Adamw

Set up the same as the BA XR6 info in the help file. Crank sensor wired to Trigger 1. Inlet Cam wired to Trigger 2. Ex cam wired to Digital input 1 - 4. Trigger 2 serves two purposes - certain teeth are looked at so the ECU knows what "phase" of the engine cycle it is on (ie exhaust or compression stroke), it is also used to control the VCT position. So the Ignition timing will always be right regardless of the cam position - the majority of engine position info comes from the crank.

If the arming threshold is too high then then the ecu will start to “skip” the teeth that have the lowest amplitude, if the threshold is too low then the ecu may count “noise” as a real tooth. Any time the ecu sees more or less teeth (even just 1) than it is told to expect then there will usually be clear symptoms - dwell scatter is usually the most obvious as the ecu struggles to back calculate where to start the dwell from when time period between teeth is varying so much. Toliski’s logs do not exhibit any of these symptoms.

Ok, I thought you were originally talking about arming threshold which didnt fit your symptoms well. Dwell will certainly have an impact on ignition energy which fits your misfire problem better so that could well explain your fix.

It sounds like you started with a fuel table that was set up for a traditional ms based equation. The software will not automatically calculate or create the fuel table numbers for you, they will just stay at whatever they were in the map that you started from. For a closer starting point you could just copy and paste the fuel table out of one of our modelled maps such as the atom/monsoon samples.

You can turn on the "dual fuel table" (under fuel corrections folder) if you want two fuel maps. However you shouldnt need two separate maps just for a change in boost pressure, you would normally have MAP or MGP already as one axis of the fuel table so the same fuel table should cover any boost pressure - you just need to make sure all cells that the engine can hit during high boost or low boost settings are all tuned.

You will typically see 45-65% "VE" at idle on most common automotive engines. This may not accurately reflect real life VE if for instance you were measuring the real VE with air flow measuring equipment but it is within the limitations of a model/equation based on MAP. Have a look at our Atom or Monsoon base maps for a typical modelled fuel table (these are set up to be on the safe/rich side) so on a properly tuned table you would see maybe 10% smaller numbers than these examples.

I see you have Digital input 1 assigned to "dual ECU", this could certainly put the ignition outputs in an odd state so turn that off. That function is designed for aircraft where you have 2 ecus for redundancy - the ignition channels would be put into a floating state so as to not interfere with the second ecu taking control.

Your wiring sounds correct. Normally the ecu ign output will be about 6V for the dwell period and 0V for spark. So it should be outputting 0V most of the time when ignition is on. Are your ignition outputs definitely assigned as ignition and not auxiliaries? Can you post your map so I can take a look?

Just FYI in case anyone is wondering why this post isnt being answered: Jed also sent a tech support request through the normal channels yesterday. AC control is complex on the Mini with many temp & pressure inputs coming in via CAN. I have asked Jed to give us a log so we can see what is missing from the equation.

I have my doubts that this is your problem, it will be interesting to hear if it still seems fixed after more time. There are no signs of any trigger errors in any of the logs that you have posted to date - dwell and RPM traces are very stable which would usually indicate engine position is calculating well. Lowering the arming threshold at high RPM would usually cause more errors, not less. Here is some instructions from the help file:

2000's might be pushing it with petrol but 1700's will be fine provided you get them from a reputable supplier that gives accurate characterisation data - specifically short pulse width adders will be imporatant for you (Injector Dynamics do give you this info, many others dont.)

I think we would need to see the log and map to work out the cause here.

Most likely you will just need to reduce your "master Fuel" number a little. Yours is presently set at 12ms, since your injectors are about 8% bigger then reducing this number to 11 should reduce the pulse width by about 8% and get you in the ball park. You may even need to drop it a little further but try it and see. Also once you actually get to the tuner, please suggest to them that they do a firmware update before they tune - yours is very old and there have been many fixes and improvements since.

We have little info on this engine but the triggering likely will match one of our existing Suburu modes. Is this engine "quad AVCS"? One of our WRX maps will likely be a reasonable starting point, although they would be set up to use MAP. MAF will not be easy without the calibration data for the MAF.

You wont be able to do either option easily. Sending a "simulated sensor" signal out of the ecu would need analog voltage outputs which the Xtreme doesnt have natively. It could be done using PWM outputs and a RC filter but it is going to be a lot of messing around to get it to work accurately. To do the other option you would first need to reverse engineer the communication network that system is using, then built some sort of interface than converts from the ECU CAN or predefined Serial streams to the Defi protocol. It will be easiest to duplicate the sensors. They could also be shared but you will need some equipment to verify the calibrations.

The best way to get some clues for what Aux 1 was connected to will be to look at the map. I would not do a firmware update yet as if that is on really old firmware (prior to 4.4), you will have lots of settings to fix after the update. You should still use the latest VTS (V4.10.2) to connect to the ECU and save the map out of it. To power up you just need ground on pin 34 and +12V on pin 5. Connect to VTS (green online indicator at top right of screen), then go >file>save as.

You will need the "Circuit opening relay", this controls the main relay that supplies power to fuel pump relay and injectors etc. This may not need to be connected to the ECU but it will need to be connected to something. You will have to research how the circuit works in this car or post up a schematic and I can advise. I cant find any info about what the "port air solenoid" does - I suspect it is emissions related but dont know. The PRC solenoid is not needed, this would have originally been used to increase the fuel pressure during hot starts. Get rid of that solenoid and just connect Fuel pressure reg hose direct to manifold. The other two solenoids controlled the Air valve so they are not needed either.

If the ST185 dwell table works better for you then by all means please use it.

Here is something to get you started. You will need to check trigger offset yourself with a timing light. You will need to check my input and output assignments match your wiring (Note I have assigned Tacho and fan under ign outputs). G4+ Atom 4AGE 20V Stock NA startup.pclr

Correct, no aftermarket ECUs use the feedback pin, commonly called ICMB or IGF. Just 3 wires needed to each coil.

Hi Jimmy, I dont have a basemap but it is a simple engine and I do have enough info and experience to knock up something that will get you running. Can you give me a quick rundown of your engine... Is it stock injectors, NA or turbo, still distributor?

For the TB, you can pretty much use anything but it will be easier for you if you can get one of the models that we have tuning information for to fit. There is at least a partial list in the help file below, but that may be missing some, for instance we have plugin ecu's for WRX V10 and audi TT but they seem to be missing from that list. If you want to use something else and are not familiar with PID tuning then you could send it to us for testing (this would be free). For the pedal, again you can use almost anything that will fit in the space. @Brad Burnett has often suggested on here a Suburu one that is a nice universal design (he may pop in to give more info later). The last install I done I found a VW at a "u-pull-it" type place that was nice and easy (forget what the model was).

If either of you guys have any decent information on how the alternator works and what it needs to control it I will take a closer look at if we can do it.

You are limited to 30 tables in the G4+ ECU's (It is usually quite difficult to use them all up!) , but you have already used up all 30, that's why it wont allow you to add the last. When I loaded your map into an ecu here PCLink popped up a warning saying that too many tables were allocated so it should have been clear. You can see what your tables have been assigned to by viewing the "table allocation" item at the bottom of the ECU settings tree I will paste a copy of yours below. You dont really need all individual cylinder trims active unless you have individual lambda probes in each primary to be able to tune individual cylinders. A Typical install wouldnt use them at all but some tuners might turn on one or two to add a little extra fuel to the hottest cylinder if they know the engine is prone to damaging certain cylinders. You also have 4 individual cylinder trims enabled which is unlikely needed.

Unfortunately no sorry. The next firmware release is still a few months away, I have been pushing to have this function fixed for release so hopefully it will be.