Adamw

They are quite similar so you will be able to make it work with some changes to the wiring. From memory the main difference is because of the firing order, so injector drives 2,4,5,6 are on different pins and same with ignition channels 2,4,5,6. Most of the other differences are subtle such as the DI's for A/C, powersteer and a couple of the auxes which can probably just be swapped in the software. I will have a closer look on Monday and confirm. Remind me if I dont post back here on Monday.

Around 4A continuous for Aux9/10. We reports from a couple of users driving the S54 system reliably after removing 3 of the 7 springs. There is one spring on the motor & six on the ITBs.

It can be done. It would be best to request it at the time of order then it doesnt need to be shipped back to us for modification. Note if you contact tech support we will also give you the circuit required to get the TP out signal from the Thunder to make the GTR Attessa work.

No you are basically running open loop so the ecu will just command whatever the wG DC table has in it. The firmware wouldnt effect that. I suspect something else is at play. So would you say now that changing the numbers in the wastegate table probably didnt make much difference? i.e the boost now is about the same as you had when you tried bigger numbers? Can you also give more info on your setup - turbos, wastegates, 3port or 4 port valve etc

So if you open up the wastegate table in the currently loaded map, does it still have the original values in it or has it got the increased numbers?

As for a new/current ECU, the lowest cost option we have that does E-throttle is the G4+ Xtreme.

The map that you attached above has got the bigger numbers in the wastegate dc table so it you must have saved them permanently somehow - done a store or something? You can either manually change those numbers back or just load in your old map

Yes

The injector drives output a ground when on, so; Injector drive to 86. Switched +12V source to 85. Your other wires are ok. This is out of the G4+ help but I would say there will be a similar diagram in the G4 help also:

The log shows a max of about 24psi with it settling at 21-22. You were only at 50% throttle though so I expect that will climb with more throttle. So if you are sure that boost has definitely increased just by increasing DC in the wastegate table then I think we can conclude that the mechanical systems, wiring and ecu is all working and capable, it is just the tune preventing you getting there. I wouldnt be keen to go pushing things much more than that until the map is fixed up.

I suspect this might be a hardware issue. Can you please send an email to

Does the DI3 AC request runtime turn green when you switch on the AC switch?

In your latest scope, trigger 1 looks ok but Trigger 2 is not correct now? Have a look back on page one at the post by "cj", that is what the pattern should look like.

Can you post your current map please.

Lambda is already broadcast as part of the standard DASH2PRO stream:

As Brad says, the important 0-5V sensors need to be powered by the ECU 5V reference supply (and grounded to the ECU sensor ground). This would normally be MAP, TPS, APS and any pressure sensors. Any other sensors that require 8 or 12V are less important and probably can get there power from anywhere. It would be very unusual to have a MAP sensor needing 8V.

You will probably need two pumps in that case as they tend to get expensive once you need more than about 600HP on E85. I had the Walbro 455/465 in mind but that would probably be too small depending on what boost you are needing to reach your target.

That's weird, looking at Scott's config it all looks ok to me but the easy fix will be to put a divider of 10 in the Link CAN stream like this:

The arming Threshold is only used for reluctor sensors. The ECCS sync flag is only used for the Nissan 360 opto triggers like RB/SR's etc had. So neither of these are relevant to your engine. You've still got trigger errors incrementing quickly due to the odd waveform on trigger 1 so that still needs a closer look at.

The little info I have found on this engine is the actuators are controlled over CAN bus. I vaguely remember seeing mention somewhere that they can be modified to bypass the CAN and get a direct connection to the motor but you will have to either research that yourself or open one up. We dont currently have all the functionality in the Link software/firmware to control these actuators properly over CAN.

The table units is percent now, so what I meant by adding 15% is change the 40's to 55. change the 25's to 40. Obviously some of the bigger ones will top out at 100. Dont worry about the PID's yet, just try the table.

Note you still have two spare injector outputs and 5 spare ignition outputs that you can use for auxilaries. Personally I would rather look for a more suitable single pump than going to two pumps but from a ECU perspective you are free to do it either way. Unless you have some old junk laying around that you intend to use, to do the two pump setup if you add the cost of the new pump together with the extra plumbing/tees/check valves etc that you will need you would probably be near the cost of a new decent single pump. If you want to do two "staged" pumps, then below is one way you could control the 2nd pump - in this example the second pump will turn on when injector duty cycle is above 30%:

Your "stutter" I suspect is just a rich misfire? If we can believe your lambda readings it is running crazy rich, you have 0.54 on one bank and 0.58 on the other in the area where it misfires. I think your boost problem is just the Wastegate DC% table has numbers too small and you have all PID's set to zero so it is effectively doing no correction at all. Try adding about 15% to all numbers in your wastegate DC% table and do another log. I would also suggest you do a firmware update as you are on quite an old version and there was some changes made to boost control since then.

One pin goes to switched 12V source, the other pin goes to the ECU aux output.

If you are in the UK the old 1990's style bosch ones should be easy to find - many euro cars used them. You want the 2 wire version rather than the 3 wire version. They just have 2 common size rubber hose ports so will be the easiest to adapt. This sort of thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252247552871