Adamw

For outputs you can do generic on/off type stuff quite easy using virtual auxes to generate the function (say if you want to send out a fuel pump output but still have the proper prime settings etc) then send that virtual aux status out over CAN. PWM type aux output type functions are only possible for a few specific functions. Inputs that can be received over CAN are in the list below, you will notice there arent many options for analog inputs and critical stuff like TP is missing for a reason: Most aftermarket CAN devices nowadays have adjustable bit rate so this means you can have at least 6 devices connected to 1 CAN port alone, do you really think you are going to need more than that? But our ECU doesnt have a function to assign to that input so there is no point having it connected - unless you want to use it for a boost switch or something else? Our cruise control works like most modern cars, to increase speed you press (or hold down, cant remember) the set button, to decrease speed you hold down the resume button. Brake switch is compulsory but clutch switch isnt, you can possibly do without that. Yes it is possible and it is commonly done in modern cars. You would need to build some sort of basic resistor network to get the momentary switches to output the differing voltages. There are only 4 inputs assignable to this type on analog input, listed below: Most of it would work within the limits of the CAN inputs we can assign that is shown in the long list above. It looks to me like you already have enough inputs to do all you want without any expansion. My advice is dont add complication until it is needed.

Our ECU's can work with most CAN input or output modules, provided the message data is available. There are some restrictions with what you can do with those input ans outputs however. Looking at your I/O assignments, you could potentially use DI9 & 10 to get you enough for full cruise control functionality - provided dont need the 2nd CAN bus. Also you have DI8 labelled Cruise Accel - where did that come from, there is no such function is there? Something like this could be used to give you more DI's via CAN: https://ecumasterusa.com/shop/can-switch-board/

There is no user adjustable filtering for analog inuts. However temp sensors cant physically change very quickly, even the fastest response air temp sensors have a response time of like 3 seconds, so if your numbers are bouncing around that suggests there is possibly a wiring issue or noise on your ground etc.

Correct, it is an overall multiplier to the calculated effective pulse width. So 5% in the table would mean that cylinder receives 5% more fuel than the others. Have you checked injectors are wired correct so it is adjusting the correct cylinders?

Im assuming you are talking COP or CNP coils with built-in ignitors. If so you want to ground preferably direct to cylinder head or engine block to keep magnetic loop area smallest.

You will need it connected to a temp input with the internal pull-up resistor turned on (and set to 1Kohm), or if you have it connected to a AN Volt input then you will need to wire in an external pull-up. Also, there is a "bug" in the cal table setup when using a cal table for EGT's, you have to set up the temperatures to 1/10 of actual. I will post an example of how to set it up when I find one. Edit: Here's an example of how the cal table must be setup:

You will need all three wires connected. The signal goes to any spare AN Volt input. The 0V goes to the sensor ground/"gnd out" pin. This wire will already go to your temp sensors and MAP etc so you have to splice into that. The +5 will go to the same 5v wire that powers your MAP. You need to splice into this wire.

Huh? That is in the reply of mine that you quoted. To make it clearer, the built-in pull-up on the trigger inputs (when turned on) is 4.7K to 5V.

The reason is that it is a 2011 STI, so it has significant CAN bus integration, certainly at least much of the dashboard is CAN driven and I think probably the "SI drive"/DCCD system will need CAN messages from ECU too. We dont do a plugin for years beyond 2007 so we havent reverse engineered the CAN and therefore our firmware doesnt have a "2011 STI" CAN bus mode. Changing to V7-10 mode will not help. The problem is the cam signal inverting. My thoughts are the inverting cam signal is likely to be due to one of the following: The piggy-backed OEM ECU is influenecing the signal. My next suggestion would be to try running the engine with pin A21 at the OEM ECU temporarily disconnected. It might even be a good idea to power the sensor independent of the OEM ECU. The sensor is faulty - that is why we suggested swapping L & R sensors, it is unlikely to have 2 faulty sensors. Maybe this signal inverting behaviour is normal/by design and is just something we havent seen before. However we know of quite a few dealers/users running this late engine without drama so I'm not yet convinced it is normal. So my suggestion is first to try disconnecting OEM ecu (pin A21). If that doesnt help then the next step is to swap the sensors.

It will have a basic configuration in it already but you will have to step through every input and output in the ECU settings menu and ensure each one is set to match how you have wired it, what you have connected and the correct calibration of all sensors etc. Set engine capacity, fuel injector flow rate, fuel pressure and fuel settings in the fuel menu. Set ignition mode to wasted spark or distributor depending on what your engine has. Set up triggers like below and do a trigger calibration as per the help file. Read this section of the help file:

Ok, the next step would be check base timing and run a short log. That might give us a few more clues.

Huh? what are you saying? It was correct in the actual ECU but the map you attached was wrong?

ECU built in trigger pull up is 4.7K, so not strong enough for what the GS1005 wants.

Your ECCS widest slot is set to zero so the engine wont sync like that. For an RB25 it should be 24deg. To adjust that setting you need to set the "test eccs sync" to "on" so it unlocks, then you can manually type 24 into the widest slot field, then turn "Test ECCS sync" off again, do a store. Also Trigger offset doesnt look normal for a RB25 so you need to confirm that with a timing light (it is probably close enough to run).

You need the DI pull-up resistor turned on for the skyline VSS as far as I know. Do you reckon that "bounce" in the RPM could be caused by say the drive dog backlash or something else in the driveline? It could be trigger as you suspect but its just wierd that it seems to be associated with over-run conditions, I cant quite make the logical link between the trigger and over-run... Having said that, I had never heard of the "High Octane trigger kit" so just googled it, there is potentially a problem with it depending on how accurately their picture matches the actual kit you got. Their picture shows it is using a ZF/Cherry GS1005 sensor but it doesnt look like they have wired in the extra pull-up resistor these sensors require. These sensors get lazy without the manufacturer recommended pull-up. So can you confirm: Is the crank sensor a GS1005 (usually identifiable as red aluminium body with M12 thread)? Does it have a pull-up resistor in the wiring or connector etc? (maybe under heat shrink etc)? Is it powered by 12V?

To give a little more detail, fuel settings should be like so: TP would be the best option for your ignition table axis also. No, they would all potentially give you exactly the same power at WOT but the idea is you want to pick the strategy that will give you the best ability to control fuel mixture repeatably over a wide range of operating conditions. A TP load axis is usually the best option for an engine like yours.

Hi Neil, I have searched our email system and dont see one from you. I will send you a PM with service info.

Sorry, I think you have misunderstood what I wanted you to do. We still want trigger 2 connected to the LH intake cam but I wanted you to remove the sensor from the right hand cam and swap it with the LH sensor (this will prove if it is a faulty sensor). I dont know how difficult this is in this car - can you actually access the sensors without too much work? Also, we just noticed you have the pull-up resistor turned on on trigger 2. Since you are piggybacking with the OEM ecu then that will already have a pullup connected, you should turn the pullup off on trigger 2.

Injection should be set to sequential if you want semi-sequential operation. Note however your problem is not related to injection timing or injector wiring/pairing, you can squirt fuel in at any time and it will still run pretty reasonable regardless. If you have a backfire it means either there is a spark at the wrong time our a valve event at the wrong time (cam timing). So confirm coils are wired correct again - use the ignition test function. Confirm base timing and confirm timing is stable. Confirm there are no trigger errors - software is reporting realistic and stable RPM. Confirm cam timing looks ok. In the meantime you can also attach your map and a log so we can check there are no odd settings causing it.

Yes the Storm Black has 2 dedicated knock pins on the B connector so these are what you need to use. The note in the help file you refer to looks like a mistake, it is actually for the old blue storm which didnt have dedicated pins. I see that note has been corrected in the latest test version that I'm using now so it will be fixed soon. Sorry for the confusion

Usually a power cycle, then re-run of the firmware updater will be all that is needed. Im not sure what would have caused that error though. I assume you are using VTS V4.10.2? Yeah sorry I didnt attach it originally. I have now attached it to that original post.

Yeah it is just the way it works in our firmware.

Also have a look at the Pipo X11, it has multiple full size USB ports. There is another post on the forum here with someone using the Pipo X8 but that may be a bit of a more difficult shape to work with.

I tested this on the simulator and my valve moves but you have some pretty odd settings in there so its possibly getting itself tied in a knot. You're on quite old firmware so first update to 4.10.2. Then load in the attached map. With this map when you turn the key on the valve should wind all the way open (reset) then go back to about halfway open ready for startup. Please confirm if it does appear to move both ways with this map. new isc settings.pcl