Confused

Hi All,
The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update.  But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now.
FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension.  G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx.
Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share.
 
1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf

Would it be possible to have an option for the the mixture map function to take into account correction made from closed loop lamda?  I like the idea of having CLL running as an added safety margin when road tuning and it would be good if the mixture map could look at what corrections are are being made to make permanent changes to the fuel map.

I have ran into a few cars in which the factory ECU controls the output of the alternator. I've fiddled around with a few tables to get some control but, would always fall short of what's really needed. I think i'm missing some sort of feedback. I would like to see a dedicated control strategy for alternator control.

Hello,
Did some testing, results are below.
 
Pump:
Any pump CWA50, CWA200 or CWA400 would work with these settings.
We use CWA200.
Wiring:
1 - wired 12V from the PMU16, 25A channel.
2 - wired Aux high state signal.
3 - wired to ecu signal gnd. 
4 - simple chassis GND.
 
ECU settings:


50% on cranking is for waking up the pump.
After that, You can use higher values then 50%.
If your idle is lower then 1000 RPM, adjust the PWM table axis and values to suit your application.
Results:

Our race car working temperature is 70 C.
 
In my case You can see that pump is working very slowly till 50 C. It's because I need to warm the coolant up as fast as I can.
If You change Aux PWM table values, You could get more linear interpolation.
Last chart shows how output current is ramping up as coolant temp warming up.
p.s: I have wired coolant pressure sensor. On full power pump is making 0.7 bar of water pressure in the system.
 
These settings are good starting point.


Thank You.

A little update.  This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off.  
I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred.  In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out.  
I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start.  Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment.  This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment?  so I copied my values from the cells where the car was idle'ing fine but no change to the dying at 180degrees ECT.  This didn't make complete sense bc the car was dying rich and copying over cells from the warm-up map would mean it'd be adding fuel.
I was poking around in my fan settings and I that I had them set at 180 degrees (which is relatively low but I run a single 10" fan and I give it a little bit of a head start).  I adjusted the engine fan activation temp up to 190d and the going-rich and dying out followed the 190d temperatures I set the fans to.  What was strange the Link has Fan #1, Fan #2, and Fan #3.  While OEM only has Fan #1 and #2 but the car would die even if Fan #3 was trigger by the ECT rising.
Did a little poking around, unplugged the fan, and the go rich and dying continued. Back in the PCLink Software (embarrassingly, right in front of my face) my Idle Gain Trim was set to 2ms for the engine fan.  The fan activation temp would activate the fan and the Idle Gain would add 2ms of additional fuel, run my mixture rich and it'd kill the engine.  
I set the idle gain trim to zero and the engine idles like you'd expect.  

Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.

Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.

I'm running a CWA50 in my car as a chargecooler pump, so the flow varies based on engine RPM and IAT.
Here's my configuration:


 

Are you definitely sure on this, specifically on the Evo 1-3 Plug-in?
Because, I too have seen the posts @Tom_s_e3 is referring to, that states this isn't possible due to the ECU Hold Power circuitry on the bottom board.
I'd like a definitive answer too, as I would like to also utilise sequential ignition on my Evo 1-3 Plug-in.

Pin 4 is on the left, pin 1 on the right.  
Pin 4 is the main power ground so needs to be decent sized wire.  Pin 2 is secondary ground so can be smaller.  Ground both to cyl head.
Pin 3 is the ign signal from ECU.
Pin 1 is +12V, again needs to be decent wire.  
Dont give these too much dwell, they pull about 16A at 2.5ms, I usually stick around 1.8ms which is about 8A.
 

Options -> Connection... -> Connection Mode = Auto
 

On the Preferences tab, you can also set it to enter fullscreen mode automatically, if that's of any help too!

Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg.  Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop.
Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high.
You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.

Wondering if it is possible to have the mixture map data filtered by the window selected by the time plot range?
As in, if I have a section of log I want to zero in on, and be able to run only that section through the mixture map, similar to how the XY plots work?

Hi, 

Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally.
This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. 
However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values.
I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results.
For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. 
If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. 
Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from.



We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40)
= 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5

= 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. 

Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value.

If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this:



If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update:
We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44)
= 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75

= 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted.

On the other hand...

If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add.

Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. 

So:
Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875
Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875
Top Right Cell:   (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125
Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75


= 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. 

We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good!  
(The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example)
So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values.

Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples.

And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging.

So - that's my Friday night suggestion. 
Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.

 
 

You'd not get the trimming, but my initial thoughts is that you could potentially set one output up as a GP PWM output, with a 3D table. You could use this as your low pressure WGDC table, and then use specific WGDC tables, trims etc to tweak your high pressure accordingly.

+4 
I'd like to change the default save folder to my Dropbox folder, so as soon as I get within range of wireless it'll automatically back it up, and I can then view it on another machine with a better display.