All Activity

Can some one post what are the default pid values for this or the intake only ecus please?

Nice to meet you. I am a newbie who recently installed LINK ECU. I am having trouble reading the cooling water temperature. The water temperature sensor is a genuine 180SX. As you can see in the picture, the analog temp is always 4.96v. （IAT sensor is not currently connected) The sensor has been inspected on its own and the resistance value is normal and seems to be fine. I have inspected the wiring and there is no 5v voltage at the sensor connector, and furthermore, there seems to be no 5v output from terminal 18 (AN temp1) on the ECU. I don't know if this is an incorrect ECU setting or if the ECU itself is malfunctioning. Can anyone please help me with this? I'm using translation software so the text may be strange. This is a question from Japan.

Maybe should I run a quick tune first? Maybe that's why my lambda target table 2 isn't correct?

This post here might help you better understand injection timing on a rotary: FWIW, I'm running the 130* injector timing figure from the Link S6/S7/S8 RX7 base maps in my single turbo 13B-REW FD and it's perfectly happy with that.

Hello Adam, thanks i'll have a look when i get time.

hey Adam thanks for replying, ok so I left my e-throttle feedforward at zero for now. Set my Ethanol sensor DI to rising active edge IAT fuel trim turned off, and VVT to the cam angle test calibration run. Why are my multifuel settings are wrong? I didn't even touched them. I thought the ECU would be plug and play after installing the necessary info as lambda and ethanol for example. I set my injector size to 287cc at 3bar which is OEM.. The size of my log file is too big so here's the google drive link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TPZYa3JY5sYiqp0JcMKrMV0k__y8h-ym/view?usp=sharing Oh and by the way the fan turning on by itself and lights on issue is gone, I don't have to worry about this anymore, it's just the tuning takes much more time. When I see the fuel table it makes me scared lmao. Do you think I can drive with this configuration for now just to take some logs? For the moment I am just parked and I don't move the car, just start and give some revs.

Having an issue with my lambda sensor... this is a Link Lambda on a Link G4+ ECU. When I start the car cold and read the numbers in laptop it is spot on with a secondary sensor I have - reading 0.95 <-> 1.05 After a couple of minutes (by which time the car has warmed up a bit) the numbers jump by about 9! So reads 9.95 <-> 10.05 The numbers still move richer and leaner as you'd expect, but they're offset by this large figure. If I stop car and start again, it remains at this high (lean) figure. Given it's worked for a ages and I've not changed the wiring, and it works when it first starts cold, ideas on the cause - what I should check? Or is it goosed? If so, why would it be goosed?

I have tuned the antilag etc off and tried it but still the same, i have tried to capture a log as well, not sure how good it is because i cant leave the engine running to long with the missfire as bad as it is and how rich it is lol Log 2024-04-26 9;25;47 am.llg

Hi guys, Have another question about above set up, has been working fine for a day on the dyno and a track day or so, then all of a sudden the keypad wouldn't power up, I know the output is okay because it shares it with the dash and it works perfect, only way to make it power up again was to unplug and replug the 4 pin DTM on the rear of the keypad?? Any ideas, I changed the CAN ID from 405 to 400 and stored, then changed back to 405 and stored again, and also added a power on delay of 0.2 seconds and now seems to be fine again at the moment, but trying to prevent it happening again Thanks in advance

Off topic but which was is the correct way to wire a radiator fan? 30 batt 87 fan 85 ecu 86 switched 12v Or 30 batt 87 fan 85 switched 12v 86 ecu

How come the picture has HT leads to the spark plugs? Were the coils changed later? Can you give us a picture of the trigger wheel.

coil and engine

in front just behind the belt pulley

There should be no dependence on the dash being present. The only 2 connections to the dash are tacho from ecu to dash, and speed signal from dash to ecu. Neither should cause a misfire. I would suggest doing a short PC log with the engine running and unplug the dash so we can see what else changes in the ecu when you do that.

Im having trouble understanding how to tune injector timing on rotaries. I’ve done as much research as I can and I can’t find all the details I need. I’m aware the end of injection is 180 degrees. However, the Link ecu instructions says to use the start of injection in order for the fuel cut function to operate correctly. On the base map, start of injection is 130 degrees. I’ve checked base maps from other ECU manufacturers and the injector timing are different on almost all of them. I’ve heard people say “Just keep playing with the timing until the engine is at its richest AFR and that’s the ideal timing.” Ok but is that at idle or 1500 RPM or what? I’ve read from other sources that the start of injection on a rotary happens at 440 degrees, yet the Link ECU will only let you set 360 degrees as the highest value. I’ve watched the Haltech rotary tuning video and they say start of injection is 270 degrees from idle to about 4,000 rpm then slowly increase to 330 degrees to redline. I’m in search of some solid advice because my concern is getting false AFR readings as a result of wrong injector timing. Basically fresh air and fuel being sucked into the exhaust then consequently blowing the engine. Thanks in advance.

The map doesnt match the log so its a bit hard to tell without the correct data. Your VE is mostly exaggerated around idle and cruise, at WOT it is possibly a little high, but not far off normal. So that would usually be deadtime related as deadtime error has a larger effect when PW is shorter. Some other things to fix: Injector deadtime table has MAP on the Y axis, it likely should be differential fuel pressure. Fuel system type is set to FP Sensor, but there is no fuel pressure sensor assigned. Many multifuel settings are wrong, fuel properties, injector flow rate, lambda target 2, multifuel blend ratio table. IAT fuel trim should be disabled for modelled mode. Accel fuel sense table is referencing TPS, it should generally be RPM as you need less enrichment at higher RPM. Under power you have a large variation in lambda between banks. Lambda 2 is much leaner than lambda 1.

The trigger scope shows the crank wheel is not 36-1. The scope hasnt captured two cam revolutions so its a bit hard to tell confidently what it has, but it looks almost like it does still have 36 teeth, but just none missing? I guess it could be 60-2, but the compression pulses look like they are roughly 18teeth apart which suggests it is more like 36 teeth. Is the trigger wheel on the front of the engine or internal?

Okay my son is asleep for the night so I won't be able to test any cranking until tomorrow. To your example, my fuel pump is getting 12v triggered from the trunk, it's reloomed but I'm assuming it's the circuit you're referring to. Where would I grab 12v from thats not on the same ignition switch?

Hi, I am currently running a Vipec plugin ecu in my 1996 V1 wrx sti. I have run this ecu in the car over 10 years and all works good. My question relates to the stock dash. I am wanting to remove the stock dash but notice that when the wiring connector at the rear of the dash (the one closest to the right hand door) is unplugged from the dash, the engine begins to misfire at idle. Any advice on what causes this and best way to remove the dash and have no miss? It’s like the ecu is not happy with something, like a missing input. thankyou.

here you go and thank you for your time. Trigger Scope - 2024-04-26 9;28;50 am.llgx Just so you know Adamw the car came to me running and it drove here to me to get tune. However the ecu was password protected so I had to build a new map and loaded into the ecu. I did saved the original map. It runs on the original map but had a drivability issue and the owner wants it retuned!?!?

Hi All, I change the injector flow from stock which is 555cc to 1650cc along with the supply injector data. The injector duty cycle is low, but the VE is pretty high. How should I go about resolving the issue? Thanks https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pRefw0mIlPc0adEi4CKMhYc6IHRdpHSt/view?usp=drive_link log https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JozRoaSWyYbZrSUVDKFqIjDUZWViOU-h/view?usp=drive_link file

Confirm if that is the issue first. Will need to do a bit more digging to suggest the best solution. For example if the fuel pump is still supplied by the ignition switch it would probably be best to change the fuel pump supply which will take a lot of load off that circuit - But that may already done for all I know. So at this stage Im still trying to confirm if your issue is on the triggering side of the ECCS relay or on the high power side or something like a ground issue. I dont remember what the grounding scheme is like on the GTR but generally older Nissans main ground point is on the engine as some devices including the CAS and ignitor ground through their body/mounting. Changing to batt -ve wouldnt be recommended if this is the case.

So I'll retest test with 45 and ground and let you know what it says.. if it's low whats the solution? A new ignition barrel? Also would running all ecu grounds directly to a batt(-) stud help at all?