Adamw

Is this what your distributor looks like?: If so it will be a bit of a trick. You really need to get at the raw signal from the pickup before it goes into that ignition amp. I dont know what they look like inside so you may be able to intercept/splice into it inside? I see you can get "ignition amp relocation kits" for these so that might be another option. Or you could get rid of that amp altogether and get the ecu to drive the coil (will still need another amp).

Yes. Have a read of Simons first post again, he already answered that.

What sensor do you have or what is the calibration values?. I will give you a screenshot once we have that info

Yes those are all possible. Boost table and logging enable use the generic "CAN DIG" inputs, Traction disable is available as a CAN receive parameter. Below is the list of presently available CAN inputs.

Most connectors will have the pin numbers moulded into them, clean them up and take a closer look.

Ok, the problem during cold start is the idle valve is already fully open, so it cant open any further to bring the RPM up to the target idle. You base table suggests it also needs to be 50% open even for normal warm idle so it seems when it was set up originally the throttle blade stop was too far closed. You are going to have to wind the throttle stop in some more and then retune the idle control settings. I can help you do it on here but it is going to take a few logs and backwards and forwards tweaks to get it working reasonable. It might be easier if you can get wifi access near your car then I can log in via teamviewer and set it up live. Email me at if you want to arrange a time to do that.

I only removed stuff that I thought you wouldnt use or that racepak dont read. For instance I dont think you will ever use MAF so I removed MAF channel. Racepak V-net only reads one wheel speed so I removed the other 3. Racepak doesnt read Knock trims so I removed 8 channels of knock. You dont have VVT so I remove 4 camshaft position channels. Etc... You cant add any new data channels that are not normally included in the "generic Dash stream" as the racepak module is fixed and cant be customised by the end user. No, the CAN set up is now just stored as part of your "tune" file. It will not be affected by firmware updates. Whatever the problem is, it seems to be unique to you only. My best guess is your Vnet module is faulty but its difficult to confirm without a more in-depth look with a CAN sniffer etc. All I can say is there are many hundreds of these dashes and Vnet modules same as yours out there all working fine with Link ECU's. I have personally set up a couple and they worked right out of the box with no special tricks needed.

Yeah the offset will be used say if your speedo is out 10kmh at all speeds, the multiplier will be used if say the error is linear - for instance the error at 100khm is double the error at 50kmh

Your wiring is incorrect. Cam signal should go to pin B12. Crank signal should go to B16.

Yes, provided your speedo is electronic and you connect it to the ecu, then you can adjust it. You need to connect the speedo to aux 1-8, assign the aux to "speedo out". You will then get these settings:

Ok, it seems your Vnet adapter doesnt like it when we put too much load on the bus. RPM and MAP are the first two bytes of data in the message so for some reason it is too slow to keep up and starts skipping these bytes. So in the file attached to this post I have removed all the redundant channels that you were not using, hopefully that might reduce the load enough to make it happy. RPM and MAP are now real values so the engine will need to be running. Give this one a go and let us know what happens. Racepak-dash Test4.pclr

Sorry I missed your earlier post. You can set the dwell table to have whatever you want on the axes. If the V7 base map has the setup you want to run then just open that map, right click on the dwell table, select import/export>export to clipboard. Then open your map, go to dwell table, right click, select import/export>import from clipboard. Store before shutting down.

You can already put acceleration on the traction and launch table axes. Is this not what you mean? GPS is ok for high speed traction control as it is can be quite accurate when moving (provided you have very good signal), but it is very poor at low speed, standing starts etc. Since you were originally talking about "in 1st and 2nd gear", for decent results I suspect you would need one of the high-end units that incorporate accelerometers and other physics into their speed output calculation to overcome the large lag GPS normally inherits from standing start. Something like this would probably give better results: http://www.gmheng.com/speed_sensor.php

Ok, so now try this one. In this one I have removed all bus load and just left the counting RPM/MAP. See if this gives smooth incrementing values with no dropouts. Racepak-dash Test3.pclr

What do you mean by "AFR graph"? Do you mean target table? Perhaps you can add some screenshots.

Your screen shot above on the Feb 1 post shows you have trig 1 set to reluctor, the AEM EPM is hall as far as I know. So set both trig 1 and 2 to optical/hall, turn on the pullup resistor. Make sure trig 2 sync mode is set to cam pulse 1X. If you still get no RPM then post a triggerscope.

Ok, thanks. Here's another test file to try just like you did above, in this file I have made RPM and MAP live values (they will just count up/cycle automatically) and I have added in all the other channels to try to load up the bus more. Run it for a few minutes with engine off, if that looks ok, then run it for a few minutes with the engine running. Let me know what you observe. Racepak-dash Test2.pclr

No sorry, the OEM OBD2 port will no longer function. The G4+ is capable of OBD2 output but it is a generic broadcast and wont respond to any of the common emission or readiness type requests.

Actually, traditional wheel slip based traction control doesnt work with an AWD where all 4 wheels are spinning. In high end motorsport they use Lidar/Radar or high speed GPS to get a more true ground speed but most of that is costly. Maybe acceleration based launch control will be an easier option?

I would expect you should be able to get reasonable idle control with a set up like this. Most likely just a tune issue. Can you log a cold start and post that and your map here so we can take a look. This video is for G4+ but the logging setup for the V series is very similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Hi Peter, Can you load the attached map into your ECU. I have set this up to send a continuous 3000RPM and 300KPa MAP signal to the dash. You will not need the engine running - just ignition on. Only these two channels will be live, nothing else will show. Please let me know if your Dash reads RPM & MAP continuously with the ecu running this file (engine not running). If that seems to work then next I want you to start the engine and check we still get continuous RPM/MAP (they will be fixed at 3000/300). That will help us eliminate some of the possibilities. Racepak-dash Test.pclr

Hi Peter, I dont see anything wrong in your dash config. Im sorry I cant put many logical reasons to your symptoms, my feeling is leaning towards the Vnet module being faulty or programmed incorrectly (I know you already said its been serviced but I dont know what that involves of if it is tested in any way). Tomorrow when I have a bit more time I will give you a screenshot of a new can set up we can try with a "fake" RPM signal only transmitted to see if we can get any other clues.

Blaine's Dash was a Haltech branded item that doesn't use a Vnet adapter. His comment wouldn't apply to you since your dash isn't a Haltech branded version and you are using a Vnet adapter.

OK, now we are getting somewhere. That is not a CAN port. That is USB for the PC connection only. The CAN port is inside (2 of them) and you will need another CANPCB cable to access it. http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANPCB_2

Ok, CAN settings in your map look ok and when I load it into an ECU here Im getting correct looking data broadcast out. So Im running out of ideas, but your errors suggest there is no acknowledge coming from the dash. I assume you are using a Link CANPCB cable(not a 3rd party item) for connecting to the CAN socket and it is plugged into the 5pin socket labelled CAN1/RS232? Can you try swapping the CAN H & CAN L over (no harm can be done).