Adamw

Please attach your map and I will take a look.

Yes you should be using the G4+ software. There should not be any "latency issues" - it should work justs as well as the iVTS software so you might have some other problem but it wont hurt to update to the latest G4+ firmware also.

Sorry, no. The engine configuration is locked to Rotary only on these ECU's.

It almost sounds like you might have sub and main swapped. Is your pinout like this 3UR?:

APS sounds correct. The tp calibration can fail if PID aren’t close enough so that is potentially some of your problem. Is this throttle body the one with the clutch? Do you have that energized?

That suggests there is no connection from the CAS/distributor to the ECU.

The older "non-plus" G4 ECU's did not have a end-user configurable CAN receive. Any CAN receive templates had to be coded in to the firmware. The only CAN EGT device that could be used with the G4 is the Motec E888 (I expect also the equivalent Race Grade TC8 will work).

Correct. From the 5V output of course...

None of the common G1's could do staged injection. There are possibly a couple of special firmwares such as rotaries that could do staged but that is not going to help you. On the V5, I think alternative map sensor options were only available at the time of order and were custom written into the firmware at the time. Not end user selectable in software.

Unfortunately no, these are pretty basic systems with no staged or auxiliary injection function.

Press F12 to open up the runtimes screen. Move to the triggers tab. Watch Trig 1, trig 2 and Eng speed while cranking. Trig 1 & 2 should turn green and say yes. Eng speed should show about 150-250 if all ok. Let us know if these look ok.

This is not something I have experienced before but here's a thought: What about a controlled "leak" like my drawing below. Under relatively steady state conditions the vacuum/lower pressure would "leak out" of the restrictor so BOV will stay closed. Under sharp transients the leak through the restrictor wouldnt be fast enough yo upset the pressure differential so BOV should still act as expected. Restrictor size would be trial and error.

Those are your CAN H & CAN L, cant tell you which is which but would assume it is mentioned in their manual. The DB9 connector is quite commonly used for CAN - although more in industrial control than automotive. The linked NZEFI CAN pigtail is a good option or you can get a CANPCB cable off a link dealer and either chop the end off to use your own connector or connect to it with our matching CANF plug. I suspect that device will need a terminating resistor added also.

If you want more than 2 positions then most likely a multi-position rotary switch is the best option. It will be connected to 5V to give a 0-5V input. There are various manufacturers offering these. There is a thread here with an example setup:

A couple of pages below from the help file: Edit - added this comment later: That Aux9/10 supply should ideally come from a separate ecu controlled "e-throttle relay" as shown below. This is a safety feature so the ECU can shut down power to the E-throttle if one of the safety watchdogs are tripped.

Can you do us a quick log and attach that and your map here, That should give us more clues as to where the error is coming from. How to do the PC Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Hi DMC, Thanks to user @Ducie54, he messaged me some settings from his old GTiR map. His trigger offset was -107° so try it around there.

I suspect the reason for no spark coming out of the plug leads will just be because your trigger offset is wrong so the spark is going into the distributor when the rotor is not lined up with a post. Unfortunately I dont have any sample maps from a GTiR to look at so I dont know what the offset is on one of these. I would try adding 30deg increments to the offset and keep trying until a spark comes out of a plug lead, You are right that the spark from the coil however should be relatively regular so that seems odd, is ignition mode set to distributor? I would try adjusting the offset as above until we get a spark at the plug then we will look closer at the intermittent spark then if we need to.

I mostly only tune race cars (so no overrun fuel cut or idling at lights etc) but here is my common setup and I get good results with this:

No sorry our TT plugin doesnot have onboard wideband sensor controllers.

Ok, your map all works ok on the bench. You likely have a wiring or sensor issue. Below is the most common pressure sensor pinout although I'm sure I have seen a variation. Does your pinout match this? Gnd and 5v swapped maybe?

If you attach the map I can load it into an ECU and put a simulated signal into it, that is often a quick way to eliminate settings as the issue. From your screenshot it looks ok but there are other influences such as the analog fault settings that could be at play. Yes pin 27 will be good. splice location is not critical, you can do near the ecu or near the air flow meter plug.

For your fuel pressure issue I suggest you attach your map so we can first check your settings are correct. From your voltage readings though it almost sounds like you might have the pinout wrong. I would have expected more like 0.5V between sig and gnd at rest. For the AEM gauge, the brown wire should be connected to sensor ground. If connected to power ground there will often be an offset - and that offset will often change with electrical load such as when headlights or fans switch on. Having said that an error of 2.8psi from a 150psi sensor is only 2% so its not too bad.

Can you attach your Map so I can take a look.

That one appears to be the same/similar GM one that we sell. No external pullup required.