Adamw

I think you will struggle to interface directly, in our software you are limited to 6 CAN ID's and most OEM systems will sprinkle little bits of data out over a much larger range of ID's. Most likely it will need some sort of CAN gateway/bridge in-between.

As in if you were going to fit a different engine?

They use the standard Bosch NTC calibration. If its not reading correct when set to Std Bosch NTC then I would remove it and measure its resistance. It should be about 2.5Kohms at normal room temp (20deg C). Im pretty sure the thread will be M12 x 1.5 which is pretty common ECT sensor format.

What ecu are we talking? Is RPM displayed in software reasonably stable when cranking? Is it leading direct or leading wasted? Can you attach your tune file.

The best place to find how parameters are stored and used in the ECU is in the CAN setup screen, test calculator. Example for gear shift status definitions below. The virtual aux example below I think would cover the complete upshift sequence (start shift to end shift), I dont think you could capture both upshift and downshift using the same VA, but you could with a couple of VA's if needed.

No I think you would struggle to do this, it gets pretty complicated with torque reduction, rev matching, clutch and shift sequencing etc.

Man that sounds a bit odd, the MR2 power steer units have their own controller built in dont they? As far as I have seen they only have a VSS input to adjust the amount of assist relative to speed. With no VSS input I think they just do max assist at all times. What does the certifier want - variable assist based on speed, or does he want the pump to actually turn off under some conditions?

Yes, the RPM range you have set is pretty normal for an RB25. To prevent it switching on/off at cruise just change that TP condition to something that is not in your normal cruise range. I would go to like TP >1% or similar.

I have made some changes. I highlighted all my changes in red. Note only aux 1 & aux 2 are capable of driving a 3 wire idle valve but with this engine aux 1 & 2 are needed for the vanos. The workaround for this is an external circuit to make the idle valve work more like a two wire version which can then be connected to any of the spare auxes. I will attach a diagram for that below. Note the G4 doesnt work with CAN bus lambda controllers, only analog. Adams notes.xlsx 3 Wire ISC with 1 Aux.pdf

I agree, PW doesnt change so it is unlikely ecu related. Could be fuel pressure or the lambda measurement. I see your lambda device is an innovate, is it one with a gauge/display or is it a LC1/2 with no display? My suspicion is due to innovate not having an analog ground it is quite possibly something else in the car turning on/off that varies the ground offset hence measured lambda. If it has a gauge and the gauge shows the same swing then you could rule that out.

Assuming you have already tried rising and falling edge on the DI with no improvement then it can only be a problem with the signal from the speedo. Below are my thoughts of what would be two most likely causes, unfortunately you really need an oscilloscope to work out what the problem is. In the Nissans with cable driven speedo, the ECU speed signal comes from a simple magnetic reed switch in the back of the speedo, it just has 2 or 4 magnets that wave past the reed switch every cable revolution. The reeds switches are pretty prone to dying of old age. They can sometimes get sticky or the contacts get burnt. Any signal going into a digital input needs to rise above about 1.5V and fall below about 1.2V for it to be detected. Your signal most likely is 0-5 or 0-12V, but I have seen cases where there was a bad ground somewhere so the signal sometimes didnt drop below 1.2V, causing the odd drop out or spikes.

Its still not clear what you are doing. Here's how I would do it: On the laptop with the layout you want to use loaded, go to >layout>save layout as, give it a unique name and save it to your USB stick. Insert the USB stick into the tablet, copy the new layout file to the link Layout folder, C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+\Layouts. Open PC Link on the tablet, open a map, then go to >layout>Load layout, and choose the new layout you just copied.

I just knocked this up. if you print on A3 it should be 1:1. If you need me to add any dimensions let me know. Thunder.pdf

Every car will be different depending on what you want to achieve and how all the other factors are set up. I would start from a conservative point and increase from there. start at around +10 abs.

The TP main and TP sub sensors must have some sort of linear relationship. It is not going to work if the ratio varies between them due to non-linear linkages or backlash etc. I think your only option will be to use just one TP sensor and wire in to both TP analog inputs (suggest the one that is actually on the throttle bodies).

Coils running low on energy is just going to cause a misfire, it is not going to harm the engine.

I can confirm falling is the correct setting. The engine will actually run with either rising or falling, but the VVT control was not happy when set to rising.

Ok, yeah, that specs tab is well due for an update, sorry about that. I believe it is on our todo list.

The calculation is based on a 16bit value. The largest 16bit number is 65535, the ratio parameter has a resolution of 0.01 so a gear ratio of 655.35 is the biggest number the ecu can compute. Really since you are trying to divide speed by zero (RPM), the correct ratio should be "infinity" but obviously electronics have trouble counting to infinity...

If you have a G4+ plug-in ECU then you do not need any external controller, it is all built in. Only the older G4 plug-in ECU's needed the Knockblock connected to allow knock control. Where did you see this mentioned? I might have to update the documentation.

You should calibrate the DI so the speed reads reasonably accurate first. Otherwise if you fix it later it will upset your gear calc. As for doing the gear calibration it sounds like you are setting it to calibrate before the wheels are at speed. You need to have the wheels moving before you set it to calibrate like the instructions above say. Its usually easiest to do this in a stationary car with the wheels just jacked up off the ground

The last page of the doc I linked to shows the connection, some need a pullup, some need a pull-down. If you wanted to try connecting up the ABS unit, Im pretty sure most of the preconfigured 350Z CAN stream works in the 370. You could try a temporary hook up to just one wheel if you want to test it.

Ok, I dont think there is any problem. possibly the fuel pressure was not keeping up with the previous setup.

A common one is part number 0 261 231 006