koracing

In my opinion: absolutely. Modelled fuel has many adavantages down the road if you were to ever change fuel injectors again, use a flex fuel sensor with E85, or for various other reasons. As you said the effort is already going to be there to retune, so head off future work by switching to Modelled now with FP sensor enabled.

Trigger + (positive) crank needs to go to Trig1 at ECU, Trigger + (positive) Cam needs to go to Trigger 2 at ECU. Both triggers' - (negative) and shields can go to sensor ground. Also, in my opinion, if dude-bro doesn't know that a reluctor doesn't get power from the ecu, you may want to find a new wiring guy. PS. I personally never use "ve" at the end of "+" or "-" as the words Positive and Negative already have that at the end. So I read "-ve" as "negative ve". To each their own.

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This is AEM’s can temp gauge output CAN info - I’m sure Adam can help you with this information to put it in the format you would need for the link ecu output stream.

Try turning off transient ignition retard (or check the new version software base map where this is turned off to compare).

You can use nearly any wideband that provides an analog 0-5v signal out or can communicate to the ecu via CAN (like AEM X-series or others). While good, it is not necessary to run the Link CAN lambda.

I would free rev with the datalog running and see if cyl 3 is still a bit higher at no load at that rpm as well. That could certainly indicate a need to reduce the gain on that cylinder. If it’s false knock retarding the timing and adding enrichment in that area typically won’t have much affect. So you can treat it like actual knock and turn on individual cylinder fuel and timing trim tables for that cylinder and add fuel and take out timing in that load and rpm range and see if the knock level improves. If adding 3-4% fuel and subtracting 2-3 deg advance doesn’t improve it then possibly try going the other way on timing a couple degrees and see if it gets worse. Short pulls at low load (or partial dyno pulls if possible) since it is built. I wouldn’t necessarily try that on stock pistons. If adding fuel by itself resolved the higher knock levels then you can surmise there was an airflow imbalance leaning that cylinder out. Keep in mind adding advance on pump gas is potentially very dangerous to the motor, while taking a bit of timing away usually is safe enough as a first try. I wouldn’t necessarily go much more than 2-3 deg either way on an individual cylinder before making a global timing adjustment. Making a global timing change on a dyno would be allow you to see if reducing timing loses power. It should lose power or you had too much to begin with.

While not the right solution, I have also found this quite annoying and have been thinking of setting up a virtual aux output to trigger the clear fault DI function automatically at power up. The downside would be clearing a fault you may be concerned with or want to know, but there may be a way to make sure the internal logger is capturing fault codes to account for this. Also by setting it at startup (engine runtime >1 sec), if a fault occurs while driving it won’t beg cleared until ecu power is cycled. Not perfect I know.

Have you put a timing light on it to see if it's sparking cyl 1 near to the correct timing? What happens if you spray starter fluid or carburetor cleaner into the intake while someone is cranking it over?

Those look like hall effect square wave signals, not reluctor signals (AC). Are you sure that's an unmodified distributor you have in there? Reluctor signals rely on seeing a falling signal that drops below zero volts (to negative voltage). Your signals never go below 0. I would change your triggers to hall effect and see what that does for you.

This was a customer car with a 12 position switch (AEM I think) I remote dyno tuned. We set the swtich to allow it to blend between his minimum (pump gas) boost level and different levels on ethanol depending on switch position. I know this isn't exactly what you were asking to do, but it shows another approach to still get proper ethanol content based boost with multiple switch positions. The reason the switch position are on the x-axis of these boost tables was there wasn't 12 rows available on those tables

I've found that canned cal is pretty close just slighlty off from what the AEM sensor cal and my own various other dyno instruments read. Even with the right cal it's always a good idea to check for offset/drift in the signal of any sensor. I went and reviewd AEM's PSIg SS sensor data and all but the 2000psi sensor seem to show the kpa values starting at 100 instead of 0kpa. A gauge sensor should be relative to BAP so they should all start at zero.

Reluctors should be 2 pins - 1 wire goes to ground/shield, and 1 wire goes to the input signal on the ecu. There should not be any power applied to the reluctors. I'm not really familiar with your particular trigger on the VVT 1jz or what it normally looks like - but it looks like a decent 36-2 signal for trig 1, and the cam trigger looks a bit odd - I mean I know it should rise and then fall, so that looks right, but the noise in between is negative (which I'm unsure if that is normal) and the spike that goes negative on the fall is much higher than the rise. That and it almost looks like 2 rises - one right after it comes back up from the negative spike? It's possible the second rise is too close to the new arming threshold as well. Maybe raise up the arming on Trigger2 to 0.3V at 0 rpm to make sure it only sees the first rise and not the second while cranking.

It might be worth running a trigger scope with 5 of the plugs out and just cyl 1 installed. You will see the crank position slow down on the compression stroke of cyl 1 and from the distance to your sync trigger edge in the scope (number of teeth) it should let you know if you're in the ball park, as well as let you know which tooth offest is really the right direction for syncing sequential injection timing. I know VR6 are typically not equipped with timing marks that are easy to see, being that one is required to look through the transmission inspection hole typically, but a timing light is really what is required to sync timing properly.

It's odd they list the PSI in gauge pressure but the kpa in absolute pressure - this is a gauge pressure sensor after all. I use the same sensor frequently. I would recommend changing your calibration to gauge pressure since that is what the fuel pressure sensor input needs to see the proper pressure in the fuel model. Subtract 100 from your sensor settings in Cal4.

Did you verify the injector 7 injector power trigger does need to be on to provide power to the injectors? If so and you want it to turn on only when the pumps are on (running off of Aux ouptut 4) you can set the output to do the following:

I don't see the Injector 7 output labelled for fuel pump anywhere in the tune that Adam posted up earlier. If you have 12V at the injectors on one side of each plug with the injector 7 output turned off, then leave it off. If you have to set injector 7 output on to trigger a relay to provide the power to one side of each injector connector, then obviously you will need it. Always on with ECU on would seem appropriate if that is how that output is being used.

I'm not sure if it's just me, but I find the help menu pinout diagrams being named using a different convention than the models that are sold somewhat confusing at times when I'm trying to find information for applications I may not be as familiar with. If an ECU is sold as a ST205 unit - if I go to the pinout diagrams I happen to know this is MR2Link V2-3. An ST205 is the chassis code of a 94-99 Celica 3SGTE powered and AWD (also known as a GT-Four). The MR2 with the same engine and wiring pinout would be the SW20 from 1994-1999 (outside of the US). If I wasn't as familiar with 3SGTE applications as I am, I might find this confusing. On Subarus I am much less familiar: if I have a customer with a WRX107X unit - I'm not sure at first glance if I should be looking at a WRX 04 and 07 diagram, or WRX (7-9) unit. Similarly WRX6X unit, and the WRX2X. Even a sentence once you click on a pinout diagram listing the exact plug-in model sold that the diagram applies to would potentially be useful, if not a complete model list of the original vehicles that share a particular pinout.

The MAC valve should have pretty audible clicking at 20-32Hz and 20-65% duty cycle. 400Hz would unlikley make any noise at all... Something doesn't seem right there.

It is possible to run the ecu and engine without the ecu having any control of the pump. You do lose the option to prime and control when the pump is on obviously. At the most basic level, the ecu will do things if it sees trigger signal inputs that the engine is turning and that matches up with the trigger input settings in the ecu. It does not necessarily require more than that to operate injectors and ignition components.

You have a Link expansion harness? The wire colors are: 1. Green 2. Red 3. Grey 4. Brown 5. White 6. Blue 7. Yellow 8. Orange I think your WRX6X expansion connector 1 is: It's not possible to set Lambda 1 input in the software to AN Temp 2 (this is not the same as AN Volt 2) - but it would be simpler to go to AN Volt 5 or 6 (ANV5 being the white wire in the expansion would be white wire to white wire). The brown wire must go to the Green wire or Ground.

Are you sure you're connecting the correct analog output wire to the ecu? I'm not sure what you would see if you connected the blue wire for example, or if you mixed up the brown and white wires. The white wire needs to be connected to the analog + input and brown to sensor ground. I've installed several of these gauges and never had an issue with the analog input to the ecu. Regarding your CAN connection: the Link ecu has a 120ohm resistor at it's end, and at the wideband sensor end you will need to add another near the end of the connection at the gauge. Neither of the CANPCB cable or the CANF cable have any terminating resistors.

Can you run two pumps this way - 2 relays? It seems to me that the simple solution would be to trigger each of the pumps separately, with the down side being that it ties up several outputs. Usually it's not necessary to run 3 pumps at idle anyway. The lift pump and one in the surge tank would seem to be more than enough for low injector duty cycle needs, and then stage the 2nd surge tank pump to come on above XX% injector duty cycle (with a hysteresis value like back off blow xx-5% duty cycle). Conversely, if you can trigger one relay fine - use the output of that relay to provide the positive trigger to the other relays and you are back to one output being used.

The DI input for start position needs to see 12v when the starter is engaged to function. You can connect from your start switch output to that input wire, or like Adam said you can instead keep the pre-crank prime to be at key-on instead of start position, but that means you are only getting that prime right when the ecu turns on.

What part of the world are you located in?