MagicMike

You could loosen up the WG actuator rod a litte bit to fix that tho..

do I actually got this all going and working. I found the connector from an online, I think from mouser or something and made a cable out of CAT 5. I got the code all going and now I just need to get the wiring in order.
 
 
 
 

Yes, that was one of the first Efi engines I done about 20 years ago when I was a teenager.  Motec M48. Couldn’t get many SR20 parts in those days so had to make throttle bodies, camshafts, dry sump system etc from scratch.  Datsun 510 rally car.
 

The continental Ethanol Content Sensors will read significant lower when low flow goes through the sensor. This means during a WOT run the ethanol content will read significantly lower at high load and rpm than at idle, because the flow in the return line is low. 
I attached a Log to show the problem. With more boost, I see values 20% lower at WOT than at idle.  This is a well-known problem and other ECU manufacturers have an Ethanol Clamp function for a good while.
The Ethanol content does with activated clamp function only update when the Injector Duty Cycle is below a certain level. Once the INJ Duty Cycle is higher than the threshold the ECU takes the last value read below the threshold and update Ethanol content only when InjDC goes below the threshold. So a quite simple function, but with a big need! Please implement it asap. Thank you. 
 

Also, have a watch of Paul Yaw's seminar on this subject.  It can be caused by a range of factors, such as "non-rubber" fuel lines etc, but quite often it is just resonance based.  If it is particularly bad at certain RPM's you can often tune that out by changing the length of hose to the FRP reference port. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QF5BmQtXZA&t=409s
 
 

I took the laptop down to the shed last night, worked straight up, no mess no fuss.

Yes, I think this is needed too and I have put it on the wish list.

Wondering if it is possible to have the mixture map data filtered by the window selected by the time plot range?
As in, if I have a section of log I want to zero in on, and be able to run only that section through the mixture map, similar to how the XY plots work?

Wondering if it is possible to have the mixture map data filtered by the window selected by the time plot range?
As in, if I have a section of log I want to zero in on, and be able to run only that section through the mixture map, similar to how the XY plots work?

It would be nice if these base tables could self populate whilst performing a known "safe" run to fill in the base tables with a background noise level. Then simply add the 10-20% to those values
the table could average over a few pulls if need be.

Just played with this, have updated V44 output baud rate to 115200 and changed connection to match and now have practically 0 lag between input and display.  Very very happy boy. Now to play with some display config screens. 

Would expect com 3 would be the right one to use as mine uses com 4. I’ll check my settings and share tonight 

I solved the problem.
The cam sensors started to bleed through +12 to the signal wire when they got warm. I changed the supply to +5V and everything seems to be working fine now =).
everywhere I looked the sensors should be  +12v, but that was obviously wrong. Don't believe everything on the internet, haha.
Big thanks for the support!
 
 

Hi All,
The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's.  It is now compatible.
For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/
In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features.  Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc.  The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10.  One example below.
Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months.  Right now it will work in the Blue Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins & Force.  It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's.
Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter".   Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post.
 
 
Edit 18 Jan 2020;
Have added a zip folder with an example configuration for CAN connection using the generic USB or Bluetooth CAN Adapters (see realdash website for supported adapters).  This config also includes an example of how to send an onscreen button press to the ECU.
 
RealDash.pdf
 
Realdash CAN example.zip

Your map has 3 CAN channels set up,  2 Ecotron and 1 something else?  Do you have a termination resistor and the far end of the bus? 
I notice the Ecotron uses extended ID's while the other uses an 11bit ID, I have never seen both types used together before so I'm not sure if that is acceptable practice or not - Im not sure how nicely they will play together...  Can you temporarily turn off channel 1 and see if your Lambdas keep working then?

Hi
It would be useful in the Triggers tab in Runtime Values to show whether the Ignition and Injection outputs are firing.
For example -
Ignition 1 - Not Active / Attempting to Start / Running
Injector 1 - Pre-crank Prime / Not active / Attempting to start / Running

so that didnt work! lol
got an airbox from a Ford 2L, ecotech, which has quietened then intake noise considerably. now just the SC whine to go

My suggestion is to start with a reasonably realistic guess for the charge temp table.  Copy the table from the Monsoon base map is a good starting point for most common engines.
Get one area of your VE table dialed in reasonably close and flat so you can then do the charge cooling coeffiec test and dial that in (injector data needs to be good for this test to work, if you dont have good injector data then I suggest just sticking with 10deg C).
Next fully calibrate your VE table.  Once you have the VE table close you can check a few points in your charge temp table and tweak that so the lambda does not vary with varying air temp (constant water temp).  I normally do this by blocking intercooler or directing hot air in to the intake.  If the charge temp table needed significant adjustment from what you originally had then you may need to re fine-tune the VE table again.
 
When you turn on multi-fuel you will have two charge cooling coeff settings (as well as all the other fuel other properties such as density etc), one for each fuel.  

+3
either via a "save all" button or by electing a Logs folder where they are all saved automagically.

Ok so I feel like an idiot but at least I've found the problem... 
Anyway thanks a lot for your input guys!
 

The OP has a Thunder which has some high speed DI's capable of ABS sensor frequencies.

Another thing which I would like is a 3D Accel Cold correction table so it can be spanned with Engine running time or charge temperatur or a modelled intake manifold temp. 
The reason is simple. Just after cold startup, it needs much more accel enrichment, than after 1-3min running time of the engine.  From a tuning perspective, you need to add a lot of accel enrichment just after the start of the engine so throttle response is good. But after 1-3min running ECT is still similar, but manifold ports have got some temp into it. Now the big Accel enrichment just flushes the cylinders and oil film down.  

ECU built in trigger pull up is 4.7K, so not strong enough for what the GS1005 wants.

You need the DI pull-up resistor turned on for the skyline VSS as far as I know.
Do you reckon that "bounce" in the RPM could be caused by say the drive dog backlash or something else in the driveline?  It could be trigger as you suspect but its just wierd that it seems to be associated with over-run conditions, I cant quite make the logical link between the trigger and over-run...
Having said that, I had never heard of the "High Octane trigger kit" so just googled it, there is potentially a problem with it depending on how accurately their picture matches the actual kit you got.  Their picture shows it is using a ZF/Cherry GS1005 sensor but it doesnt look like they have wired in the extra pull-up resistor these sensors require.  These sensors get lazy without the manufacturer recommended pull-up.
So can you confirm:
Is the crank sensor a GS1005 (usually identifiable as red aluminium body with M12 thread)? Does it have a pull-up resistor in the wiring or connector etc? (maybe under heat shrink etc)? Is it powered by 12V?
 

+ 1
 
Was surprised it didn't already do this.