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  1. Today
  2. Nettlez

    Stalling Issue

    I have got an issue where the engine is stalling when coming to a junction, slow small drop in rpm and the engine just cuts out, it seems better when cold. The map is from my old engine which was a 2.8 m50 engine, this is now a forged 3.15 m50 engine with mainly a different intake cam, lower compression ratio and slightly bigger turbo I have tried upping the anti stall gain table for when hot considerably but no joy, I have also upped the other two idle gain tables a little but still no joy Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am currently trying to run the engine in as its a fresh build but this is making life difficult Here's the link to the log http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=02198640419418476795 Current Map.pclr
  3. Hi all, Just wondering if anyone had installed/configured any anti theft or additional security measures using the Link ecu, my car is a road going car so want to add a few additional layers of security. I am thinking perhaps about wiring in a toggle switch to one of the inputs and then hiding it somewhere under the dash so that for the fuel pump to prime (or maybe even to turn the ECU on) the toggle switch would need to be on. Just wondering if anyone had configured anything?
  4. Little update regarding the Hella SSR relay. It still gets very hot, and after a while, it wont output full voltage... I believe I must look for something else... I just wired a normal relay so SSR relay get bypassed and pump get full voltage at about 35% injector dutycycle... Have anyone tried the AC Delco/GM fan controller?
  5. Looking for recommendations for shift lights? Brands types etc. Will be wired directly to my ecu. Also im thinking of running an oil temp sensor to my link ecu as my engine doesn't have one from factory. Currently have an innovate mtxd oil temp and pressure gauge. Could i possible use both sensors from that gauge and do away with the actual gauge part itself?
  6. So after reading this, has anyone managed to find a solid answer on a good tablet to use for this? Im thinking of doing this for when i go to the drags so i have everything right in front of me (pnp 2jz supra ecu)
  7. That lean spike is over a 200ms time frame. Just saying.......
  8. Just been out again, logging seems to be ok, looks like all of the previous times I have logged data I have simply hit record and put the tablet down on the passenger seat, seems to keep logging ok even if the screen turns off after a couple of minutes which is good. Recorded 3 logs, happy to find that fueling is on average 0.1 AFR to target, always satisfying when my AEM gauge is showing 14.7:1 when on cruise without the closed loop lambda settings running Now just need to find a way to log knock levels without turning on knock control, but I guess that's for another day!
  9. I had the same thought, especially when you take into consideration the typical time offset of the wideband reading compared to the other logged values
  10. Just use the reload function in PC Link or on the hand controller and it will be set back to the factory defaults.
  11. This is a new install. Everything is working fine just that ecu hold power would be intermittent causing 2.5k idle when idle valve would not return to their position. Most of the time it is good. I dont think it is backfeeding as show in log file ecu hold power remains active. Ecu is holding the main relay ON. I will email you the tune file in a while.
  12. Hello all In my electronic throttle table, 0% FP (foot pedal position) at idle says throttle position should be 5.5% but I’ve noticed hot idle with laptop connected its showing 4.5% throttle position not 5.5% like in the table, why is this ?
  13. You probably wont need a timing light to get it running, but it definitely needs to be checked shortly after it is running/at least before driving. Master fuel can just be adjusted by "feel" initially. If it struggles to start or fires then quickly dies out there is probably not enough fuel. If it starts but runs real lumpy/black smoke etc then probably too much fuel. Dwell times for the R8 coils you can copy from our Audi TT base map as a close starting point. No the base map should have the correct trigger settings in it already. I think you will get enough help here. Since you have a single throttle rather than ITB's you will probably want to change to a MAP based fuel table eventually but get it running first and we can talk you through that later.
  14. Hi- Could it be as you are off throttle pulling high vacuum you are accessing points in your fuel map that are lean ? Then as you go to full throttle again you get a resultant lean spike ? Just a thought .
  15. Is this just a new install or has it previously worked fine a just recently started acting up? The ECU staying partially powered up would typically indicate an aux output is back feeding. Besides the stepper motor, what else is connected to aux outputs?
  16. i have ecu hold power problem with storm black on evo7. ecu hold power is use for the evo7 idle function. when it is working fine idle rpm is good after engine restart. when it is not working ecu hold power remain active for more than 15sec, idle valve rattling sound for a long time, after engine restart rpm goes up to 2.5k as idle valve remains large opening. attached are logs for when it happens ecu hold power good.llg ecu hold power no good.llg
  17. Can anyone tell me were i can find a base map for a rb25det or someone who can point me in the right direction Rb20det,390cc injectors,25det turbo currently running a 25det ecu
  18. Sorry. Did a firmware update and now it has connection. Cheers Cam.
  19. Can anyone help with this error message? Error Ids not found in database: 1093 G4+ Atom. This unit was repaired over a year ago from a faulty usb chip. I have tried several different usb cords. Com port 4 according to device manager. Cheers Cam.
  20. Hi all, I’m on the home stretch of my single turbo conversion. I hope this post will serve as a second source of information and troubleshooting guide for myself and possibly others. I’m sure there are things I can learn from you guys who have done this before. Base Map: Now when I load the R32 GTR basemap and have yet to change anything (updated firmware, calibrated MAP and TPS). Where should I start in terms of correcting necessary settings on PCLink. Any help is greatly appreciated. I’m a complete beginner on this ECU, or any ECU in fact. But the goal is to get the car started and idling well. From what I’ve read on the forum, set injector master pulse(4ms?)(if lean increase PW, if rich lower PW) set injector dead times as per the fuel pressure. In this case 30 advised by NZEFI. How about dwell time? I will be using R8 coils (see part below) What about timing? Given my mechanical timing components are installed properly, how is timing set on the ecu? Will I need a timing light as soon as it’s running? Lastly, will I have to do this? It says: “In your trigger settings, Set engine type to RB26, set widest slot to 24deg, then set test ECCS sync to off (this must be done last). Do a store, then crank it again and tell us if it now shows RPM. All the other stuff is irrelevant for now. The GTR doesnt have an oil pressure sensor connected to the ECU, the sensor is connected to the gauge in the dash only. Your air temp sensor is connected to AN Temp 2, so turn AN Temp 3 off and put the below setings in AN Temp 2. The AN Volt 6 error is because the oxygen sensor wont output voltage until it is warmed up. We can change the fault setting so that doesnt report an error later.” Anyways, there’s a bit more things to button up but I want to have a solid idea when I’m ready to turn the engine over. Should I subscribe for the gold membership at HPAcademy or I can get by first start/idle with the Link forum? Parts: ECU – GTRLINK - #NGTR+ Using map sensor source from old PCV valve using a 4mm to ¼” BSP fitting. http://dealers.linkecu.com/NGTRPlus Manifold – DocRace Single scroll modified w/ an extra vband flange for a second wastegate https://docrace.com/collections/nissan/products/rbx-single-scroll-topmount Turbo – 6266 Gen 1 PTE ball bearing w/ an upgraded Gen 2 compressor wheel. “P/S” compressor housing 4” inlet, 2.5” outlet with the anti-surge design. 3AN oil feed (No restrictor as recommended size is 4 an, and I believe there is an orifice within the centering mechanism; but regardless Precision advises against an oil feed restrictor), 10 AN drain utilizing the old drain line. https://www.realstreetperformance.com/precision-turbo-gen-2-6266-sp-cover.html Wastegate – 46mm Precision EWG w/ 17 psi springs, 46mm Tial EWG w/ 17psi springs https://shop.precisionturbo.net/pw46-46mm-wastegate | BOV – Tial Q 50mm BOV w/ 11 psi springs http://www.tialsport.com/index.php/tial-products/bovs/46-tialbvq Downpipe – Custom 3” downpipe IC piping – Custom 3” IC piping with charge pipe from 2.5” turbo outlet -> 3” Wideband – AEM 30-4110. 0-5v value? High? Low? Lambda? (Include values and data). Will be wired to pin 29 aka front oxygen sensor). https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/digital-wideband-uego-afr-gauge/digital-wideband-uego-afr-gauge Injectors – NZEFI 1000cc/min direct fit R32-R34 GTR Bosch ev14 injectors + injector ballast delete. Flow rate? Dead times? Pulse width? (include data) http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ Fuel – Walbro 450 lph, new fuel pump strainer, new fuel filter https://www.briantooleyracing.com/walbro-450lph-high-performance-in-tank-e85-fuel-f90000274.html Ignition coils – R8 ignition coils (06E905115E). (Dwell time?) (Does anyone have dwell time data for R8 coils?) How is this even set? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Audi-06E905115E-Ignition-Coil/dp/B00NUB40RK Spark Plugs – NGK 4644 BKR7E V-Power Plug (figure out appropriate gap) https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9349 FPR – TurboSmart 1200. 6an to 8mm lines. (Adjust to 43.5 psi base pressure) http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Fuel-Pressure-Regulators/FPR1200-2017-Black.html MAC 3 Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Valve DC12V 5.4W 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA - Boost solenoid – MAC 3 port solenoid. 1(Normally Closed), 2(Common), 3(Normally Open). Setup: Top port(s) of WG are vented to atmosphere, Bottom port of WG are tee’d into one line that goes to PORT 2 of solenoid, Port 3 of Solenoid comes from turbo vac source, port 1 is vented to atmosphere. (polarity is not sensitive, wired into factory 2 pin connector) Timing – the timing belt was recently changed before I purchased the car. The slack is just right and seems to follow the instruction manual. I lined up the notches on the intake and exhaust cam and the balancer against the backplate covers and TDC seems to line up with all the marks (belt marks included) - Do I need to set timing in the ECU config? Or is syncing the timing once the car is able to idle? Clutch – Nismo super coppermix twin plate (push style) to hold for 670 ps. https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-super-coppermix-twin-plate-clutch-kit-bnr32-r32-r33.html Exhaust – no name catback with a test pipe (cat delete) and resonator delete. IC – stock intercooler, paint stripped, and oil residue inside core cleaned by sloshing gasoline inside. Battery – Relocated in the boot via 1 AWG wire, 200Amp circuit breaker 4-5" from positive terminal. Catchcan – rb26 valve cover push on fittings, 10 AN lines to a dual baffle vented catch can. To be changed/upgraded: IAT fast response sensor, Aluminum radiator Cheers
  21. I think you mainly use Factory wiring with the single knock wire to the Bosch which other side should be wired to any sensor ground.
  22. Yesterday
  23. gtihk

    Link Force GDI

    May I know the Maximum current draw on Pins A1 and A5 on the Link Force GDI ECU please?
  24. It doesn't need to go near the load. It is protecting the switch contacts so closer to the relay is better.
  25. How close are you guys putting the flyback diode to the load? Does it matter how close it is to the load.
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