Adamw

Hi Muzzytt, This release has been circulating a while now and we havent had any major show stoppers reported. There is a problem with the dual fuel table when set to overlay mode so if are using that feature then this may be your problem. You can downgrade firmware if you believe there is a problem. Can you send me a copy of your .pclr so I can take a quick look. It would be good if you have a copy from before the upgrade too. Send to:

Since you have no trigger 2, you will need trigger 2 sync mode set to "none". I'm not at work today but I think I remember the map you sent me the other day had trig 2 set to cam pulse.

Our TT plugin only sends a standard analog RPM signal out of the Aux out. There is no RPM data in the CAN stream that I can see. I can only tell you the "analog" tacho signal that the Thunder is sending out is exactly the same as our TT plugin is sending out. I checked our plugin has no extra pull-up or hardware on the tacho circuit. Unlikely. VAG seem to change their CAN stream more often than I change my underwear. Our stream seems to be compatible with most of the models it was designed for. We have had reports of ABS or ESP lights not functioning correctly on some supposedly similar platforms such as VW Golfs and Seats. Have you tried the VW golf GTI stream? The functionality of the two CAN ports are identical.

Hi Integrale8v, I just had another thought that might work. I admit its a bit of a long shot but I dont have a E39 handy to test... If you are not using flex fuel you might be able to set your AC request DI as Ethanol content sensor. With a ECS, the fuel temperature is based on the received pulse width, so I suspect you may be able to see a change in the "Ethanol temp" parameter based on the AC request duty cycle. You can then use a virtual aux with "ethanol temp <" & ethanol temp >" to drive the ac clutch.

I think the sample thunder map supplied with the software might be a few firmware versions old from before we upgraded to 8 virtual aux's. Here is .pclr you can play with, this copy I saved from a thunder with the latest firmware so it should have all the latest changes visible: https://linkecu-my.sharepoint.com/personal/adam_linkecu_com/_layouts/15/guestaccess.aspx?docid=14017a81874ee4be69ec237beb876fb1e&authkey=AVU02LovGnb_ZbGaV38zWVo I dont really want to promise anything since its not in my control but to give you a very rough idea, going by recent history we have done a firmware release approx every 3 months on average. The last one was about 2 months ago so lets say maybe 1-2months?

I see this one is on the wish list already but it is a fair way down. I will add a +1 to it. Due to the lack of requests it probably wont happen anytime soon.

I can confirm the turbospeed missing from DI11 to DI16 is just an oversight. The firmware team says there is quite a bit of work to do to add this but it is planned to be ready in time for the next software/firmware release. I think this one is going to be a bit difficult to achieve. We dont really do complete "cal swaps" like some of the higher end motorsport ecu's do. I think you can possibly do most of what you wish with virtual auxs although without thinking it through in great detail you might burn up the 8 availible pretty quick, basically I think you will need one per switch position. You should be able to set up a virtual aux for instance to activate when your analog 1 (potentiometer) is between 1.25 and 1.50V, and use that to switch between a couple of your "maps" You can use that same virtual aux to change for instance a boost table and DBW table at the same time. There might be smarter ways to combine some of the virtual aux's but I would need to have a play myself.

The red faults are just when analog inputs go beyond the fault settings you define. If for instance you disconnect a sensor this will happen. It is unlikely anything to worry about. You can disable them by setting the low to 0V and the high to 5V. Then clear the fault codes after that.

I havent personally used that one but we do have a CAN template for it in the software so it should be reasonably simple to get it to work. My feeling for the most popular ones our users tend to go for are these two below (although 8 channel): https://www.diyautotune.com/product/can-egt-8-channel-thermocouple-interface/ https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Products/CAN_Modules/EGT_Module/EGT-2000/

Use windows explorer, right click on the layout file and set attribute to "Read only" PC Link then cant save the modifications and it will revert back to the unmolested state every time you close/reopen PC Link.

It sounds like you are not doing a store after making changes? Are you pressing F4 or Ctrl+S after you turn it off?

Sorry, I initially posted a screenshot from the G4+ then realized you have a G4. In the G4 the stoich ratio is assumed to be 14.7. This is not as big a deal as it may sound as unlike OEM ecu's this ECU doesnot use a VE based model. Provided your wideband controller outputs a normal gasoline calibration most of it will take care of itself. You just need to tune to gasoline AFR's instead of E85.

This would certainly not be a good idea. For the Hall CAS you can use the 8V out. For the others these should be wired to the main relay, the same source as the ECU. This is so the ECU can measure injector supply voltage and compensate properly. These must switch off with the ignition switch.

The hardware is just not in the ECU to allow much or any improvement over what we currently have. It will certainly be high on the priorities for the next generation ECU but that is still some time away yet.

JayGow's example is the correct use of a digital input status as a condition.

Hi Jar, Sorry for my slow reply. I just tested this on a live Thunder and see the same problem. I suspect this is probably just a firmware oversight and some functions have been missed from the list. I will talk to the engineering team tomorrow to confirm that and post back my findings.

Yes, it appears to have the same guts as the normal nissan CAS so you can continue to use it for engine position. Trigger set up will stay the same. You will need to remove the "ign 1" wire from the 6 pin connector.

The cam teeth look to be the same as our "holden V6 alloytec II" mode, I assume it probably has 60-2 on the crank - this will be inside the crankcase. What we dont know is if the phasing between crank/cam matches the holden mode so we would need to see some sort of scope trace or a drawing of the trigger pattern before confirming. Also note according to google this engine has variable length intake tracts and an electronic thermostat so you might need to research what is needed to control those too.

Hi James, If I remember right you have race type ITB's correct? You will possibly not get it much better - you can only do so much with ignition timing. You dont see race type ITB's on many road engines and most race guys dont mind holding the throttle open a little manually until it warms up... However I think you could possibly rehash that idle ign table to make it a little more effective. I would try something more like this: With a table like this because it will be quite retarded at normal warm idle speeds you will need to open the throttle stop quite a bit more than it currently is. I think having the throttle open more will help when its cold. So to set this up, warm up your engine to normal running temp using your existing idle table. Once warm, change idle table to something like my example. Start the car and adjust the throttle stop so that the normal warm engine idles around the zero target error cell. If it is not happy idling with zero degrees ignition you might have to bump that up a little but the idea is we want to give it the bare minimum it needs when warm.

Normally camshaft angle is closed loop with feedback from a cam position sensor. If you drive one set of camshafts blind with no feedback it is very unlikely they will follow the commanded position very well, at least for any period of time. Maybe for a few minutes they will follow each other but after that variables such friction, clearances, leakage, oil pressure, vibration, solenoid characteristics etc will push the camshafts further and further out of sync.

The tables that have an RPM axis that stops before the normal redline will just hold the same value from the last cell at any higher RPM so none of those listed are part of your problem. The fastest way to get to the bottom of it is to do a PC Log with all parameters recorded, email that and a copy of your .pclr to Please include a link to this thread so we know what its about. How to do PC log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Also if you can do a trigger scope at idle that might give some clues too.

Oh yeah, I see what you mean about the % in the load table. I will see if I can get that on the fixit list. I havent seen any odd behavior with the ECU logging or had any similar reports recently, can you send me a copy of your .pclr and I will see if I can reproduce it. Include a link to this thread in your email so I know what it is about.

I just done a quick google to learn a little about this engine and I dont think we could support the vanos on this engine. I assume it is like other BMW's that have two solenoids per cam? - one for advance and one for retard. That would need 8 aux outputs and currently the firmware only allows 4 VVT outputs. The trigger pattern is also unknown. Most likely the crank is 60-2 and one of the cam patterns may match one of the other BMW triggers we support so if you were prepared to loose the vanos you could probably run it fine.

Yes, just those two inputs will work fine. One thing I would suggest however, leave the two temp inputs set up just like they have sensors connected (i.e. dont turn these temp inputs off). Make sure the error value is set to some typical running value like I have shown in the example below. That will then make the ECU think air temp is 20°C all the time and engine temp is 90°C. This is just so later when you add these sensors and injection you wont have to re-tune your ignition curve much.

All 5v and gnd out pins are internally connected so you are free to mix and match