Adamw

A small amount of trigger errors when cranking or stopping is not un-common so I suspect that is probably nothing to worry about for now. The MAP sensor at 0V could definitely cut all fuel depending on how the tuner has set up the fault values. You need to look at why that is not working. There are only 3 wires so it shouldnt be too hard to diagnose. 1 is gnd, 1 is 5V, 1 is signal. Find a pinout for your MAP sensor first then put a multimeter across the gnd & 5V wires, if those look ok then the next step would be to jumper the 5V wire to the signal wire (use a paper clip or something) and see if the ECU then sees 5V on the MAP analog input.

You can log each cylinder individually (Knk level Cyl X) or the general level of all knock sensors combined (Knk level global). If your thresholds and individual cylinder gains etc are set up correctly etc then you can just log knock count. You cannot log both sensors individually, they are combined into 1 "knock signal" before processing.

The G4+ Mini Plugin does have built in knock hardware and it is connected to the stock knocksensor/wiring.

I have just sent you a copy/paste of my original message to Cam. Let me know if that doesn't answer your questions.

Accel source is not really used for much. If you just have only the one VSS sensor connected to the ECU like the stock GTR has then do your setup like this:

Yes, it is not clear what Jason is wanting to achieve in this post but he did PM me some more info. I will reply here for others interest. I think he actually wants an analog voltage output to drive an electronic boost gauge in a Porsche. So yes, PWM via a low pass RC network would probably do it. The only problem I see is the ECU aux output is pulled high to 12V so if the boost gauge is expecting a 0-5V signal then there is potential it could see a full 12V under certain conditions and then the smoke would be released. You might want a voltage divider in that circuit too... Jason to answer your question about PWM frequency - Aux 1-4 can do 4000Hz max, Aux 5-8 can do 300Hz max.

With laptop connected to ECU, press F12 key to open up the Runtimes screen. Move to the triggers/limits tab. Crank the engine and have a look at the 3 parameters shown below. Both triggers should be green - Yes, and RPM should show 150-200.

Yes, if you have a G4+ then it is a bit more flexible than the examples above as you now have 8 virtual auxiliaries and you can also directly use analog voltages as conditions for some tables etc.

See pic below where to find the fault settings. Set the error high to 5.00 and error low to 0.00V that will disable the fault settings so they wont interfere with your testing. Once you are happy that the inputs are all working correctly then you can go back and put sensible fail safe values as fault settings for any critical sensors.

You cant (easily) install PC Link there as windows by default doesnt give read/write access to the program files directory. Re-install PC Link in the default location C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+

It certainly looks like a sensor or wiring issue. I cant see how the ECU could cause any drift like that. I would say the simplest fix is two splice both APS analog inputs to the same sensor. Perhaps not the absolute best option from a "fail safe" perspective but still quite commonly done and would quickly solve the issue.

The IAT part appears to match our "Std Bosch NTC" curve, here is the data from the help file: For the MAP sensor choose this type:

Sorry, I missed the fact you were using a plugin. Maybe some confusion with Joe's similar problem... DI2 on that ecu has special hardware connected internally (a strong pull down resistor) which is to detect the A/C request switch that is normally connected to that pin. It can possibly still be used for switch type inputs but that pin will not function correctly for frequency type inputs as you have learnt. @joemobile Is your ECU a plugin too?

I would do it the same way we do itb GTR's. You need to set fuel load source to MAP, have MAP sensor connected to manifold, leave fuel table axis as TP. You then have compensation for the idle valve and boost when you add it later. You then use the openloop lambda table spanned with MAP/MGP to take care of the fact you want different AFRs at different boost pressures since TP is locked at 100.

No sorry apparently not easy to get to on our car. You will have to "suck it and see" im sorry.

This is a known issue and should have been made fairly clear in the printed quick start guide that came with the ECU:

I would try swapping the wires at the ECU for your Ex Lh & Ex RH, dont change any settings just swap the wires at the ECU pins. If the "no signal" error moves from Ex LH to Ex RH than it confirms wiring/sensor issue. I think I have already mentioned this on to you via tech support - assuming all electrical/mechanical hardware is working, then this could possibly be your offset set wrong. It works for me. You might have to be connected to an ECU (and make sure it is on 4.10.2 firmware): We dont "force" you to use anything. Optical, hall or reluctor or any mix of either are perfectly acceptable. Yes. Do you really want to tune the left side of the engine different to the right?

This is really a limit of using modeled mode with TP as the load reference - it simply cant account for extra air entering the engine from any source but the TP. If you have a reasonably stable MAP at idle then you will probably get a better result by connecting that, otherwise it will need a change to traditional mode to allow use of the extra compensation tables. The reason these tables arent available in modeled mode is the whole idea is to base fuel delivery on calculated/predicted airflow. If you have no way for the ECU to "see" this increased airflow (such as MAP) then modeled mode isnt going to work.

The ADC's on the G4+ analog inputs have 10bit resolution. This gives you about 1023 "steps" from zero to full scale. 0-100% in 0.1% increments is also about 1000 steps, so you are getting the full precision that the hardware is capable of. One thing that you need to check is the voltage range of your TP sensor. If for instance it is only giving you a 2.5V change from closed to WOT then you are only going to be using half of the available ADC resolution. 1/1000 of throttle position should be more than enough to get an Alpha-N tune running perfectly fine.

Note if you see a 15 psi change when you connect your manifold reference something is wrong. Most engines will idle about 50kpa below atmosphere so I would only expect to see a ~8 psi drop.

The Ecu does not have audio output, you will need some form of standalone audio knock dectection equipment to tune the knock control system.

Delphi AC IAT

There is an ISC offset and often the target table would also not be set to go all the way to zero. So what you are seeing here is probably quite normal. You can see what is being commanded by using the runtimes screen. TP sub & main should closely match the sum of the Base target, ISC offset and CL trim.

Dont just go off the offset values quote in help as all engines vary a bit. There is a "Cam Angle Test" function in the software to determine the correct values for your engine. Use a test pulse count of 3 for the intake cams and 2 for the exhaust cams test. The procedure is well explained in the help file. The other user I was working with is via our tech support system. I cant remember all the details but it feels similar. The "no signal" error means exactly that - the ECU is not seeing any signal. If it is seeing the signal but the wrong timing or number of teeth etc, then you will get the "cannot sync" error. I dont know these engines well, but take a look at the picture linked in this post: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/4931-wiring-camshaft-angle-sensor-subaru-ej25/&do=findComment&comment=29659 Its pretty odd this picture shows a different pinout on the LH vs RH sensor. Do you know anyone with an oscilloscope? Where abouts are you in the world?

Hi Jason, You might have to be more specific. What specs do you need? You should be able to just select "2.5Bar" from the list and the calibration is done for you. What do you want the aux output to do?