with pink dots. If you count them you will notice the 2,1,2,1 crank pattern is on the bottom.

Yes, it locks to whatever figure you have in the "lock timing to" box as soon as you open the set base timing screen.

Thats odd, you have the cam pattern coming through on trig 1 and the crank pattern coming through to trig 2, it should be the opposite. Either someone has mixed the plugs up on the engine (I dont know subarus well enough to know if this is even possible) or the wiring is a bit different in this car for some reason. If the wiring reaches either sensor and the plugs are the same then just swap the crank/cam wires. If not then you can swap the signal wires at the ECU end on pins 38 & 53.

I had this same query in tech support email so I will post my initial reply here so others know it has been answered. Gear detection needs a driven wheel speed - preferably a "VSS" type sensor in the gearbox if you have one so that the differential effect doesnt effect gear detection.Latched launch doesnt need a wheel speed at all, this works off RPM.Speed limiter can use either driven or non-driven so my suggestion would be to use the same VSS sensor as used for the gear detection.There are instructions or at least a basic explanation for all of these functions in the help file. I will paste copies below.I suggest setting up the basics first yourself, make sure all the DI's and speed sensor is working and calibrated correctly, then have a play around (just jack the wheels up off the ground and test on jack stands). Then if there are problems or something is not clear you can send us logs to get help.

I would also suggest changing to a common Bosch sensor. There are quite a few different part numbers but the common one is 0 261 231 006. Also a note about the gain. On the main knock setup page the "channel gain" setting can only be adjusted in "whole number" increments of 1. So 1 is the minimum setting that will work here. However, if you go to the cyl setup page the individual cylinder gains have a resolution of 0.01 so you can use these to adjust the "volume" much more finely.

Neither of your logs look too bad to me but there is only one very short blip of decent load and RPM so its hard to tell without more data. The big spike when you lift off is pretty common and is usually driveline bashlash that causes that. You can get the ecu to ignore that via the TP delta and TP lockout. I would normally set the knock thresehold somewhere around where I have drawn the pink line below.

Ok, triggerscope looks good. There is no obvious reason this shouldnt work for you. Are you sure that offset number turned blue when you adjusted it?

Sorry, I think it is just Brads wording that is confusing you. It sounds like you are already doing it correct. Can you do us a quick triggerscope so we can see if there is another reason that the offset is not working correctly. Heres a quick video showing how to do it: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

We could send the parameter "logging status" to the dash, but back on the last page @JayGow mentioned his logging status showed it was logging but when he went to download there was 0.00 so Im not sure if this is going to be a good indicator. The ECU obviously thinks it is logging.

Yep, stepper motor control being one of them.

Here is how you would do a custom linear calibration using Cal table 1. Since it is linear we only need to use the first two cells. The numbers I have in the example below would match the normal Innovate calibration. You may have to adjust these if you have found the default innovate calibration is not working for you then it suggests you have a ground offset somewhere.

No not really. GPS needs 32bit numbers, our CAN setup only allows 16Bit max. Also we dont have available CAN input parameters for accel or gyro. You could get some data using the generic CAN AN Volt channels, but you cant give these parameters meaningful names or units so they are particularly user-friendly.

No I think you are wrong, these should be the opposite, like I mentioned originally. I can see in your tune file that MAP was reading 7Kpa, it should be reading about 100KPa when the engine is not running. In every F-Con pinout I have (several) pin 14 (AN Volt 6) is MAP. You should easily be able to confirm by moving the throttle pedal and seeing which AN volt changes. Also, the HKS harness has the coils/injectors wired in firing order rather than cylinder order so you have to enter the firing order in PC Link as 123456.

Make sure you are hitting the enter key after adjusting the trigger offset, the number should turn blue to indicate it has been adjusted. The max advance warning is set using the max advance setting in the ignition main setup

Note all this is explained in the help file. If you have the help browser open and click on any ecu setting, the help browser will give you an explanation or further information about that setting. Below is what you get if you click on master fuel: Also, the fuel table can take numbers up to 150.0% and it is not VE, it is just "percent of master". It will not make your table smoother, but if you have very small numbers in your fuel table then you will lose resolution since the smallest adjustment increment is 0.1%.

No, the fuel master is just an overall multipler, you just use this to initially scale the fuel volume to suit the injector size etc. You only need to change it if your fuel table numbers are too big or too small, yours are a little small but not enough to be a problem I think. If you halved your master fuel then you would need to double the numbers in your fuel table to get the same fuel volume injected.

Thats a map, can we have a PC Log too please? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

We dont offer any wireless interfaces at this time. It's possible one of the common rs232 bluetooth devices will work if you have one of our ECU's with a serial port (not just USB), but you will need a pretty good understanding to get them configured.

attach map and log will be better. Share it via google drive, onedrive, etc if too big.

That map is really only useful for the CAN setup, I think it was just one of our FD base maps.

Provided the timing marks line up then you have done it correct. If you are still using a distributor then you should check rotor phasing is still ok also.

Hi Alex, We dont have any built in alternator control strategies. Some you can control with a PWM table but you need to know what sort of signal the Alternator is expecting. Also some "ecu controlled" alternators still work fine without any control signal - they just output max voltage full time.

I only had a quick look. A couple of things that look odd to me: Lambda is topped out at 0.65 @ 6500RPM, that is very rich and will take some serious ignition to ignite. Have you tried running leaner? Exhaust cam is 35deg retarded @ 6500RPM, I dont know if this is normal, have you tried ex cam @ 0deg?

Please attach your tune file.

Check voltage on pin 45 (signal from ign switch) and pin 49 or 59 (main supply from ECCS relay) during cranking. It is common to find one of these is well below batt voltage so the ECU drops out during cranking. The ignition switch circuit is stupid in these cars as the fuel pump relay and a few other high current devices all connect directly to it so it only needs a slightly dirty contact somewhere and you will get a large volt drop in that circuit.