Adamw

So can you see any missing teeth on that crank wheel?

Does Lambda 1 status and Lambda 1 Error report any errors? Is Lambda 1 temp around 780°C?

Default EJ20 AVCS values in G4+:

That sounds a bit borderline considering a multimeter has quite a low update rate. Just reading back at some of your earlier posts in this thread, you mentioned you had done a test by grounding pin 16 with a bit of welding wire or similar - did the ecu stay connected when cranking when you done that?

How come the picture has HT leads to the spark plugs? Were the coils changed later? Can you give us a picture of the trigger wheel.

There should be no dependence on the dash being present. The only 2 connections to the dash are tacho from ecu to dash, and speed signal from dash to ecu. Neither should cause a misfire. I would suggest doing a short PC log with the engine running and unplug the dash so we can see what else changes in the ecu when you do that.

The map doesnt match the log so its a bit hard to tell without the correct data. Your VE is mostly exaggerated around idle and cruise, at WOT it is possibly a little high, but not far off normal. So that would usually be deadtime related as deadtime error has a larger effect when PW is shorter. Some other things to fix: Injector deadtime table has MAP on the Y axis, it likely should be differential fuel pressure. Fuel system type is set to FP Sensor, but there is no fuel pressure sensor assigned. Many multifuel settings are wrong, fuel properties, injector flow rate, lambda target 2, multifuel blend ratio table. IAT fuel trim should be disabled for modelled mode. Accel fuel sense table is referencing TPS, it should generally be RPM as you need less enrichment at higher RPM. Under power you have a large variation in lambda between banks. Lambda 2 is much leaner than lambda 1.

The trigger scope shows the crank wheel is not 36-1. The scope hasnt captured two cam revolutions so its a bit hard to tell confidently what it has, but it looks almost like it does still have 36 teeth, but just none missing? I guess it could be 60-2, but the compression pulses look like they are roughly 18teeth apart which suggests it is more like 36 teeth. Is the trigger wheel on the front of the engine or internal?

Confirm if that is the issue first. Will need to do a bit more digging to suggest the best solution. For example if the fuel pump is still supplied by the ignition switch it would probably be best to change the fuel pump supply which will take a lot of load off that circuit - But that may already done for all I know. So at this stage Im still trying to confirm if your issue is on the triggering side of the ECCS relay or on the high power side or something like a ground issue. I dont remember what the grounding scheme is like on the GTR but generally older Nissans main ground point is on the engine as some devices including the CAS and ignitor ground through their body/mounting. Changing to batt -ve wouldnt be recommended if this is the case.

You would just need to change the tooth count setting to 12 and the missing teeth setting to 1, then re-set base timing. Why would you change from the 36-2 though?

Pin 45 is from the ignition switch, it should show close to battery voltage whenever the ignition switch is on. If it drops below about 7.5V the ECCS relay will drop out. Note on a BNR32 this wire also supplies the fuel pump, oxy probes, idle valve, AC relay, boost valve & EGT sensor, so it is a fairly overloaded circuit, not uncommon to see low voltage on it as the ignition switch wears and all the connections along the way get more resistance with age. Should be measuring between ground and 45.

You've got antilag and cyclic idle active all the time so I would be leaning towards that before seeing the log. Gearshift control and launch have some pretty odd settings also, so I would turn those off for now.

Ok, please give us a short PC log of it cranking and also do a trigger scope capture while cranking.

I would leave the E-throttle feedforward at zero for now, zero works ok for most. Your oscillation problem looks like too much proportional gain. Drop that to 5.5 or 6.0 to see if it settles down. Your ethanol sensor DI needs to be changed to rising active edge. All your multifuel settings are wrong, including lambda target 2, fuel properties, injector size, etc. IAT fuel trim should be turned off. VVT needs to have the cam angle test calibration run. Do you still have the original problem with the tacho/dash/fans not working? This suggests the CAN bus is not working.