03 350Z - First tune from a first timer

[Adamw]

Most of that sounds ok.

There is no injector flow setting in traditional.  Just adjust the master fuel and/or master fuel trim until the AFR is somewhere close to target, do this initially at idle to get it to run, but then when it is close enough to drive gently, then adjust it again to get the lambda on target at medium RPM, medium load.  This 2nd adjustment will likely throw idle mixture out but it should give you decent mixture under most other conditions. Then the fuel map will likely need some tweaks in areas where the lambda drifts off target, especially idle areas probably.  

Quick tune probably wont do a great job on the road.  One option for road tuning is the mixture map function, this is where you log a drive and then use the log afterwards to generate a correction to the main fuel table based on how far the measured lambda was from target.  The other method would be to enable CLL and the long term trim.  The long term trim table will be populated over time with how much correction the CLL is applying to keep lambda on target.  After driving for some time you can then correct the main fuel table based on the stored values in the long term trim table.

I have no experience with boosted VQ's so cant offer much advice for the ignition timing, but most engines on petrol if you start by pulling 1.5deg out per 1 psi (7kpa) boost from the NA timing you will have a safe starting point.  There are exceptions to that trend though, so you need to be alert for signs of knock.  With E85 you should be very safe but just tread carefully.  

[Timboj]

Thanks @Adamw. Good advice as always, particularly the timing. Good place to start.

Just on these last two points:

• Do I leave coil dwell times at stock values?
• Without knowing my Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff, is 10C fine to leave until it's dynoed?

Was that a yes to both until it goes to the tuner?

[Adamw]

Yes dwell would remain the same.  

There is no charge cooling coef in traditional mode.  

[Timboj]

Cheers. I was thinking I'd take the opportunity to switch to modelled from traditional 

[Timboj]

Can you run a modelled fuel equation without a fuel temp sensor? My car didn't come with one stock.

I plan on installing a flex fuel sensor at some point; can you derive fuel temp from this signal using math block?

[Timboj]

@Adamw Btw thanks for the previous advice. Just fired it up for the first time. After a quick play with the fuel pressure, idle control and fuel table she's purring like a kitten.

I put brand new cam phasers in just to be sure and they're behaving pretty much exactly the same (several times out from target) so PID tuning looks to be the only solution.

[dx4picco]

6 hours ago, Timboj said:

Can you run a modelled fuel equation without a fuel temp sensor? My car didn't come with one stock.

I plan on installing a flex fuel sensor at some point; can you derive fuel temp from this signal using math block?

Yes it will work without fuel temp sensor. 

If you plug a flex sensor then ecu will automatically use it, no need of math block

[Timboj]

Just wiring in the flex sensor now. Given it runs on 12v is it okay to splice the sensor ground into an existing sensor ground wire that has a 5v sensor?

[Adamw]

yes that is fine.  

[Timboj]

Hi guys, I've moved to a modelled fuel equation mode in prep for tuning after installing the SC. A full tank of "E85" is returning 69.5% on my sensor so I'll call it E70. After some googling and extrapolation, I was hoping you could confirm if these figures are correct/close enough?

[Adamw]

Density doesnt look right, the other 2 are in the ball park.

Density for petrol is generally around 0.745, pure ethanol is around 0.789, so you should be 70% of the way between those two.  So about 0.776 by my count.

[Timboj]

Thanks Adam. Yep I've gone in the complete other direction.

[Timboj]

Hi guys, everything has been going pretty nicely since the first tune, post SC install, except that the HKS restrictor was a touch too safe for what the stock engine is capable of. I've opened it up a touch with a die grinder and I'm booked in for a dyno session this week.

I'm running E80 so I know I've got some decent safety margins for knock. I've taken it out for increasingly harder runs to see how it's all behaving. I've tried a few different approaches to the knock detection settings, including switching to Normalised Ign a few days ago to address what appeared to be false positives (according to the tuner). I've been playing around with sensitivity, but I think my most recent settings are picking up false positives again.

Just wondering if you can take a look at the last log and shed some light on the most recent results. Appreciating I'll likely need the tuner to recalibrate the settings.

Log - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LJQp79CO-KblylOJXNo6MDekQwXeq8lv/view?usp=sharing

 

[Adamw]

Your knock setup looks not bad.  I doubt you have knock with E80 and the timing you have in there.  You could experiment with frequency a bit to see if it reduces the false posatives.  Try 6, 7 & 8Khz.  I would also move the window start to 20 so its not catching the piston slap right at TDC.  

[Timboj]

Thanks, as always, Adam. That cleaned it right up. Only one detection on a relatively hard run.

 

Map- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-AQ6ynj1ocskjeWE_ycf8-yV4_7Svop5/view?usp=sharing

Log - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sG531Av9znKDvAhYPU1Gma2pByZ6k5Qq/view?usp=sharing

 

Would you mind explaining for me what makes this one instance of detected knock stand out from the rest of the knock levels detected, particular given it wasn't the peak level for that cylinder or other cylinders, and it was below threshold? Just trying to wrap my head around it.

[Timboj]

Hi guys I'm looking for some advice on tuning the cold start. I'm on E85 so I appreciate I have to compromise on cold start cranking, but was hoping there's opportunity for improvement.

Currently I let it crank for about two seconds. Pause for a second or two and then crank again. It will usually start the second crank if I leave it for longer BUT it'll sputter for a moment and either pick up or die. Third time will always fire up.

I know I can just dump more fuel in to promote vapour but I don't want to flood the cylinders either.

Edit: Warm/hot start is pretty much perfect.

Crank settings:

First crank prime = 200%

 

Throwing in warm up enrichment for good measure:

 

[koracing]

Does it start any better with 5-10% throttle while cranking cold?  That's an awful lot of prime pulse cold - remember that's not a percentage map, but a milliseconds map.

[Timboj]

@koracing Thanks. Tried at 10% throttle today and didn't make any difference.

Re your second point, are you referring to the pre-crank prime map?