Adamw

I would go with that circuit you have above since it sounds like it is working for someone else. Im not authorised to give out our internal schematics and I dont have enough experience of what voltages and other scenarios we need to account for to make a better suggestion myself (apart from my original relay suggestion above). Remember to allow for situations such as someone connecting the battery reverse polarity etc.

Ok, give it a shot and report back here if you cant get it to run, it will only be a matter of a setting out somewhere.

Hi Jake, Yes, I can confirm this is not working correctly, I just tested this myself. How come you are not using modelled-multifuel fuel equation? It works correctly if you use modelled multifuel mode. I will add this one to the list of things to fix.

No sorry, there is nothing we can do. The only way around it is to load in a new non-password protected map and start tuning from scratch.

In theory it would work, but I'm not sure that would be happy with the kickback from the main relay and various other transient surges that are common in the automotive environment. In our E36 plugin ECU for instance the Mosfet that we use for switching this main relay is rated at 60A, 55V.

The Evo 8 didnt have a CAN bus from the factory, Im pretty sure it uses a single wire K-line type protocol, so it will not have suitable wires already in the harness. Since CAN needs to be twisted pair wires you will be best to run two new wires from the ECU to the OBD2 socket.

I dont personally have a bracket handy. I will see if I can get some measurements from someone at head office tomorrow.

Hmm, that sounds like a potential problem. The high tension voltage will have to travel all the way through the chassis to find its way back to the battery. To minimise interferance the general idea with grounding is to make the magnetic loop area as small as possible, in this case you have basically turned the whole chassis into a big magnetic loop. Can you try a proper ground cable from the battery -ve post direct to the engine block or gearbox case, or even try a heavy jumper lead as a temporary test.

I just noticed there is a mistake in the pin functions list above. Fixed version below. So DI2, 5 or 6 will probably be the easiest options.

You can use either. Gnd out & Shield/gnd are effectively the same thing - they are both connected to sensor ground inside the ecu.

Of course it works, I see it set up and working in nearly every log I look at. If you didnt look at the runtimes screen then you obviously didnt follow the instructions. You dont need an F12 key to access the runtimes, thats just a keyboard shortcut, you can click on the menubar>tuning>runtime values. The runtimes is a key part of the set up as it will tell you if it is happy or not, when its finished and when you can move on to the next gear.

Closed loop lambda is bouncing around at idle, I would adjust the lockouts so its not working at idle. It looks like you have quite large injectors so it may not be happy idling at stoich, just give it what it wants. Your alternator is not working either which may influence the tune if deadtimes arent accurate. IAT isnt working.

If it is less than a couple of years old it should be. To confirm you will have to pull the lid off the ECU case and have a look at the PCB revision number on the bottom board (location below). If its V1.7 or later it is capable of E-throttle.

Can you do a trigger scope and attach that and a copy of your tune file here. Trigger scope can be at idle or just cranking. Here's a video showing how to do it: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

You can use any MAP sensor you like. There is a ST185 and a ST205 base map in the PCLink base maps folder, either of those will be in the ballpark.

If the engine can rev that high then there must be air getting past the throttle. Either the throttle blade is stuck partially open or you have a large air leak somewhere in the manifold. Since the tps is showing an odd number I would be most suspicious that the throttle is open. Pull the intake pipe off and have a look what is going on.

If your bottomboard is V1.7 or later it will not have aux 4, the tacho pin will be controlled by ign 5. Set aux 4 to off and set ign 5 to tacho.

Im not sure you have that right. The ignitor has 3 wires. 1 is a gnd. 1 is the signal from the ecu (should be connected to ecu pin "ign 1". it will be gnd with engine stopped, will pulse to ~6V when ecu is commanding a spark), the third is the signal to the coil -ve. You can check the ignition system by using the ignition test function in the ecu, set ignition 1 test to "on" and you should see a spark on coming out of the coil lead (fit a sparkplug to it or create a small gap to jump to engine block or similar).

Set fuel mode to modeled rather than modeled-multifuel for initial start up. Maybe also revisit the staging table - it looks like they would start to come in at about idle vacuum in that map. Fuel table numbers will need changing to something from a modeled map. I suggest open up the Monsoon base map, go to its fuel table, right mouse click and go import/export>export to clipboard. Then open your map, go to fuel table, right click, >import from clipboard, you will then have a roughly close fuel table. Turn off the rotary oil pump aux outputs if you dont have one, the ecu will apply a limiter if it doesnt see feedback from that.

Water temp was showing 96degC in your map - that is near boiling. It maybe hot there but nah, not that hot.

You can connect the fuel level sensor direct to the dash, the only extra thing you will need is a pull up resistor and something to connect the wires. This document will help you: http://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/FAQ_Sensors_Fuel_level_100_eng.pdf The only thing that doesnt apply in that document is you no longer need the binder connectors as its all done via the main 23pin plug now.

This is not our RX7 base map? It looks like maybe the fury XR6 base map? If this is an FD with the crank mounted trigger then the timing would be close you have an offset set to 1deg, our S6 basemap has -7 so that means you might be a little more advanced compared to standard but still its not going to hurt anything. How are you checking compression - with a proper rotary tool that records all three chambers? Looking at your map I have a few suggestions: Turn off launch control. Turn off traction control. Turn off gear shift control. Turn off knock control. Turn off dual fuel tables and dual ignition tables for now. Turn off VVT. Turn fuel off. Check base timing (or set it to -7 like our S6 base map). Coolant temp is reading 96deg, that means you will be getting no warm up enrichment. Fix the sensor if it is reading incorrectly. Clean spark plugs. Turn fuel back on. Have another go at starting. This time start the logger before cranking. If it doesnt fire try adjusting the engine capacity up or down - this is a quick way to fudge in more or less fuel to see if either helps.

You are meant to check it with a timing light, but no I highly doubt you could ever damage one at idle with near closed throttle. Turn fuel off, check base timing. Attach your map so we can take a look. What size injectors etc?

You have pin 54 correct in the xlsx I attached, this is the main power supply to the ECU from the main relay. You need to ground Pin 27 to make the main relay energise it. On our plug-in ECU we have an extra circuit (mosfet) to do this, you can use a relay controlled by pin 56 like below to ground pin 27 when ignition switch is turned on.

Yes, you have definite signs of trigger error. Try dropping your trigger 2 lockout to about 4000 to see if that helps. Also, both your trig 1 and 2 arming thresholds are quite high. try dropping them down to the values in my example below.