Adamw

Yes, it means not connected. You will not be able to use any NC input or output.

Ok, attached is the best I can do. Im pretty sure the ones I have placed a question mark next to arent actually connected on the evo 1-3 ecu, it seems some of the Evo4-8 pin functions may have been listed in this table by mistake. For instance the Evo1-3 didnt have a heated oxygen sensor, baro sensor or IC spray lamp but they are still listed. G3 Evo1-3 pinout.pdf

Most of your settings look like a reasonable starting point. A couple of questions: Do you get realistic RPM displayed in the software when cranking? Have you checked base timing with a timing light? Have you done the injector test function to make sure all injectors are clicking and the ignition test to confirm the coils are sparking in the correct pairs?

Yes, you can basically send any parameter/sensor that the ECU has connected, there are limitations on how many channels you can send but I would expect you will be able to cover all the stuff you want. It will just be a matter of setting up the CAN, I can give you a hand with that, once you are wired please attach a copy of your tune file and a note about what you want to send.

Please do us a log and attach a copy of your turn file and we will take a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

You log shows it has massive trigger errors once it gets warm. I suspect this probably means the cam timing is out but it maybe something wiring related. Can you warm the engine up until it starts surging then do a trigger scope (while still idling). Here is a quick vid showing how to do the triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

I checked in with the servicing department this morning, they are now pretty up to date. They say if you let us know it is urgent when it is on its way, in most cases they should be able to turn it around same day or next day. We ship using DHL express so the return trip should be only a few days. I suggest you chose a reliable courier with tracking when you send it to us.

I will PM you some instructions. As far as I know that should be all it needs.

Does page 25/26 of the manual not give you the info you need?

This is the common one for older gauges, try this first: Edit; updated, posted wrong pic originally.

Unfortunately I cant see a way to do what you want if you are already using all 8 injector drives. We have the "Auxilary injection" function designed for this (can be set up to be based on mS or duty cycle) but that needs a spare injector drive and a separate injector to work. A GP PWM aux output can also be used to drive an independant injector but if you want to use the normal port injectors then it can only be a percentage sorry.

You can try that. To give you an example calibration I need the model number of your AEM gauge as there are at least 3 different AEM wideband gauge calibrations in use.

The E36 chassis does not have any factory CAN bus comms (at least from the engine ECU). So that means you can use either of the two onboard CAN ports for aftermarket devices. CAN is bi-directional so the same bus/port is used for both input and output. I dont see the point of connecting the boost gauge as that has its own sensor and the ECU already has a MAP sensor. The wideband and AEMNet gauge can both be connected together to the same CAN port. You will need a CANPCB cable and a CANF plug to connect your devices to the ECU.

No, as I already said the factory sensor cant be used for lambda 1. You have Lambda 1 assigned to AN Volt 4, this is normally the tumble valve position on a V10 subaru so somebody must have wired something to the ECU. You have a very weird calibration on AN Volt 4 that matches no wideband controller that I know of so thats most likely why it doesnt read right. If the AEM is the only wideband you have fitted to the car then Im pretty sure the AEM must be wired to the ECU, to test if it is, with PC Link connected to the ECU so you can see Lambda 1 in the software, with engine not running, can you unplug the wires out of the back of the AEM gauge and see if lambda 1 reading in the software changes.

Note there is no "lambda 1" set up by default, it will not be coming from a factory narrowband or wideband sensor, if you have a working Lambda 1 displayed in PC Link then it probably means your AEM device is connected to the ECU. Can you attach your tune file (.pclr) and also tell us what model your AEM device is so we can check your settings.

I think its time to get your ecu on the way back to us to inspect in this case. It will typically take about a week if it needs repairing but I suspect there might be a bit of a backlog as many of us are just returning from christmas holidays. Instructions for returning the ecu are here: https://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/

I just found a couple of pictures of a 3sgte distributor online and it looks like the sensors inside the distributor are all one piece so cant be moved in relation to each other. I cant find any good close pictures of the two trigger wheels inside, can you confirm if the top (24teeth) and bottom wheel (1 tooth) can be moved relative to each other? Is trig 2 connected to the G1 or G2 sensor? It might be a good idea to swap to the alternative one and then try a trigger scope to see if it is any better aligned.

@alexjohn Can you please attach a copy of your current map (.pclr). I suspect there is nothing wrong with the signal now, to me it looks like he either still has the offset set wrong or some of the other VVT settings wrong such as solenoid frequency, thats why Im asking for the map. There are a few reasons that could cause the inlet LH error counter - for instance, if the cam moves more than a few degrees below what it thinks is zero it will error. This is mostly only a problem with the generic trigger modes such as multitooth/missing, with the OEM and VVT modes there is a large tolerance of where the cam tooth/teeth can occur without upsetting the sync. With the 1JZ vvt trigger mode the tooth that is close to the gap can drift across the gap without drama. A little off topic, but just for your info since you seem interested, with the generic multitooth missing mode what we call the index tooth (where the trigger offset is measured from) is the 1st edge after the gap. So this is normally the important area where you dont want the cam edge to drift across (again this is only relevant to the generic mode, not the 1Jz mode). The trigger offset is the angular distance from the index tooth to TDC#1 compression.

Photo is too blurry to see the cam signal well, you would be better to use the save as log feature. One thing I can see though is your crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity.

I don't know this engine well, but isn't this what he has set up on Aux2 - just labelled wrong. That sounds fine to me. Don't know what this would achieve, it should work fine as it is.

I can't be sure this is your problem but my feeling is your trigger 1 & 2 edges are a little too close for comfort, it could potentially result in clashing edges which will shift the timing by one tooth. It appears closer at cranking speed than idle too. Normally the Toyota trig 2 is nicely centered between the trig 1 tooth but yours is not for some reason. I don't know what the distributor looks like inside but is there a way to move the sensors relative to each other?

Sorry, I don't have a full explanation for you as I'm on holiday but I can possibly help with some of it. I know the term "rate" can sometimes be used in place of differential but that is not what we are referring to in the CLL settings. In this case rate is just how often the lambda error is assessed and corrected. 5Hz means it is assessed 5 times per second. I'm not 100% sure of the control strategy that is used in the background but I assume since we only have a gain setting that the control is proportional only.

In both you logs your have the cam angle test turned on so vvt is disabled. The cam in sitting in its home position.

It is not clear what you are asking. Can you explain what problem you have?

Read the cam angle test procedure in the help file, picture below shows where to find it. perform the cam angle test using a test pulse count of 3 (the cam has 3 teeth). this test will give you the offset to use for the trig 2 vvt offset setting.