Adamw

Something like this will do it. Note "0%" in the boost table ratio table means you are using boost table 1, "100%" means you are using all of table 2, 50% would be a blend halfway between table 1 & 2.

Sensor ground would be preferable. Yes, unregulated battery voltage (14v) is normally used for powering those sensors.

So it seems you need to fix your wiring. The sensors will not work until they have a ground

Pin 46 should definitely be acceptable as a sensor ground. It is more common to power those sensors from 12V as 5V could be a bit marginal but lets check a few other things first... Have you checked there is continuity from pin 46 at the ecu to the blue wire at the hall sensor? Can you post up your map so we can check settings.

Ok, the setup like the "option 1" you originally asked for (with just timer and clutch switch) didnt work out too well as when testing the "arming time" and the timer kind of contradicted each other and you could potentially get a situation where the launch would re activate something like 1 second after each gear change etc. I could make it work but its going to need 3 virtual auxes and two timers so its going to be pretty hard for anyone to understand or adjust. If you are happy to fit the non-driven wheel speed then you will have a much better strategy and it will be easier to understand what to adjust. I would not connect your clutch switch as we dont want it to disable when you let the clutch go, perhaps just connect the dash switch so you can disarm it if it is ever too intrusive, otherwise just leave it active all the time. Here is an example setup.

With quick tune the amount of time in each cell and the center tolerance is configurable, so you could effectively make it instant to do what you are asking for. However, I dont think this is a good idea and will just quickly make a mess of your map. The idea of the mixture map feature is you post process the log file using filters to remove transients, gear changes and most other conditions where Lambda measurement is not accurate or representative - so you are only adjusting your fuel table using "good" data. You cant really do that "live" as you dont know what data to filter/ignore until after the event has happened.

Just looking at this now. Do you have any speed sensor at all connected (even driven wheel/gearbox speed)? I could do something a bit more effective if you do.

exactly.

Does it even matter what it is for? If you are removing the ecu just chop the wire and leave it there.

Yes. The alignment or phasing of the cam edges in relation to crank does not need to be exact but you do want it to be in a similar position to the picture above. We have quite a big tolerance which you zero out with the "offset" number. I would aim to have the cam edges occur roughly about 10-14 teeth after the big gaps on the crank.

Yes, Evo 10 has Mivec on both cams. This is the pattern you want to duplicate: And then settings would be something like this:

That would be the same as driving with the quicktune function enabled all the time wouldnt it?

The timer setup will likely work better than your present setup without any extra hardware needed. So if you want to give that a go I can help you set up the timer if you cant work it out yourself. For tarmac standing starts, option 2 is by far the best and is what most professional circuit cars would use as a start line strategy. Usually you set it up to initially spin enough to prevent it bogging then quickly pull RPM down to allow the tyres to "catch up" before slowly ramping it back in. Usually you dont even need an enable switch - it will just be active anytime speed drops below say 50km/h. Wheel Slip based control strategies typically arent good options for standing starts. You actually need more slip than you would imagine for a good launch. For a wheel speed sensor I would suggest 4-12teeth and use a hall effect sensor (so it works down to near 0KM/h). Almost any will work. The GS1005, GS1007 or GS1012 from ZF would be my suggestions.

The multiplier can be anything from 0.01 to 10.00 in 0.01 increments. If your tacho is overshooting, then try something a little less than 1, say 0.95

If your blitz meter reads correct then surely that confirms the ECU is outputting a correct frequency? Are you sure the settings make no difference? If you use a smaller multiplier the needle should sweep to a smaller number?

No. Provided the tacho multiplier and duty cycle settings are set the same in both the V88 and G4+ then they will output identical tacho signals.

All will have a BIOS or the modern equivalent UEFI, the problem is you wont know if that BIOS has the needed "power failure" option in it until you actually had a tablet you can boot up and play with. There are special adapters for some name brand tablets that allow charge/data at the same time, but just any old "USB hub" wont work. One example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-new-Tablet-pc-usb-otg-charge-hub-for-thinkpad-8-X98-VivoTab-note8-M80ta-WT/2040501550.html The problem is that USB was originally only designed to provide 0.5A current, most modern tablets however need more than this. So they use one of the USB "fast charge" standards that provide say 1 or 2A. For these chargers to work though the tablet needs to send some sort of "handshake" to the charger to tell it that it is capable of taking 2A. So no USB data can be sent through the same port as the power is supplied because the datalines are needed for the "handshake" signal.

It would be possible but the only real option for the shift initiation signal on that car would be the clutch switch. I would say that is unlikely to work well on a road driven H pattern synchromesh gearbox.

Good news. As for your fuel table numbers, your logic is correct in that the Fuel master and Fuel table numbers are directly related. If you increase fuel master by 50%, then you decrease the Fuel table numbers by 50% to end up the same. However if you are only peaking around 110% in your fuel table then I would just leave it alone, that is perfectly fine (or even preferable). The biggest number you can enter is 150% so our suggestion to aim for around 50% in the middle of the table is just to ensure users didnt run out of adjustment when they got to the high load areas. Usually it is only when fuel pump isnt keeping up or some other hardware problem that you would need that much range.

PCLink cant make the sensors go into a fault condition, this fault checking logic is in the ECU firmware. Maybe you have a intermittent connection somewhere?

If the blitz meter shows correct then it is likely just your oem tacho inaccurate, this is pretty normal. Most production car tachos will have significant error, usually more so at the high end of the scale.

Has the engine been tuned or is it just running on the base map? Please attach a log and your map so we can take a look.

Doc attached, but basically it looks like you have it correct - keep the yellow teeth, remove the green ones. Assuming the rotor is nicely centered under a post. When you refit the distributor, line the center of the tooth up slightly before the pickup - this will be your cranking advance. About where you have it in the above photo will be a decent starting point. To set base timing, disable fuel system. You then crank the engine with a timing light connected, move the CAS backwards or forwards so that the 10deg mark lines up. Lock it up. Then go into the software or hand controller and make sure the "base timing" number is set to 10deg also. Modification for 24 tooth trigger wheels.pdf

I dont think it is tune related, the commanded pulse width doesnt change where it starts to go lean, it only drops a little after it goes lean due to the MAP dropping away. There could be many causes - it could be some hardware issue such as a blockage or intermittent pump/regulator or it could be something like an electrical connection. I would start by trying to isolate some of those possibilities. Depending on what sort of tools or equipment you have available, a fuel pressure sensor or even a temporary cheap analog gauge hooked up would help point you in the right direction.

I just done some calcs on fuel flow and assuming your injectors really do still flow 30lb then they should be adequate for 220HP. So perhaps they arent fully opening/staying open due to current/driver? The ballast setup normally works ok so it would be unusual not to work correctly but I dont have any other explanation for your observations. If it were me and budget was a consideration I would go to u-pull-it or whatever you have locally and find a cheap high resistance injector out of a modern engine with similar horse power level.