Adamw

You have two options, You can just stick with running them wasted spark, you can pair the coil signal wires to a single ignition drive. Run coil 1 & 4 off ignition drive 1 and coil 2&3 to Ignition drive 2. If you want to do direct spark you can move the fan and AC wires to Ign 7 & 8 on the expansion connector, which will free up ign 3&4 to allow you to do direct spark.

If the manufacturer doesnot provide this data, then I would do 5A peak and 1.5A hold for a 2ohm injector. The general rule of thumb is for the peak do about 25% less than ohms law would calculate based on coil resistance then for the hold current use a 4:1 P/H ratio.

On the configuration page, check the Baro sensor is still set to "marine". If it is and it still reads incorrect then the sensor inside may have failed and you will need to contact tech support.

The knockblock only has a 3 pole (stereo) connector, it wont work well or at all with a 4 pole earbud/microphone set. Look for a basic cheap set without a microphone. Sorry I just found this info is not in the quickstart guide so I will get that fixed.

Correct. Sometimes they will work without an ignitor but you will have a very weak spark (and extreme timing drift). Your coil expects a falling signal to tell it to start charging (start of dwell), then will spark on the rising edge. A coil with built in ignitors is opposite to this - it starts charging on a rising edge then sparks on a falling edge. So without an ignitor and the ECU set to falling spark edge your coil is actually firing at the start of the dwell time (say about 3ms earlier than the ecu thinks). 3ms is not much angular timing error at low RPM, but as RPM increases, 3ms becomes quite a big angular error. This is where your "drift" comes from.

Just in case you are doing something wrong, here is a quick video showing me doing it: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmUKHSMtEXH5K7SU4 Also, re-download the .lcs file that I have attached to this post as I have fixed another incorrect reading channel since that last one. AIM Press x 10 Lam x 0.1.lcs

Yes, that signal shows there is no ignitor in the coil - I suspect the factory ECU must have the ignitor inside as this waveform shown appears to be an "ignition primary" wave form. Notice it initially sits at 13V, then drops to 0V, for about 3ms (dwell), then sharply rises to ~40V for the spark. If there were ignitors in the coils this waveform would be upside down, it would only be 0-5V or 0-12V and there would be no reflection or "ringing" from the spark. So yes, you will need to add an ignitor or change to coils with ignitors built in.

Our lowest cost ECU that has built in E-throttle controller is the Xtreme. Google suggests the coils are 4 wire so I assume they have built in ignitors. You will have to research that yourself. If they do they can be wired directly to ECU. If they dont then you will need two 4 channel ignitors to drive them. Our Thunder ECU has 2 EGT inputs built in, any of our other ECU's will need a EGT amplifier - either analog or CAN. Texsense have some nice analog ones: https://www.sens4speed.com/en/products/thermocouple-amplifier/thk-1250_46.html Any of our ECUs can do this. One thing Im not sure about is some M62's have an electronic thermostat that could be tricky to control. We dont have much info on it. No problem, that is prefered. If you want to use the standard ABS speed sensors for traction control then you will need the Thunder. The digital inputs on our other ECUs are too slow for the high tooth count speed sensors.

Then your arming threshold table is set too high. Change it to match my screenshot below. It would have been nice to post that trigger scope here so we can have a quick look for other problems. The trigger scope attempts to capture something close to one engine cycle, the trigger 2 on your engine only outputs one pulse per cycle so that is expected. Not easily in the native .llg format. Just share the file via google drive or onedrive etc.

The oscilloscope picture above shows the coil doesn’t have a built in ignitor, you will have to use an external one.

Thanks for the scope pic. That looks ok. Crank sensor wiring is correct. Since the rising and falling edge of trig 2 is close to the gap that can potentially be an issue. I would try setting sync mode to "Cam Level" in this case (offset may need changing by 360 if it wont start after that change). The picture of the coil doesnt help much and I cant find much info on it. How sure are you that it does have built-in ignitors?

Many Toyotas have very low voltage coming out of the cam sensor especially when cold cranking is slow. Start by doing a trigger scope on a cold cranking engine so we can see if this may be the problem. Try to capture this on a log will be helpful.

Try below. If your level sensor resistance is 4-120Ohm, then this will give you an output something like 0.2V -2.7V. The filter will dampen a "step change" over about 1minute.

Im having trouble understanding what you are trying to do but your relay wiring sounds completely wrong... Why do you even need a relay? The ECU aux will send a ground out whenever it is active. Cant you use this directly to switch your main relay?

You will need a pullup more like 200ohm will also need some heavy filtering to prevent the reading bouncing up and down with fuel slosh. I will post a circuit you can try later.

Hi, we need some more info. How are you going to get the required air into the engine - a throttle kicker, E-throttle, or are you going to have throttle blade jacked open full time? Have you taken care of the brakes so they will still work with no vacuum?

Hi Eivind, I dont see anything wrong in your settings and I also loaded your map into an ecu here and it run direct spark no worries. I have only a couple of suggestions; Upgrade firmware to latest - the 5.6.5.3303 version that you are using had multiple problems and was pulled quickly after it was released, so its not a version I have great confidence in. Also maybe try just a flat 4.0ms in your dwell table. Some LS coils do weird stuff with more than 4.5ms which might be happening with your current dwell table.

TP (sub) is only for E-throttle, you do not need it. If you have an analog input assigned to TP sub, just turn it off.

Closing up Friday afternoon 22nd Dec, Reopen on 3rd Jan.

Ok, I'm sorry to say this suggests its likely some failed hardware on the bottom board then. Can you submit the service request form here: http://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/ and get it back to us for inspection. For the fault description on the form you can just link to this thread.

If you were testing between 97 & ground then that is wrong. To test the ground output out of pin 97 you would want to connect your test light/multimeter like so: One probe to pin 97, the other to battery +ve. The lamp should glow or the multimeter should show 12V when you turn ignition on.

If you have too much cranking advance it can cause the engine to kick back but it doesnt sound like that too me. To test if this is the cause you can just unplug the coils and try cranking - if it cranks faster when there is no spark then you could possibly conclude it is related to a timing issue.

Can you confirm the number of teeth on the crank trigger? Is it one of those “flying magnet” types with 4 magnets?

If you havent connected them to anything then turn them off.

You have AN Volt 4,5 & 6 set up as generic 0-5V channels and they are presently all measuring below what you have set up as the error low voltage. If they are not connected to anything then turn them off. If they are connected to something then set their error conditions up to something more suitable.