Adamw

It doesn't sound like a trigger problem. Can you post your .pcl so we can have a look over the settings. Also a pc log of cranking might be helpful. Is the sensor a 1gt101?

Yes the G4 had 4 or 5d fuel and ignition tables. in the download section of Links website you wil find the G4 software, if u download and install that it will have a storm base map in it's directory.

If you input the calibration points as they are listed on the sensor manufacturers datasheet, the ecu will measure/read/display in gauge pressure.

Although it may be possible to calibrate your sensors in absolute I cant see why you would ever want to? Assuming this is a car and not a spaceship... If you look at your oil pressure in a log for instance you dont want to be mentally subtracting atmosphere from it every time. You really only need absolute pressure for MAP or EMAP to calculate density, any other pressure measurement I can think of on a car should be gauge pressure.

I cant think of many explanations for the 30deg change... My logic would say since there are only two teeth on the crank if say something changed with Trig 2 (say positon or trigger edge) then you would expect timing to move by one crank tooth which in your case is 180deg. The Evo "teeth" are about 65deg "wide" so if you had a trigger edge wrong on trig 1 the offset would change by 65deg. I dont have any other ideas but am just saying that 30 deg sure seems odd?

A picture will probably explain better: This picture is not scaled well to what I normally see in real life but it still shows you the idea. The green arrow is pointing to roughly where I would normally initiate the gear cut based on system using gear lever force. The red arrow shows where I would have to initiate the cut if we where using barrel position. You will notice the gear pos volts is a "flat line" in the preload area so we cant get the cut to trigger in the ideal location. As for your "shift times" question, unfortunately there is probably not a typical answer - you will see huge differences between cars, vehicle weight, gearbox type, etc. All I can say is I only have one example of similar cars I have played with using the two methods, if I were to take a guess based on feeling and incomplete data I would say the total shift time is about 25% longer on the car that uses barrel positon.

The PNP link will not take a TC input directly. I just googled the Raspberry Pi amp and most of them appear to be serial/SPI based so they will be no good to you either. You need a 0-5V TC amp to feed into an analog input. You can get these from many vendors, one low cost one that I know works ok is here: https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/amplifier-dsub9-p-129.html

I just done some google. On most BMW's, OBD2 pin 9 is as you say an engine speed signal. That likely would have come from the engine ECU so you have probably lost that. Looking at the help file on your PNP ecu it appears that you should have "Aux 1" available on the expansion connector. You may also have some of the other Aux's available if for instance you no longer use the purge solenoid. You will need to connect your shift light RPM wire to on of these spare Aux outputs and set it up as a tacho output. I think they will be 2 pulses per rev. Edit: Added later; Sorry, replied same time as you Scott. These shift lights appear to me to use a normal "analog" tacho signal - not CAN or K-line. If you look at pin 9 on that wiki link you gave you will see BMW use this pin as a tacho signal.

Hi Mapper, I have some experience with both methods. Strain gauge based cut initiation gives the absolute best result but obviously comes with a price tag. Barrel position cut initiation actually still works pretty reasonable but you need a longer, more noticeable cut event and the actual shift is slower. I guess this more prominent shift cut event may also have traction consequences to consider in some disciplines. The difference is with a strain gauge your cut doesn't initiate until a preset shift force is reached - this preloading removes all mechanical backlash from the gear linkage/barrel/shift forks etc so the gears are basically ready to "pounce" as soon as the torque reduction is activated. With a barrel position based system you initiate the cut basically as soon as movement of the barrel is detected so you are already cutting power when you still have all the backlash to "use up" and the gears havent even thought about starting to move yet...

The log confirms you are still on an old firmware 4.7.1. This is different to the PC software version. Read the help file about firmware update. Also read the release notes since version 4.7.1 and note any important ones(usually highlighted in orange text). One I remember around 4.9.9 is you have to delete all ecu logs before doing the update. You are missing out on many feature enhancements and bug fixes so you should upgrade. Your AFR being off is most likely calibration or wiring related but update your firmware first because there were some bugs with wideband average parameter in earlier versions.

The map you posted shows 4.7.1? If you post a log and your latest .pcl, I will take a quick look to see if I can see your problem. picture share

Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss. These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge. The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time. So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...

If the trigger error only appears during cranking and is showing ok during running then it is probably not too much to worry about. Just re-calibrate the timing and carry on. However if you are still getting a trigger error during running then you will need to look a bit closer at what has caused it. Looking at the very basic 2 + 2 trigger pattern on these, there is not a whole lot that can be set wrong. Are you sure a trigger edge setting hasnt been changed? My only other thought is perhaps something was "wrong" prior to rebuild (like the trigger wheel on backwards) and now it has been put back together correct.

You are on a very old firmware version, 4.7.* According to the help file, the Wideband1 parameter was not logged prior to version 4.9.9. Update to the latest version and you will be good.

I havent thought this logic through in great detail, but this screen shot should give you the basic idea. In this example, Aux 8 will be on when condition 1 or 2 is true. Condition 1 would be the running engine conditions - lets say RPM is >10RPM . Condition 2 will be your shut down timer - When RPM falls below 10, Timer 1 is "activated" by virtual Aux 1 which will then start counting up (to 40sec) in the background, When Aux 8 condition 2 sees the timer count hit 30 seconds it shuts off oil pump. Clear as mud? Hopefully its easier than it sounds on screen... I would try it like this and see if it behaves as expected - the part Im not sure about is the timer might start timing as soon as you turn ignition on (before you start engine), if it does you might need to add another condition to prevent that. how to screenshot on windows

I suggest that you fit a proper gear position sensor (barrel position). I have tried the spring loaded switch type gear levers many years ago and they dont work very well. I built about three versions before giving up. If you had a gear pos sensor then you can control the gear cut from that without any microswitch knob or strain gauge. A poorly setup gear cut system will wear out the drive dogs in a matter of hours so it is in your interest to do it properly. As for the blipper - you cant drive a 16A load directly but with a relay it will be good. Since you need quite fast response and its a big inductive load I would suggest using a solid state relay. I have had good success with the small Hella 4RA 007 865-031, as a bonus they plug straight in to a normal automotive relay socket.

All aux outputs on the Atom are low side drives (i.e. they ground the pin when active). You will have to use a relay.

Under ecu settings>auxiliary outputs>engine fan, have you already tried turning off these 3 "on with AC" settings per my screenshot below? pic host

I think you still need to physically confirm triggers, as far as I can see these dont use the normal Nissan 360 CAS. They do have a CAS but I think it outputs camshaft position (for the VVL) and some sort of sync signal (but I can find no mention of the pattern). Most references I could find online suggest they have the crank trigger on the flywheel (nissans terminology CKP or CKPS) but again no mention of number of teeth or pattern. A good start would be to see if you can find a sensor around the bellhousing area and if so count the number of teeth on the flywheel and its pattern (if all teeth events arent evenly spaced). Then maybe also take the cover off the CAS and give us a photo of the trigger wheel inside.

If you dont mind posting your map and log I will take a quick look to see if I can spot anything.

The most important thing you need to know first is; is your trigger pattern supported? I don't know these engines at all but wikipedia suggests they are VVT so they will probably have some odd trigger pattern. It may match some other Nissan but if the trigger pattern is not supported then you might be in trouble. As for the base map, just use the standard V88 base map that is included in the software. First step is to work down the list of inputs and outputs and configure them to suit your wiring. Next calibrate all sensors and check they are all reading correct. Disable fuel and do trigger cal. From there, most of the basic fuel/ign & comp tables already have sensible enough numbers in them to allow most engines to run so you don't need to think about them much. You would initially only adjust Master fuel number until it runs reasonable. Once you have it running ok then you need to tune every cell/table.

NZEFI has the main features highlighted reasonably well on their webpage and you can see and compare the NZ retail price to the other G4+ models on their site: http://www.nzefi.com/product/link-g4-monsoon-ecu/ The latest PC Link download has a monsoon base map included so you should have a play with that also to ensure it has all features you need. No knock control, traction control or Ethrottle but most other motorsport features are there. Like its bigger brothers, you can do up to 5D fuel & ignition tables. Pin count is fairly limited so make sure you have enough inputs for your application.

Maybe Ross was looking at the wrong .pclr because I don't see the RPM limit or base timing issue either? The short pulse width adder doesn't look correct but I don't think it will have much impact since you have small injectors they wont see much "short pulse width" However, he is right about your charge temp correction. Also something has made your whole fuel table wrong - this should resemble VE if everything is setup right so you should see numbers of about 50-105%, yours only ranges from about 3-17%? Some of that error I think is possibly from your "injector rated fuel pressure" and "base fuel pressure" settings which both seem a bit odd? With this fuel table so far wrong I suspect that your inst. fuel consumption calc will never be correct either. Also, I just noticed Fuel Density and fuel density temp coef are wrong too so I think you are going to have to retune this thing eventually. Sorry I know this doesn't help your dash issue either, just posting for your info.

No you cant really do this, What you need is an analog voltage output and the link ECU's don't have this natively. You could use a PWM signal and use a resistor/capacitor network to smooth it into simulated analog signal but you will need a good understanding of electronics and signals to get that right. I really cant see any reason why you cant connect both the gauge and ecu to the same sensor? Have you tried?

Hi Spyder, I took a brief look over your log, it mostly appears that the engine is running ok. What is the issue you are having? There's a few things I'd change like your TPS appears to be a switch type (or possibly faulty) so you have no acceleration enrichment working. I'd be prepared to build you a map but when working remotely I have to rely on you to get most of the basic fundamentals right such as the trigger Cal and fuel pressure etc. Are you capable of using a timing light etc and checking these basics with some direction from me? where are you in the world?